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$19.99 USA/$23.99 CAN/£14.99 UK Full Color Inside Find travel news & deals, expert advice, and connect with fellow travelers at Full Color Inside Hundreds of color photos • Free pocket map inside, plus easy-to-read maps throughout • Exact prices, directions, opening hours, and other practical information • Candid reviews of hotels and restaurants, plus sights, shopping, and nightlife • Itineraries, walking tours, and trip-planning ideas • Insider tips from local expert authors Hundred London 2011 London 2011 S e r p e n t i n e R d . Edinburgh Gate S a v o y P l . Charles St. L i s l e S t . Frith St. Coptic St. Kinnerton W i l t o n C r e s . Wilton Pl. St. Dean St. Exeter St. C h a n c e r y L n . P o r t u g a l S t . Henrietta Pl. New Bond St. New Cavendish St. Harley St. Marleybone Lane Grosvenor St. Mount St. Poland St. Old Compton St. Duke St. Carlos Pl. Wardour St. Foley St. Gt. Titchfield St. O ld B o n d S t . B r e w e r S t . L e x i n g t o n S t . Albemarle St. Maiden Lane Berners Pl. Gt. Russell St. Upper Grosvenor St. Lowndes Downing St. Jermyn St. Carlton House Terr. Duke St. Whitcomb St. N. Audley Park St. Manchester St. Upper Brook St. S. Audley Berkeley St. Ja m e s S t. Half Moon St. Curzon St. P a r k C r e s . D r u r y L a n e Ca r e y S t . Serle St. Gt. Marlborough St. Haymarket Marylebone High Monmouth St. Newman St. S t . M a r t i n ’ s L n . G t . Q u e e n S t . B o w S t . B e l v e d e r e R d . Bedford St. W e l l i n g t o n Drake St. Procter St. T h a y e r S t . Oxford St. Oxford St. Long Acre Arundel St. Bloomsbury St. Regent St. Regent St. Regent St. New Oxford St. Bloomsbury Way Pall Mall S t . Gi les H i g h St . S h a f t e s b u r y A v e . Hi g h H o l b o r n H i g h H o l b o r n H o r s e G u a r d s Mortimer St. Goodge St. Charing Cross Rd. Piccadilly P a r k L n . Seymour St. C u m b e r l a n d G a t e St. James’s St. Hyde Park Corner G r o s v e n o r P l . Kingsway Fleet St. York Rd. F a r r i n g d o n R d . A l d w y c h Strand Strand The Mall Northumberland Ave. Whitehall Victoria Embankment CENTRAL NORTHERN BAKERLOO PICCADILLY PICCADILLY JUBILEE JUBILEE VICTORIA VICTORIA Charing Cross Station Waterloo Station R i v e r T h a m e s HYDE PARK ST. JAMES’S PARK GREEN PARK JUBILEE GARDENS Berkeley Square Leicester Square Trafalgar Square Horse Guards Parade Hanover Sqare Cavendish Square Piccadilly Circus Oxford Circus Lincoln's Inn Fields Bedford Square Soho Sqare St. James’s Square Grosvenor Square Speakers Corner National Gallery 10 Downing Street St.James's Palace Covent Garden Market Royal Festival Hall British Museum Royal National Theatre Hungerford Bridge Waterloo Bridge Marble Arch Oxford Circus Tottenham Court Rd. Leicester Sq. Covent Garden Holborn Chancery Lane Piccadilly Circus Charing Cross Embankment Green Park Temple Waterloo HOLBORN ST. JAMES’S MARYLEBONE MAYFAIR SOUTH BANK COVENT GARDEN THE STRAND SOHO BLOOMSBURYBLOOMSBURY e n t i n e R d . S a v o y P l . Charles St. L i s l e S t . Frith St. Coptic St. St. Dean St. Exeter St. Cha n c e r y L n . P o r t u g al S t. Henrietta Pl. New Bond St. New Cavendish St. Harley St. Marleybone Lane Grosvenor St. Mount St. Poland St. Old Compton St. Duke St. Carlos Pl. Wardour St. Foley St. Gt. Titchfield St. O ld B ond St . B r e w e r S t . L e x i n g t o n S t . Albemarle St. Maiden Lane Berners Pl. Gt. Russell St. Upper Grosvenor St. Downing St. Jermyn St. Carlton House Terr. Duke St. Whitcomb St. N. Audley Park St. Manchester St. Upper Brook St. S. Audley Berkeley St. Ja m e s St. Half Moon St. Curzon St. D r u r y L a n e Ca r e y S t . Serle St. Gt. Marlborough St. Haymarket Marylebone High Monmouth St. Newman St. S t . M a r t i n ’ s L n . G t . Q u e e n S t . B o w St . B e l ve d e r e R d . Bedford St. W e l l i n g t o n Drake St. Procter St. T h a y e r S t . Oxford St. Oxford St. Long Acre Arundel St. Bloomsbury St. Regent St. Regent St. Regent St. New Oxford St. Bloomsbury Way Pall Mall S t . Gi les Hi g h St . S h a f t e s b u r y A v e . Hi g h H o l b o r n H i g h H o l b o r n H o r s e G u a r d s Mortimer St. Goodge St. Charing Cross Rd. Piccadilly P a r k L n . Seymour St. St. James’s St. Hyde Park Corner Kingsway Fleet St. York Rd. A l d w y c h Strand Strand The Mall Northumberland Ave. Whitehall Victoria Embankment CENTRAL NORTHERN BAKERLOO PICCADILLY PICCADILLY JUBILEE J UBILEE VICTORIA VICTORIA Charing Cross Station Waterloo Station R i v e r T h a m e s HYDE PARK ST. JAMES’S PARK GREEN PARK JUBILEE GARDENS Berkeley Square Leicester Square Trafalgar Square Horse Guards Parade Hanover Sqare Cavendish Square Piccadilly Circus Oxford Circus Lincoln's Inn Fields Bedford Square Soho Sqare St. James’s Square Grosvenor Square National Gallery 10 Downing Street St.James's Palace Covent Garden Market Royal Festival Hall British Museum Royal National Theatre Hungerford Bridge Waterloo Bridge Oxford Circus Tottenham Court Rd. Leicester Sq. Covent Garden Holborn Chancery Lane Piccadilly Circus Charing Cross Embankment Green Park Temple Waterloo HOLBORN ST. JAMES’S MARYLEBONE MAYFAIR SOUTH BANK COVENT GARDEN THE STRAND BLOOMSBURY SOHO 33 31 30 32 34 36 35 38 37 41 40 39 42 43 2 9 3 4 8 6 5 10 7 1 12 11 15 13 14 17 16 21 18 22 24 23 25 20 19 27 26 29 28 Central London Theatres Adelphi 39 Aldwych 34 Ambassadors 7 Apollo 15 Cambridge 5 Coliseum 25 Comedy 20 Criterion 18 Dominion 2 Donmar Warehouse 4 Duchess 36 Duke of York 27 Fortune 31 Garrick 26 Gielgud 14 Her Majesty’s 21 ICA Theatre 23 London Palladium 1 Lyric 16 New London 3 Noel Coward 29 Novello 35 Old Vic 45 Palace 10 Peacock 31 Phoenix 8 Piccadilly 17 Playhouse 40 Prince Edward 11 Prince of Wales 19 Queen Elizabeth Hall 42 Queen’s 13 Royal National Theatre 41 Royal Opera House 30 St. Martins 6 Savoy 37 Shaftesbury 9 Soho Theatre 12 Theatre Royal Drury Lane 32 Theatre Royal Haymarket 22 Vaudeville 38 Whitehall 24 Wyndhams 28 Young Vic 43 Wiley Publishing, Inc. London 2011 by Darwin Porter & Danforth Prince 01_614396-ffirs.indd i01_614396-ffirs.indd i 8/6/10 2:10 PM8/6/10 2:10 PM Published by: WILEY PUBLISHING, INC. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2010 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646- 8600. 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ISBN 978-0-470-61439-6 (paper); ISBN 978-0-470-87713-5 (paper); ISBN 978-0-470-89022-6 (ebk) Editor: Jamie Ehrlich Production Editor: Lindsay Conner Cartographer: Andrew Murphy Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: Neal’s Yard at Covent Garden © Steve Vidler / eStock Photo Back cover photos: Left: Queen Elizabeth Gate at Hyde Park © Steve Vidler / eStock Photo; Middle: Street sign for Abbey Road © Paul Thomason / Eye Ubiquitous / Corbis; Right: London Eye and Big Ben © Pictures Colour Library / Alamy Images For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 877/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 01_614396-ffirs.indd ii01_614396-ffirs.indd ii 8/6/10 1:22 PM8/6/10 1:22 PM CONTENTSCONTENTS List of Maps vi 1 THE BEST OF LONDON 1 The Most unforgettable Travel Experiences 3 The Best Splurge Hotels 6 The Best Moderately Priced Hotels 8 The Most Unforgettable Dining Experiences 9 The Best Museums 10 The Best Activities for Families 12 The Best Things to Do for Free (or Almost) 14 2 LONDON IN DEPTH 16 London Today 17 DATELINE 18 Looking Back at London 19 FUN FACTS: IMPRESSIONS 27 Art & Architecture 29 London in Popular Culture: Books, Film, TV & Music 36 Eating & Drinking in London 43 3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO LONDON 48 Visitor Information 49 Entry Requirements 50 When to Go 52 LONDON CALENDAR OF EVENTS 53 Getting There & Getting Around 57 THE VALUE OF THE BRITISH POUND VS. OTHER POPULAR CURRENCIES 66 WHAT THINGS COST IN LONDON 67 Money & Costs 67 Health 69 Safety 70 Specialized Travel Resources 71 Sustainable Tourism 75 IT’S EASY BEING GREEN 76 Packages for the Independent Traveler 77 Escorted Tours 78 FROMMERS.COM: THE COMPLETE TRAVEL RESOURCE 78 Staying Connected 79 ONLINE TRAVELER’S TOOLBOX 81 Tips on Accommodations 81 Tips on Dining 83 02_614396-ftoc.indd iii02_614396-ftoc.indd iii 8/6/10 1:22 PM8/6/10 1:22 PM 4 SUGGESTED LONDON ITINERARIES 84 Neighborhoods in Brief 85 The Best of London in 1 Day 103 The Best of London in 2 Days 108 The Best of London in 3 Days 111 5 WHERE TO STAY 116 Best Hotel Bets 120 In & Around the City 121 The West End 124 FAMILY-FRIENDLY HOTELS 129 Westminster & Victoria 138 Knightsbridge to South Kensington 142 Marylebone to Holland Park 152 The South Bank 163 Near the Airports 164 6 WHERE TO DINE 167 Some Dining Notes 168 Best Dining Bets 169 Restaurants by Cuisine 171 In & Around the City 174 FAMILY-FRIENDLY RESTAURANTS 184 The West End 184 Westminster & Victoria 207 Knightsbridge to South Kensington 209 Marylebone to Notting Hill Gate 219 A Bit Farther Afi eld 228 Teatime 230 7 EXPLORING LONDON 235 Sights & Attractions by Neighborhood 236 The Top Attractions 238 TRAFALGAR: LONDON’S MOST FAMOUS SQUARE 246 More Central London Attractions 262 A NEIGHBORHOOD OF ONE’S OWN: THE HOMES OF VIRGINIA WOOLF 282 A MONEY-SAVING PASS 284 Exploring London by Boat 303 BIRD’S-“EYE” VIEW OF LONDON 306 Attractions on the Outskirts 308 Especially for Kids 318 Organized Tours 323 London Lidos 324 Spectator Sports 325 02_614396-ftoc.indd iv02_614396-ftoc.indd iv 8/6/10 1:22 PM8/6/10 1:22 PM 8 SHOPPING 327 Shopping in London 328 HOW TO GET YOUR VAT REFUND 329 Central London Shopping 330 GST: GREENWICH SHOPPING TIME 332 The Department Stores 333 Goods A to Z 335 GO EAST, ART LOVER 338 SHOPPING IN "BANGLATOWN" 340 THE COMEBACK OF CARNABY STREET 347 Street & Flea Markets 355 9 LONDON AFTER DARK 359 The Play’s the Thing: London’s Theater Scene 360 NEW VENUES FOR LONDON OPERA LOVERS 362 Classical Music, Dance & Opera 365 The Club & Music Scene 368 Dance, Disco & Eclectic 372 Bars & Cocktail Lounges 377 The Best of London’s Pubs: The World’s Greatest Pub-Crawl 380 10 SIDE TRIPS FROM LONDON 388 Windsor & Eton 389 Oxford: The City of Dreaming Spires 396 The Pursuit of Science: Cambridge 407 Shakespeare’s Stratford-upon- Avon 418 Salisbury & Stonehenge 431 11 FAST FACTS: LONDON 435 Airline, Hotel & Car-Rental Websites 439 Index 442 Accommodations Index 451 Restaurants Index 452 02_614396-ftoc.indd v02_614396-ftoc.indd v 8/6/10 1:22 PM8/6/10 1:22 PM vi Central London Neighborhoods86 Greater London Area104 Where to Stay in the West End126 Where to Stay in Westminster139 Where to Stay from Knightsbridge to South Kensington144 Where to Stay from Marylebone to Holland Park154 Where to Stay & Dine in & around “The City”175 Where to Dine in the West End & Theatre District186 Where to Dine in Westminster208 Where to Dine from Knightsbridge to South Kensington210 Where to Dine from Marylebone to Notting Hill220 Teatime in London231 The Top Attractions240 St. Paul’s Cathedral251 Tower of London257 Westminster Abbey261 “The City” Attractions263 West End Attractions264 Westminster Attractions267 Knightsbridge to Kensington Attractions268 Hampstead Attractions309 Especially for Kids320 World’s Greatest Pub Crawl382 Side Trips from London391 Windsor & Eton395 Oxford397 Cambridge409 Stratford-upon-Avon419 LIST OF MAPSLIST OF MAPS 02_614396-ftoc.indd vi02_614396-ftoc.indd vi 8/6/10 1:22 PM8/6/10 1:22 PM vii ABOUT THE AUTHORS As a team of veteran travel writers, Darwin Porter and Danforth Prince have produced numerous titles for Frommer’s, including guides to Italy, France, the Caribbean, Spain, and Germany. Together they have covered Britain for Frommer’s with guides to Great Britain, Scotland, and England. Danforth Prince was previously employed by the Paris bureau of the New York Times and is currently the president of Blood Moon Productions and works for other media-related fi rms. Darwin Porter is also a fi lm critic, columnist, broadcaster, and Hollywood biographer. HOW TO CONTACT US In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll fi nd others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s London 2011 Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 frommersfeedback@wiley.com AN ADDITIONAL NOTE Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confi rmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. 03_614396-flast.indd vii03_614396-flast.indd vii 8/6/10 1:23 PM8/6/10 1:23 PM viii FROMMER’S STAR RATINGS, ICONS & ABBREVIATIONS Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for: special fi nds—those places only insiders know about fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun kids—best bets for kids and advice for the whole family special moments—those experiences that memories are made of overrated—places or experiences not worth your time or money insider tips—great ways to save time and money great values—where to get the best deals The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AEAmerican Express DISCDiscover VVisa DCDiners Club MCMasterCard TRAVEL RESOURCES AT FROMMERS.COM Frommer’s travel resources don’t end with this guide. Frommer’s website, www.frommers. com, has travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features regularly, giving you access to the most current trip-planning information and the best airfare, lodging, and car-rental bargains. You can also listen to podcasts, connect with other Frommers.com members through our active-reader forums, share your travel photos, read blogs from guidebook editors and fellow travelers, and much more. 03_614396-flast.indd viii03_614396-flast.indd viii 8/6/10 1:23 PM8/6/10 1:23 PM