[...]... a fundamental consideration in the design and construction processes The importance of silhouette Getting started Silhouette is fundamental to the preliminary stages of the design process in order to determine which parts of the body will be emphasised and why Once these decisions are made, it is up to the pattern cutter and designer to start contemplating how the design can be physically constructed... creative and exciting Once the design has been completed, the process of breathing life into a flat design drawing in order to achieve an actual garment can begin To be able to achieve a beautiful garment shape takes time and experience Remember nothing ever happens without practising your skills – don’t be disheartened if it doesn’t work first time round All outstanding fashion designers and creative pattern... pocket, collar and sleeve construction You will be introduced to cutting techniques and bias-cut garments You will also learn about the fitting process: how to fit the toile and alter the pattern accordingly Finally we take a look at the different ways of laying and cutting patterns from fabric Pattern cutting How to read a design drawing 1/2 Photograph and illustration of design by Karin Gardkvist... takes experience and practice Designers who have been cutting patterns for twenty years can still learn something new – the process of learning never stops This makes creative pattern cutting a fascinating process 1 Getting started > Pattern cutting > Garment construction In this chapter we introduce the meaning of a drafted block and how to turn it into a pattern from a design drawing We take a look... centre front) and transfer the complete waist and bust dart into the armhole 3 4 Design analysis: asymmetrical design with intersecting darts coming from the waist and ending at the bust point The pattern is now ready to be cut out of calico and made into a toile for a fitting Draw in the slashing lines according to your design 2 Pattern cutting Slash and spread 1 Skirt constructed by slash and spread... o’ mutton sleeve d Juliet sleeve e Trumpet sleeve f Bishop sleeve Sleeve construction is a very special part of pattern cutting Sleeves can be part of the bodice (laid-on sleeve) or set into an armhole (set-in sleeve) Without any other design features added, a garment can look outstanding by simply creating an interesting sleeve design The most basic sleeve block is the one-piece (set-in) sleeve, which... can be made on the toile before being transferred to the pattern This stage is examined in more detail on page 58 2 Sizing and grading > Blocks and patterns A pattern is developed from a design sketch using a block The designer or pattern cutter will add to the block by introducing style lines, drapes, pleats, pockets and other adjustments to create an original pattern Getting started 1 Samples A sample... are taken out by designers for photo shoots, events such as premieres and for reference or possible inspiration for future collections How the measurements relate to the block Getting started Whether taking individual measurements or using a size chart, the main measurements (bust girth, waist girth, waist-to-hip length and hip girth) will give a good indication of the body shape the design is intended... corresponding measurements 22 / 23 bust waist How to start a set of blocks A set of blocks can be cut for one individual in order to create bespoke/couture garments Design houses will often create their own set of blocks to complement their special ethos and design philosophy When starting a set of blocks, it may help to ask the following questions: Who is my target group: women, children or men? What will be... the same approach to clothes as I did when I designed buildings It is basic geometry: you take a flat form and revolve it in space.’ Meadham & Kirchhoff A/W07 Catwalking.com Gianfranco Ferre Like all craft skills, pattern cutting can at first seem difficult and intimidating But with a basic understanding of the rules to be followed (and broken!) the aspiring designer will soon learn interesting, challenging . BFD 03 construction Title_01441:BFD 03 construction Title_01441 6/15/09 12:09 PM Page 1 BASICS CONS TRUCTION 03 FASHION DESIGN Anette Fischer BFD 03 construction Title_01441:BFD 03 construction. clothing and of fashion design; it is vital that fashion designers know and understand the techniques involved in creating a three-dimensional garment from a two-dimensional design or pattern. Catwalking.com. (AVA): Basic Fashion Design CD090 8-0 96 / 4272 ~ 3rd Proof SIF AVABF3 Chpt1 11.06_.qxd 9/20/08 7:49 AM Page 3 (AVA): Basic Fashion Design CD080 8-0 38 / 4237 ~ 2nd Proof SIF AVABF3