Food Culture in Japan MICHAEL ASHKENAZI JEANNE JACOB GREENWOOD PRESS Food Culture in Japan Cartography by Bookcomp, Inc. Food Culture in Japan MICHAEL ASHKENAZI AND JEANNE JACOB Food Culture around the World Ken Albala, Series Editor GREENWOOD PRESS Westport, Connecticut . London Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Ashkenazi, Michael. Food culture in Japan / Michael Ashkenazi and Jeanne Jacob. p. cm. — (Food culture around the world, 1545–2638) Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 0–313–32438–7 (alk. paper) 1. Cookery, Japanese. 2. Food habits—Japan. I. Jacob, Jeanne. II. Title. III. Series. TX724.5.J3A88 2003 394.1Ј0952—dc22 2003049317 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data is available. Copyright © 2003 by Michael Ashkenazi and Jeanne Jacob All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced, by any process or technique, without the express written consent of the publisher. Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 2003049317 ISBN: 0–313–32438–7 ISSN: 1545–2638 First published in 2003 Greenwood Press, 88 Post Road West, Westport, CT 06881 An imprint of Greenwood Publishing Group, Inc. www.greenwood.com Printed in the United States of America The paper used in this book complies with the Permanent Paper Standard issued by the National Information Standards Organization (Z39.48–1984). 10987654321 Illustrations by J. Susan Cole Stone. The publisher has done its best to make sure the instructions and/or recipes in this book are correct. However, users should apply judgment and experience when preparing recipes, especially parents and teachers working with young people. The publisher ac- cepts no responsibility for the outcome of any recipe included in this volume. In memory of Okuyama Shunzô, friend, mentor, philosopher, and gourmet. Contents Preface ix Acknowledgments xv Timeline xvii 1. Historical Overview 1 2. Major Foods and Ingredients 29 3. Cooking 91 4. Typical Meals 117 5. Eating Out 127 6. Special Occasions: Holidays, Celebrations, and Religious Rituals 145 7. Diet and Health 169 Glossary 177 Resource Guide 187 Bibliography 193 Index 197 Preface For the average American diner, knowledge about and interest in Japa- nese food seemed to be confined to a few popular dishes until fairly recently. American exposure to Japanese food was largely limited to Japanese steakhouse chain offerings and deep-fried tempura. One primary ingredi- ent epitomized for the non-Japanese person Japanese food at its pinna- cle—raw fish. However, authentically prepared Japanese cuisine using raw fish as its centerpiece was for many years unavailable outside Japan. The ingredient itself was also a major barrier to undiluted worldwide acclaim of Japanese cuisine. To the uninitiated diner decades ago, sushi (raw fish and vinegared rice balls) or sashimi (raw fish slices) were breathtakingly aesthetic in concept and very visually tempting, but all interest stopped there. Those who did not wish to offend their hosts surreptitiously de- posited sashimi into a convenient paper napkin, or else swallowed it unchewed and washed it down with copious gulps of beer or saké. It does seem an injustice that for a very long time Japanese food did not receive the widespread recognition that it deserves. Many first-time eaters, though bowled over by its aesthetic presentation, describe Japa- nese food as insipid, because the subtlety of Japanese haute cuisine, as demonstrated in the kaiseki, or tea-ceremony, style of cooking, is lost on palates expecting elaborate blends of seasoning. Highly seasoned Chinese or intricately sauced French dishes are more likely to win over experi- menting palates. Palates have to be educated to fully appreciate Japanese food beyond the familiar stews, tempura (deep fried), and the lavishly sea- soned grilled dishes. Tongues have to learn to become sensitive to the [...]... period Grape wine was introduced from Europe, and Yamanashi Prefecture in central Japan started developing varieties of wine in the nineteenth century, leading to a flourishing wine industry today Beer was introduced to the Japanese during the nineteenth century as well Japanese study missions abroad soon found that their studies, particularly in Germany and Holland, were lubricated by this new drink, and... these new ideas into their own cuisine, making modifications along the way Miso is to Japanese cooking what tomatoes and olive oil are to southern Italian cooking and it exemplifies one such introduced food It is made by 6 Food Culture in Japan fermenting soybeans for a period of between six months and two years Miso is an original Chinese flavoring that entered Japan via Korea sometime in the early aristocratic... war in China, bringing misery to millions, and in 1941, the Japanese navy attacked Pearl Harbor, which culminated in Japan s defeat and withdrawal from its conquests in Asia by 1945 This period marked the beginning of a change in the Japanese diet Meat restaurants opened in Yokohama (a port city near Tokyo where most foreign merchants and consulates were located) Curried rice was introduced to the Japanese... subjugated Okinawa, until then an independent kingdom, and made it part of Japan Okinawa to this day retains a distinctive Okinawan cuisine In 1637, Christians were expelled from Japan and Christianity suppressed, but the two other contributions—firearms and food continued to be adapted by the Japanese At the same time, Japan was closed to all foreigners except a small Dutch trading post in Nagasaki... into nine barrels, placing each barrel before a gate in a palisade The nine-headed dragon stuck a head through each opening, consumed a barrel of liquor per head, and fell into a drunken stupor, whereupon the hero killed the beast and won the girl’s hand Brewing and drinking alcohol were so much a part of life in ancient Japan, that it remains today a major part of the offerings made at Shintô shrines... Nationalist feeling just prior to Japan s entering World War II and subsequent wartime austerity struck all foreign dishes (in common with all things foreign) from the Japanese table However, with improved economic conditions, in the 1960s American fast -food chains such as McDonald’s and KFC started making inroads into Japan Today, Japanese fast -food conglomerates that serve similar menus, but with a Japanese... knowledge, are Japan Historical Overview 13 and India: last vestiges of a colonial past Another soft drink, Mitsuya saidâ, has been manufactured in the Japanese town of Kawanishi in Hyogo Prefecture since 1884 Notwithstanding foreign incursions into food and food preferences, Japanese cuisine still retained its vigor Its vitality was ensured by people such as the artist and aesthetic theorist, Rôsanjin Born... British businessmen who had come to Japan from India A few Japanese took to the new-fangled foods (after puzzling out the use of Western utensils: no simple task) Overall, however, it wasn’t until after World War II that the Japanese populace as a whole took to the new foods, and for a period they remained the domain of the adventurous and the intellectual and political elite 12 Food Culture in Japan Until... synonymous with Japanese cuisine world-wide About midway between these two dominant valleys and their cuisines lies another fertile coastal plain Centering more or less around the modern city of Nagoya and backed up against the mountains, the southern plain (Nanzan) provides another culinary center, from which many marine foods come, since it is one of the centers of pelagic and seaweed farming The Japan Sea... nuances of taste, to discern the intrinsic and undisguised natural flavors in each ingredient The aesthetic presentation of Japanese food naturally encourages this focused attention In classical Japanese cuisine, before each diner is an array of small individual servings, each a work of art framed in its own exquisite receptacle “Feed the eye first,” is the first injunction to the Japanese cook Artistry is not . Food Culture in Japan MICHAEL ASHKENAZI JEANNE JACOB GREENWOOD PRESS Food Culture in Japan Cartography by Bookcomp, Inc. Food Culture in Japan. attain the virtuoso expertise of Japanese chefs with years of traditional training behind them. Although we had cooked our own meals while living in Japan,