STEPS TO GARMENT MAKING 1st Step Prepare the fabric booking : After approval of fit sample & received the final PO sheet from buyer, pattern/cutting section will make a correct pattern set of all the sizes. In middle class factory normally merchandiser do the consumption with the help of cutting master after placed the pattern of on marker paper. In this regards please always remember one thing if the orders qty is with size wise ratio then you must consider it during the making marker with pattern. I will discuss more details regarding the marker in near future. After get the consumption & dia confirmations merchandiser will booked the fabric and hand over the color & construction wise fabric break up sheet to fabric department. During this merchandiser should provide them all the lab dip approval with other instructions. Please also booked the collar & cuff. 2nd Step Prepare the Accessories booking: In same time of booking the fabric merchandiser also should booked the accessories. Merchandiser should ensue that, the store will receive all the sewing accessories before in house of the the fabric. Sewing accessories means - Sewing thread, main/size label, care label, tape etc. Merchandiser should always follow up the sewing production because when a minimum qty will be output he should try to book the finishing accessories like as - Poly, Carton etc. Before booked the poly & back board he must confirm the folding way with buyer. Also merchandiser should take approval of shipping mark, sticker & carton quality from his buyer. Some others accessories like as - hang tag, hang tag string, thinner, spot lifter, inter lining, he must booked these at the same time of fabric booking. After received these trims he should make a trim card and distribute to all the sections. Store department should count & check the quality of all the accessories before start sewing production and also provide a inventory report to merchandiser. 3rd Step Production planning: After placing all the booking he should discuss with the planning for a production planning. Maximum middle class factory do not follow this procedure. 4th Step Quality check of fabric: After receive the fabric from dyeing the fabric Q.C department will check the color shade, Gsm, dia, shrinkage, twisting etc and acknowledged the merchandiser accordingly. The fabric q.c team will also check the count the collar & check the others quality. A middle class factory need a strong quality team for fabric because normally they do the dyeing in others factory. 5th Step Fabric Cutting: After receive the green signal from fabric q.c team and merchandiser, cutting section will be start trial cutting at first. At the same time cutting section will check the consumption again in real fabric. They will confirm to the merchandiser that how pcs they can be able to cut from the received fabric. It is very important because some time we need extra fabric due to the increased of fabric GSM. Merchandiser should re booked the short qty fabric if needed. 6th Step Size set & PP sample: After received the bulk fabric production section will make size set sample and check the measurement & shrinkage of fabric. After checking the size set sample they will adjust the pattern and will be make a pre production sample for buyer approval. During the size set sample production department will setup the line layout. Step 5th & 6th will be done at the same time. 7th Step Sewing Section: As in our following this style has no print & embroidery so the cut fabric will be go to input section directly. Merchandiser should sit for a PP meeting with production department with the approved trim card, PP sample, Accessories in house report. Production department should discuss with planning department for production target. a) Placket Making: Production supervisor will made the placket by the help of sewing operator. At first they will fused the fabric with interlining in fusing machine. After that, they will cut the fabric by use of the pattern of placket. After that, they will marked the placket fabric & stitch with a plain machine. b) Pocket Joint: In between of the placket making we will attached the pocket with body by use of a plain machine. Regarding the pocket please be careful about placement of pocket. Sometimes sewing operator sew it slanted & wrong position. c) Placket Make & Joint : After making the placket & joint the pocket with body, the body has goes to next plain machine operator to attached the placket with body. Here normally we used two plain machine. d) Shoulder Joint: After the placket joint we joint the shoulder (front & back part) by use of a over lock machine. e) Shoulder Top Stitch: After shoulder joint we put a top stitch over the shoulder by use of another plain machine. f) Collar tack & Joint : After the shoulder top stitch at first we tack the collar by use a plain machine then we join the collar with body by use of a over lock machine. g) Back tape joint: After collar joint we joint the back tape in the flat lock machine by used of folder. h) Placket Top stitch: After back tap joint we put placket top stitch by use two plain machine. i) Placket Box: After the top stitch of placket we make the placket box by use of plain machine. j) Main/size label attachment: After the placket box making we attached the main/size label inside the back tape by use of plain machine. k) Sleeve rolling/ sleeve hem: In the mean time we roll the or hem the sleeve with flat lock machine. l) Sleeve joint: Now we will joint the sleeve with body by use of over lock machine. m) Side seam joint: After these operations we joint the both side seam of body & sleeve by use of over lock machine. We also attached the care label in between this operations. n) Bottom hem: After the side seam joint we hem the bottom by use of a flat lock machine. o) Sleeve (opening)Tack: After these process we put a tack in sleeve opening. p) Button Hole: Then we make hole on the placket by use of button hole machine. In this regards please note that button hole will be little bit smaller then the button dia (ligne). Also be noted top button hole will be horizontal where as the others button hole will be vertical. However, you should confirmed it with your buyer. q) Button Stitch: After button hole we will be attached the button with placket by use of button stitch machine. Please note that, many time buyer asked for extra button. If needed then we will also stitched a button with the body. Machine Wise Sewing Operation (knit Items) Learn Apparel Merchandising, Learn Fashion Design. Some Common Machine wise Sewing Operations. From my this post you will got a common list of sewing operations based on knitted items. Plain Machine 1. Placket Rolling 2. Placket Box 3. Nose Tack 4. Neck Tack 5. Sleeve Tack 6. Neck Rib Tack 7. Collar Top Stitch 8. Neck Top Stitch 9. Pocket Join 10. Side Band Top Stitch 11. Label Join. Over Lcok Machine 1. Shoulder Join 2. Sleeve Join 3. Side Seam 4. Neck Join Flat Lcok Machine 1. Shoulder Top Stitch 2. Armhole Top Stitch 3. Neck Top Stitch 4. Sleeve Rolling 5. Bottom Hemming Please be informed that, the above list is not a complete list. Trims: During the making and exporting process of a garment we use many kinds of items other then Fabric, Print & Embroidery. We called these items as trims. Trims cover all the items used in the garment except the basic fabric. There are hundreds of items used to manufacture the garments, Proper selection of trims and its quality are very important for styling, otherwise the garment may be rejected or returned by the customers. Please find below a short list that covers some names of the trims: 1. Sewing thread: The main & most common trims are sewing thread. Normally buyer asked the matching color sewing thread. In garments production normally we used 100% spun polyester thread, 100% cotton thread, Filament thread etc. The polyester thread shade is color fastness. Tensile strength. Elasticity, Shrinkage, Moisture Regain, abrasion, Resistance etc these are some quality of sewing thread. 50/2 is the most common count sewing thread normally we use it in T-shirt. 40/2 & 40/3 count sewing thread is also available in market. Normally we use these thicker thread in heavy garment like as sweat shirt, jacket, trouser etc. The price of 40/2 yarn is higher than 50/2. 2. Zipper: From the zipper factory we can get various kind of zipper. We can categorize the zipper by following points as mentioned below a) Teeth: Nylon teeth, Vislone teeth, Metal teeth etc. b) Color: Tape color, Teeth color. c) Size: #3, #5 & #8 etc. d) Function: Auto lock, Semi auto lock, Hidden zipper, reversible, Open end (O/E), Close End (C/E) etc. e) Length: As per requirement 18 cm, 66 cm etc. 3. LABELS: Main, Size, Care (Polyester care label & Nylon or paper care label), Content, price, patch etc 4. BUTTON : Pearl plastic button, 02 hole button, 03 hole button, 04 hole button, custom button shape, Horn button, Shang button, Metal button, logo button, non logo button etc. 5. ELASTIC : Cotton elastic, Polyester elastic, 400 denier, 700 denier, 1 cm width, 1.5 cm width, 3 cm width etc. 6. EYELET : Antique, Matching color, Matt silver, Antique Silver, 22 mm dia, with logo or w/o logo, emboss logo, engraved logo etc. 7. SNAP BUTTON: Snap button, press button, 4 part snap button, male part of snap button, female part of snap button, antic color, Silver color, matching color. 8. VELCRO : Hook & Pile, Matching color. 9. STRING/CORD : Cotton, Polyester etc. 10. PLASTIC CLIP 11. Tag pin: Clr – White, black, transparent, 3 cm, 6 cm, 8 cm, 12 cm etc. 12. TAGS : Price tag, Hand Tag, Brand Tag etc. 13. STICKER : Hook & Pile etc. 14. HANGER: BDS hanger, t-hanger, 28 cm, 34 cm, Transparent, Semi transparent, Solid color etc. 15. Hanger size ring: Size ring of hanger, Size print etc. 16. POLYBAG (0.80 mm) : Strength : Chemical Mixture. Thickness (micron/mm: 1mm = 1000 micron) Elasticity Transparent, LDPE (Low Density Poly Ethylene), PP (Poly Propylene), Adhesive, with hole, warning, size, recycle logo etc. 17. BLISTER BAG (.05 mm): Loaded capacity is higher than polybag 18. SCOTCH TAPE 19. GUMTAPE: With logo print, none logo, Khaki color, transparent color. 20. CARTON: 3ply, 5ply, Size (L,W. H), gum pasting, PP belt, metal stitching, divider, bottom, shipping mark etc. 21. Interlining : Crash lining, soft lining, Hard lining etc. 22. Silica: For controlling the moisture in the carton. 23. Shoulder tape: Cotton, Polyester etc. Above list just for a Idea not a complete list. How to Make Line Loading Plan for Garment Production? 33 Home > Production Planning In “Line loading plan” planner decides on which date a style to be loaded and how many lines to be considered for the style to meet the production completion date. Line loading plan is an important task for a production planner. Planner needs to do backward and forward planning based on lead time. In this article I will explain how to make line loading plan and what things are important during making a loading plan. Explanation is given step by step in the following with examples. There is lot of mathematical calculation. So, I will suggest you to use spreed sheet for the making the plan. Step 1: Make a list of current orders with details such as order no., order quantity, style description, and production completion date. Refer to the Table-1. Suppose order has been received on the month March and production completion date on May from 4 th to 21 st . Table- 1: Order list Order No. Garment Description Order Quantity (pieces) Production completion date OCS101 Dress 200010 th May OCS102 Blouse 300012 th May OCS103 Trouser 500015 th May GAP104 Long sleeve Tee 300017 th May GAP105 Skirt 300021 st May GAP106 Dress 150021 st May GAP107 Long sleeve Tee 1000010 th May GAP108 Skirt 120004 th May Total 28,000 Step 2: Suppose a factory has 5 production lines. Calculate available capacity of the line using capacity calculation formula considering absenteeism (10%) and line efficiency %. You should have knowledge about line wise production efficiency to calculate actual capacity of a line. Or calculate it prior to line loading plan. Available capacity in hours = {(No. of operators/machines x working days in a month x daily work hours x 60) – absenteeism %} x Efficiency % Line wise available capacity has been shown in the Table-2. It is considered that each line is equipped with 25-32 machines (operators), factory’s normal shift time is 8 hours (480 minutes) and line efficiency is in the range of 39% to 55%. Table- 2: Available capacity calculation Line No. No. of Operator Minutes/Day (Daily working Hrs. X 60) Line Efficiency Absenteeism % Capacity available Line 1 30 480 40% 10% 5184.0 Line 2 28 480 50% 10% 6048.0 Line 3 32 480 55% 10% 7603.2 Line 4 32 480 45% 10% 6220.8 Line 5 25 480 39% 10% 4212.0 Step 3: Next, calculate required capacity for each order (style) in minutes and in days. Assume that above 8 styles to be run in 5 lines and styles will be loaded only in single line. Consider that all lines blank and you have no issue with starting date. In this stage you have to also decide which line to be chosen for the styles. Allocate order to the line according to product category and line set up (machines laid). In Table-3 line number has been mentioned against the order number. Use the following formula for the calculation. Capacity required in minutes = Order Quantity X Style SMV Capacity required in days = Capacity required in minutes / Capacity available per day. Refer to the table-3 for calculated minutes and days required for each style. Table-3: Required capacity calculation Order No. Loaded to Line No. Order Quantity Style SMV Capacity Required (Minutes) Capacity available per day Capacity Required (Days) OCS101 Line-1 2000 28 56000 5184 11 OCS102 Line-2 3000 25 75000 6048 12 OCS103 Line-3 5000 20 100000 7603.2 13 GAP104 Line-4 3000 10 30000 6220.8 5 GAP105 Line-5 3000 18 54000 4212 13 GAP106 Line-1 1500 28 42000 5184 8 GAP107 Line-4 10000 10 100000 6220.8 16 GAP108 Line-5 1200 18 21600 4212 5 Step 4: Now do backward calculation to find the date for style loading. Days needed to complete production on due date, Sundays and holidays must be excluded in day count. And add one to two days initially for line setting according to style requirement. If required, you can add buffer for one to two days. To make it easy in calculating the loading dates considering above points use spreadsheet based planning board. For example refer to the following image-1. I have made loading plan on the planning [...]... (Table-4) representing loading date against orders Image-1: Planning Board Table-4: Order loading date Order Garment Loaded Production Capacity Loading Comments No Description to Line # completion Required date date (Days) OCS101 OCS102 OCS103 GAP104 GAP105 GAP106 GAP107 GAP108 Dress Blouse Trouser Long sleeve Tee Skirt Dress Long sleeve Tee Skirt Line-1 Line-2 Line-3 Line-4 10th May 12th May 15th May. .. GAP108 Dress Blouse Trouser Long sleeve Tee Skirt Dress Long sleeve Tee Skirt Line-1 Line-2 Line-3 Line-4 10th May 12th May 15th May 17th May Line-5 Line-1 Line-4 21st May 21st May 10th May Line-5 04th May 1126th April 1227th April 1328th April 511th May 135th May 811th May 1621st April 528th April Step 5: Once you gone through this article, practice this with some of your real styles I wish you can make . BUTTON : Pearl plastic button, 02 hole button, 03 hole button, 04 hole button, custom button shape, Horn button, Shang button, Metal button, logo button, non logo button etc. 5. ELASTIC : Cotton. emboss logo, engraved logo etc. 7. SNAP BUTTON: Snap button, press button, 4 part snap button, male part of snap button, female part of snap button, antic color, Silver color, matching color. 8 1. Shoulder Top Stitch 2. Armhole Top Stitch 3. Neck Top Stitch 4. Sleeve Rolling 5. Bottom Hemming Please be informed that, the above list is not a complete list. Trims: During the making and