Findings Findings The Material Culture of Needlework and Sewing Mary C Beaudry Yale University Press New Haven & London Published with assistance from the foundation established in memory of Philip Hamilton McMillan of the Class of 1894, Yale College Copyright © 2006 by Yale University All rights reserved This book may not be reproduced, in whole or in part, including illustrations, in any form (beyond that copying permitted by Sections 107 and 108 of the U.S Copyright Law and except by reviewers for the public press), without written permission from the publishers Set in Electra type by Tseng Information Systems, Inc Printed in the United States of America by Sheridan Books Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Beaudry, Mary Carolyn, 1950– Findings : the material culture of needlework and sewing / Mary C Beaudry p cm Includes bibliographical references and index isbn-13: 978-0-300-11093-7 (clothbound : alk paper) isbn-10: 0-300-11093-6 (clothbound : alk paper) Pins and needles—History Sewing—Equipment and supplies—History Needlework—Equipment and supplies—History I Title a gt2280 b43 2006 306.4—dc22 2006015214 A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library The paper in this book meets the guidelines for permanence and durability of the Committee on Production Guidelines for Book Longevity of the Council on Library Resources 10 In memory of my mother, Mary Mason Barkuloo Beaudry, who continued to take joy in her sewing despite losing her sight Contents Acknowledgments ix one Introduction: Small Finds, Big Histories two The Lowly Pin 10 three The Needle: ‘‘An Important Little Article’’ 44 four The Ubiquitous and Occasionally Ordinary Thimble 86 five Shears and Scissors 115 six Findings: Notions, Accessories, and the Artifacts of Textile Production 137 seven Stitching Together the Evidence Notes 179 References Index vii 207 227 169 Acknowledgments I owe great thanks to many people for their assistance and supportiveness over the years as I have worked in my halting fashion on this book Carl Crossman’s enthusiasm on finding a monogrammed silver thimble at my site, the SpencerPeirce-Little Farm in Newbury, Massachusetts, inspired me to research the artifacts of needlework and sewing, and I thank him for that as well as for all the many volunteer hours he donated to the Spencer-Peirce-Little Project, enlightening me and my students all the while about ceramics and material culture in general George Miller, Richard Candee, and Jane Nylander encouraged me to pursue this project and were instrumental in my good fortune in securing a fellowship to conduct research at the Winterthur Museum and Library As I embarked on my research, Jean Wilson, through the good offices of her husband, Norman Hammond, told me to read Roszika Parker’s book The Subversive Stitch Parker’s insightful book helped frame my thinking, and I am exceedingly grateful to Jean for putting me on to it in my early research I am also grateful to have been blessed twice, in 1994–95 and in 2001, with the opportunity to pursue research at the Winterthur Museum and Library, in both instances funded by a National Endowment for the Humanities Fellowship for Advanced Study Winterthur is, of course, a mecca for material culture researchers, and it is not just the library and its marvelous resources that make working there so special Neville Thompson, now retired, was librarian during both of my fellowship periods; she was a marvel at recommending relevant resources in the Winterthur collection and in suggesting avenues I might pursue in winkling out the sorts of information I was after She has been called ‘‘Librarian Extraordinaire’’ with good reason! I also thank E Richard McKinstry, Andrew W Mellon Senior Librarian, for his help with archival materials; Linda Eaton, Curator of Textiles, for her generosity with her time and expertise; Gary Kulik, Director of ix References 223 Sheridan, Clare M 1987 Textile Manufacturing in American History: A Bibliography Textile History 18(1):59–86 Simons, D Brenton 2005 Witches, Rakes, and Rogues: True Stories of Scandal, Murder, and Mayhem in Boston, 1630–1775 Commonwealth Editions, Beverly, MA Singer, Charles, E J Holmyard, and A R Hall 1954 A History of Technology Vol 2: The Mediterranean Civilizations and the Middle Ages, c 700 B.C to c 1500 A.D Clarendon Press, Oxford Singer, Charles, E J Holmyard, A R Hall, and Trevor I Williams 1957 A History of Technology, Vol 3: From the Renaissance to the Industrial Revolution, c 1500–c 1750 Clarendon Press, Oxford Smith, Adam [1776] 1910 The Wealth of Nations vols J M Dent and Sons, London Smithhurst, Peter 1987 The Cutlery Industry Shire Album 195 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Current Prices Warman (Wallace-Homestead Book), Radnor, PA Index Page numbers in italics refer to illustrations Abbeydale Museum, 196n43 Abbott Farm, Bedford, Mass., 150–151 Academy of Armory, 68 acculturation, 114 ‘‘active voice’’ ethnographic approach, 179n10 acutrudia See needle-pushers, finds of African-American archaeology, 38, 62, 158, 187n75 African burial ground, New York City, 186n68 Aignish, Isle of Lewis, Outer Hebrides, Scotland: burials at, 167–168 Alaca Höyük, Turkey, 11 Algonkian, 112 All Saints Church, Irthlingborough, England, 185n65 almshouses, 74, 193n60 American Revolution, 19, 50, 99 American Silver Thimbles, 97 American West, 169, 170, 176 amphibolite, 90 Anatolia, 90 Andere, Mary, 128 Anne Arundel County, Md., 184n55 Anthropological Studies Center, Sonoma State University, 190n40, 203n44, 204n58 Antioch, 46, 92 Antwerp, 152 Aphrodite, Temple of, 11 Appleton Roebuck, England, 185n63, 193n68 Aquidneck Island, R.I., 97 Ardingly Fulling Mill, Weald, England, 199n26, 200n30 Armitage, Philip, 74, 193n61 Art de l’épinglier, 17, 18, 23, 30 Artifacts of the Spanish Colonies of Florida and the Caribbean, 88 Ashurst, Denis, 146 Avalon, Colony of See Ferryland awls, 45, 75, 90, 163, 190n44 Balinderry, Ireland, 12 Barber, Elizabeth, 137, 138, 188n8, 197n3 Barnsley, England, 145 Basing House, Hampshire, England, 76 Becket, Thomas à, 13 Bedfordshire, England, 152, 158, 202n23 Bedford St Paul workhouse, England, 158 227 228 Index Bedwin, Owen, 199n30 Bergen, Norway, 46 Bertrand, wreck of, 169–170, 194n4 Bible, 112, 113 ‘‘Big Dig.’’ See Central Artery/Third Harbor Tunnel Project, Boston, Mass Bilston-Batterseas (thimbles), 96 Bingen, Saint Hildegard von, 93 Birka, Sweden, 71, 76 Birmingham, England, 17, 20, 96, 99 Bishop, J Leander, 182n23 bodkins 46, 66–70, 69, 70, 79, 81–85, 89, 90, 163, 190n44, 191n45, 191nn49–52, 194n80, 202n38 Bolingbroke Castle, Lincolnshire, England, 124, 125 bone working, 73–79, 192n60 camel bone, 92 knuckle bone floors, 193n67 Book of Rates, Customs House Library, London, 95 Book of Trades, 182n20 Boston, England, 46 Boston, Mass., 33, 34, 98, 160, 173, 185n63 Mill Pond site, 70 See also Naylor, Katherine Nanny Breachacha Castle, Coll, Argyll, Scotland, 46 Bridgnorth, England, 49 Brimstone Hill Fortress slave quarters, St Kitts, West Indies, 74 Bristol, England, 17 Narrow Quay, 180n6, 189n20 British Archaeological Association, 89 British North West Company, 59 British Standard Wire Gauge, 51 Britt, Kelly, 173, 204n6 brothels See prostitution Buckinghamshire, England, 152, 202n38 Buckinghamshire-style lace, 158 Burman, Barbara, 171, 174 busks, 155 Byron, Lord, 15 Calvert family of Maryland, 35 Charles, 69 Candee, Richard, 201n22 Canton Glass Company, Canton, Ohio, 204n58 Carnarvon, Lord (George Herbert), 11 Carus-Wilson, Eleanora, 118 Casella, Eleanor Conlin, 171 Castle Raubritterburg Tannenger, Darmstadt, Germany, 93 Central Artery/Third Harbor Tunnel Project, Boston, Mass., 33 Central School, London, 176 Charles’ Gift, St Mary’s County, Md., 69, 70, 133–135, 134 chatelaines, 133, 192n56 Châtellerault, France, 119 Chelsea, England, 96 chenille, 189n22 Chester, Leonard, 19 Chichester, England, 49, 145 children, sewing by, 176–177 Children’s Employment Commission, 202n38 China, 46, 47, 64, 91, 138 Han dynasty silk weaving, 146 Chinese Mining Camp Site, Warren, Idaho, 162, 203n48 Chiusi, Tuscany, 11 Christ Church, Spitalfields, London, 185n65, 185n66, 186n68 Christianity, 112 ideology of, 113, 177 Christopher Goodwin Associates, 191– 192n52 Christ’s Kirk, Leslie, Scotland, 185n65 cire perdú, 92 Civil War, U.S., 120, 183n44 clamps, sewing, 160–162 Clauss Primer: Mother Goose Up to Date, 198n14 Clauss Shear Company, Toledo, Ohio, 120 Clements, Joyce, 149 Index Clifts Plantation, Westmoreland County, Va., 187n71 Cofield, Sara Rivers, 192n52 Colchester, England, 49 colonialism, ideology of, 113, 114 Colonial Revival, 149 Colonial Williamsburg, Va., 97 Columbus, Christopher, 22, 109 Compton site, Calvert County, Md., 41 table 2.4 consumption (tuberculosis), 156 context, archaeological, 100 cultural, 5, 85 domestic, 39–43 ethnographic, historical, interpretive, military, 42 Convento de San Francisco, Dominican Republic, 109 Corbin, Annalies, 169, 170 Córdoba, Spain, 47 Corinth, Greece, 92 crannogs, 12 Crusaders, 93 Ctesiphon, Iraq, 92 Cumberland, R.I., 19 Cuming, H Syer, 89 Cutler’s Company of Sheffield, England, 117 Cypress Freeway Replacement Project, West Oakland, Calif., 61–62, 160, 167, 190n35 Damascus, Syria, 46 darners, 166–167, 204n58 Deagan, Kathleen, 2, 22, 34, 44, 88, 89, 186n66, 187n76 De Cunzo, Lu Ann, 171 Derby, Conn., 19 Derby, England, 96 Diamond, Joe, 191n51 229 ‘‘dicky pots,’’ 157 Diderot, Denis, 17, 27, 182n19 See also Encyclopedia documents, use of in archaeology, 7, 73, 82 table 3.4, 139, 140–142 table 6.1, 151, 173 domesticity, 133 Don Juan (poem), 15 Dorcas (trademark) needles, 20, 21 thimbles, 104, 105 Dorchester, England, 49 dressmaking See seamstresses Drimore, South Uist, Scotland, 180n6 drizzler, 164 Dryden, John, 66, 190n44 Dublin, Ireland, 180n5 High Street excavations, 71, 76 Duggleby Howe, Yorkshire, England, 12 Dura-Europus, Syria, 61 Dutch Reformed Church, 68 Dutch West India Company, 68 dyspepsia, 156 East Riding of Yorkshire, England, 198n7 Edge, Thomas, 17 Edward III of England, 13 Egan, Geoff, 181n17 and Frances Pritchard, 16, 181n19 Egypt, 11, 12, 90 el-Assasif, Thebes, 11, 180n1 el-Lisht, 91 Naqada, 92, 195n14 Eliot, John, 112 Eltonhead, William, 69 Emancipation, 204n5 embroidery and femininity, 4, 71 needles for, 53–54 scissors for, 135, 136 Empire Knife Company, West Winstead, Conn., 120 En Bas Saline, Haiti, 97–98 Encyclopedia (Diderot’s), 17 230 Index Ephesus, 92 Eskilstuna, Sweden, 119 Essex County, Mass., 147, 149, 153, 188n5, 197n60 Farrar, Allethenia Fisk, 132–133, 132, 133 femininity, ideology of, 4–5, 113, 133, 169, 174–175 Ferryland, Newfoundland, 191n49 Fingelsham, Kent, England, 198n9 Fiske Memorial Center for Archaeological Research, 112 Flanders, 47, 152 flax See linen production forensic analysis, 202n23 Forge Mill, Redditch, England, 50–51 Fort Mose, Fla., 74 Fort Orange, N.Y., 191n51 Fort Stanwix, Rome, N.Y., 182n33 Fox, Russell, and K G Barton, 188n1 France, 16, 21, 90, 92, 94, 106, 116, 118, 119, 146 Free Grammar School, Whitefriars, Coventry, England, 22, 26, 183n33, 183n41 Friedrick Dick catalog, 129, 130, 131 Fund for Female Emigration, 173 Gagiana, possible wreck of, 94 Galle, Jillian, 64, 164, 187n75, 202n40 Garsault, Monsieur de, 28 gender, 2, 111, 131 gender roles See gender Genoa, Italy, 109 George Washington’s Ferry Farm, Fredericksburg, Va., 167 Germany, 80, 93, 96, 106, 109, 119 Gilbert, Thomas, 202n38 gimp, 189n27 Gloucester, England, 17, 20, 201n13 Folk Museum, 17, 182n26 Gnalic, Yugoslavia, 94 Goldsmith Stern and Company of New York, 108 Goodchild, John, 201n13 Good Wives, 84 Governor’s Land, Va., 124, 188n1 Grand Portage, Minn., 59, 189n28 Great Carrying Place See Grand Portage Great Marlow, England, 96 Griggs, Heather, 164 Guide to Artifacts of Colonial America, 88 Gwent, Wales Old Market Street and Maryport Street site, Usk, 33 Haggart’s Mill, Aberfeldy, 200n30 Hallamshire district, West Riding of Yorkshire, 119 Hall Place, St Neots, Huntingdonshire, England, 26, 46 Hals, Frans, 191n50 Halstead, Benjamin, 99 Hand-book of Needlework, 165 Handbook of Thimbles and Sewing Implements, 106, 110 Harris, Timothy, 20 Hartford, Conn., 174 Hawley Collection, Archaeological Research School, University of Sheffield, 199n19 Heinisch, Rochus, 120 hem weights, 167–168, 167 Henry VIII of England, 17, 182n20 Henry Milward and Sons, 51, 188n12 Herbert, Sidney, 173 Herculaneum, 89 Hermitage Plantation, Tenn See Triplex Middle Slave Cabin High Wycombe, England, 153, 202n38 Hill, Erika, 88, 89, 97, 100, 109 Himsworth, J B., 116 Hinsley, Apollos (Dr.), 19 Historical Archaeology (journal), Historical Society of New Hampshire, History of Thimbles, 100 Hitzacher, Elbe, Germany, 192n58 H Muhr Sons, Philadelphia, 108 Index Holland See Netherlands Holme, Randle, 68 Holmes, Edwin, 88, 95, 96, 99, 100, 101, 107, 108, 109, 110, 194n6 Honiton, England, 152 Honiton-style lace, 152, 159, 202n23 Horner, Charles, 104, 105 Houndhill, Yorkshire, England, 145–147, 149, 151 Household Manufactures in the United States, 153 Howe Manufacturing Company, 19 Huey, Paul, 191n51 Hunt, Seth, 20 Huntington, Mass., 99 Huntsman, Benjamin, 121 Hurry, Silas, 40, 41, 135 H Walker London (trademark), 165 Iceland, 46 identity discourses about, 85, 179n10 feminine, construction of, 5–7, 131 gender, 2–5, 6, 85, 133 negotiation of, 88, 179n10 personal, 9, 85, 111, 133 social, 9, 111 Iles, Charles, 104, 195n16 Illustrated Dictionary of Hair Dressing and Wig Making, 27 Inquiry into the Nature and Causes of the Wealth of Nations, 19 institutional sites, 74, 111 interpretive archaeology, 7, 179n10 Ipswich, Mass., 81, 82, 84, 85, 86, 87, 153, 155, 156, 179n8, 202n26 Isaac, Rhys, 179n10 Isle of Wight, 181n10 Islington, England, 96 Italy, 119, 146 Jacobite Rising, 27 Jamestown, Va., 67 Janowitz, Meta, 68 231 Jarlshof, Shetland, Scotland, 77 Jefferson Patterson Park and Museum, 35 Jenkins, Geraint, 66 Jenks, Joseph, 17, 19, 182n23 Joan of England, Princess, wedding of, 13 John Hicks site, Md., 41 Jonge, Ludoph de, 191n50 Jordan’s Journey, Hopewell, Va., 41, 67, 187n78 Jorvik See York, England Joyful Company (painting), 67 Julius Berbecker and Son of New York, 56, 57, 58 table 3.2 J Wiss and Sons, Newark, N.J., 117, 197n2, 199n15 kersey, 201n19 Ketcham and McDougall of Brooklyn, N.Y., 107 Kierstede, Hans, 68 kindergartens, 176–177 King, Julia A., 35 King’s Lynn site, Norfolk, England, 16 King’s Reach site, Md., 41 table 2.4 Kirby, Beard, and Company, 20 knitting, 59–62 accessories, 164–166 needles, finds of Roman, 61 Victorian, 61, 62, 190n35 Viking, 61 Kuhn, Dieter, 146 lace-making, 151–159 in Belgium, 152 in Devonshire, England, 152 in English Midlands, 152 in France, 152 in Italy, 152 in Netherlands, 152 pins, 27, 155 scissors, 126 types of, 27, 126 La Florida, Spanish colonial sites in, 22 232 La Isabela, Hispaniola, 22 L’Anse aux Meadows, Newfoundland, 121 La Tène, France, 116 latten, 93 Lea, William, 50 Left Coast Press, 179n2 Lewis, Wright and Bayliss, 29 Leyster, Judith, 67, 191n50 linen production, 90, 139, 145, 146, 149 literacy, 85, 194n80 Lofting, John, 96 London, England, 12, 16, 20, 49, 50, 71, 95, 105, 117, 119, 120, 123, 124, 138, 143, 144, 145, 153, 173, 176, 180n1, 181n17, 181n18, 191n47, 192n58 Aldgate, 78, 125, 200n32 Battle Bridge Lane site, 16 Billingsgate, 192n59 Bridewell Palace, 76 Orange Street site, 16 Royal Navy Victualling Yard, 76 Southwark, 95 Whitechapel, 189n26 Long Crendon, England, 49 Longman, E D., and S Loch, 27, 31 Longmeadow, Mass., 99 Louvre Museum, 191n50 Low Countries, 47 Luchenbach, Al, 184n55 Luedtke, Barbara, lutestring, 194n2 Lynn, England, 46 MacGregor, Arthur, 74, 75, 76, 77 Magunco Hill, Ashland, Mass., 112 Maines, Rachel, 203n42 makers’ marks, 94, 135 manhood, link with tailor-made clothing, 174, 205n9 Margarita, wreck of, 194n4 Margeson, Sue, 181n8 Marx, Karl, 204n1 Maryland Archaeological Conservation Laboratory, 192n52 Index Mary Rose, wreck of, 95 Massachusetts, Commonwealth of, 112 Massachusetts Bay Colony, 112, 153 Mattapony site, Calvert County, Md., 41 table 2.4 Meissen porcelain, 96 Merchants Road site, Galway, Ireland, 189n20 Meriden, Conn., 161 Meriden Cutlery Company, Meriden, Conn., 119–120 metonymy, 179n10 Michigan, Upper Peninsula of, 77 Miller, Henry, 97 Miller, Marla, 174, 175 Miller Brothers of Southington, Conn., 120 missionaries, 112–114, 177 Missouri River, 169 Montgomery Ward catalog, 108 Monticello, Va., slave quarters at, 74 Moore, Peter, and Graham Reed, 42 Morrall, Abel, 44, 165 Moulins, France, 119, 128 Moulsham Street site, Chelmsford, Essex, England, 16 Mrozowski, Stephen A., 112 Much Wenlock, England, 49 Murray, H K., and J C Murray, 188n1 Museum of London, 12, 40, 115, 192n59 My Crochet Sampler, 63 Nalchik, northeast Caucasus, 12 nålebinding, 60 Namur, Belgium, 119 Narragansett Indians, 97 narrative, National Needle Museum, Redditch, England, 51 Native Americans, 112, 189n29 See also individual tribes Naylor, Katherine Nanny, 34, 34, 78, 78, 160, 173, 204n6 needlecases, 31, 71, 73, 73, 76–79, 78, 156, 193n61, 193n66, 193n68 Index medieval, 71, 192n58, 192n59 postmedieval, 76, 77–79 Saxon, 76, 192n56 Viking, 71, 77 needle-makers, wills of, 49 needle packaging, 70–79, 72, 73, 78 needle-pushers, finds of in Africa, 90 Bronze Age, 91 Byzantine, 91 in China, 90 Classical, 91 Iron Age, 91 Neolithic, 90 Ottoman, 91 Roman, 91 in Russia, 90 needle-rings See thimble rings needles, finds of medieval, 46, 80 Mesolithic, 90 Neolithic, 45, 90 postmedieval, 80–81 Roman, 46 Saxon, 46 Upper Paleolithic, 45 needle-threaders, 52–53 Neergaard, Margrethe de, 118, 119 ‘‘nest eggs,’’ 167 Netherlands, 80, 95, 96, 106, 109, 152, 180n7 Amsterdam, 95, 191n50 Haarlem, 191n50 Hindelopen, Friesland, 67 Oost-Souburg, Zeeland, 75 Schoonhoven, 95 Utrecht, 95 Vianen, 95 New Amsterdam, 68 Newark, N.J., 99, 120 Newburyport, Mass., 45 New Century Club, West Oakland, Calif., 177 Newey Company, 21 233 Newey Goodman Limited, 21 New Netherlands, 68 Newport, R.I., 45 New York, 25, 62, 98, 99, 193n60 Broad Financial Center site, 68 Five Points neighborhood, 25, 62, 106, 158, 159, 160, 164, 166, 173, 203n51, 204n58 World Trade Center Towers, 203n51 Ninigret (Princess), 97 Nipmuc Indians, 112–114 Noël Hume, Ivor, 2, 88, 89 Norfolk, England, 67 Northampton, Mass., 175 Northamptonshire, England, 152 North Carolina, Provincial Congress of, 19, 50 North Dalton Church, North Humberside, England, 186n66 Norway, 46, 60, 65, 106 Norwich, England, 13, 16, 67, 68 Notley Hall, St Mary’s County, Md., 77 Nottingham Lace Market, 202n27 Nottinghamshire, England, 202n22 Nueva Cadíz, Venezuela, 109 Nuremberg, Germany, 47, 75, 93, 94, 95, 109, 119 Oakland, Calif., 176 Oneida Indians, 68 Outer Hebrides, Scotland, 198n4 Outlaw, Alain, 188n1 Overseas Chinese, archaeology of, 162, 176 Oxfordshire, England, 152, 153, 158 Palestine, 90 Palmer, Marilyn, and Peter Neaverson, 201n13 Paphos, Cyprus See Aphrodite, Temple of Paris, France 17, 119 Parker, Rozsika, 4, Patuxent Point, Calvert County, Md., 35, 36 burying ground, 35–39, 187n72 Patuxent River, 35 234 Patuxent River Naval Air Station, St Mary’s County, Md., 69, 133 Payter, John, 17 Peabody Essex Museum, Salem, Mass., 197n60, 204n5 Peirce, Jane, embroidered picture by, Persen House site, Kingston, N.Y., 191n51 Perth Museum and Art Gallery, Perth, Scotland, 124 Petrie, Sir Flinders, 11, 92 Petrie Collection at University College Museum, University of Manchester, 195n14 Pevensey, Sussex, England, 66 Philadelphia, 98, 99 pinchbeck, 195n30 pincushions, 14, 25, 29–34, 32, 34, 160, 161, 181n10, 184n56, 184n58, 184n60, 185n63, 193n68 pin money, 184n55 pinner (garment), 14 pinners’ bones, 16 pin packaging, 25, 29 pin poppet See needlecases pins archaeometallurgical study of, 182n31 finds of Anglo-Saxon, 13, 180n6 for babies’ clothing, 14, 15 bone, 180n6, 181n8 Bronze Age, 11 Celtic, 11, 12 Elizabethan, 12 Kurgan, in burials, 11 medieval, 12–13, 180n5, 181n18 mourning, 15, 25–26 Neolithic, 11, 12 Norse, 12 Paleolithic, 11 Roman, 11, 12 shroud, 35, 36, 37, 185n65 Viking, 13, 180n6 wooden, 12, 180n6 Index Pins and Pincushions, 26 pin-suites, 181n17 Plymouth, England, 193n68 Plymouth, Mass., 112 Josiah Winslow home site, 76 pneumoconiosis, 48 Pointer’s disease See pneumoconiosis Pointer’s rot See pneumoconiosis poor relief, 158 Pope, Peter, 194n80 Portsmouth, England, 95 Oyster Street, 80, 125, 188n1 Portsmouth, N.H Jackson House, 76 Powers, Asahel Lynde, 132 Praetzellis, Mary, 190n35 ‘‘Praying Indians,’’ 112 Prehistoric Textiles, 137 prestation, 113 probate inventories, 33, 121, 139, 147, 153, 154 table 6.3, 188n5 prostitution archaeology of, 164, 166, 173–174 link with needlework, 158, 173, 174 Providence, R.I., 99 Puerto Rico, 153 Quarry Site, Munsville, N.Y., 191n51 Québec City Champlain’s Habitation, 64, 76 Estèbe House, 123 Place-Royale, 80 quilt patterns, 162–163, 163 racism, 173, 204n5 Raffel, Marta Cotterell, 156, 202n26 Rameses III, girdle of, 12 Ramscheid, Germany, 119 raths, Irish, 180n6, 198n4 Rattray, Aberdeenshire, Scotland, 80, 188n1 Réamur, René-Antoine Ferchault de, 17 recovery techniques, archaeological, 40, 43, 187n76 Index Redditch, England, 50 Renews, Newfoundland, 65 Rhode Island Historical Society, 97 Richardson family of Philadelphia (silversmiths), 98, 196n36 Richard III of England, 17 Richmond, Va., 26 Riordan, Timothy, 185–186n66, 186n71, 187n73 Roelofs, Sara, 68 Rogers, Gay Ann, 88, 97, 165 Ross Female Factory, Tasmania, 171 Royal Worcester porcelain, 96 sailors, sewing by, 175–176 sailor’s palm, 91, 203n48 Salamis, Cyprus, 11 Salem, Mass., 45 sampling bias, 43 San Francisco, Calif., 176 South of Market neighborhood, 64, 160, 167, 190n40, 203n44 Santa Elena, S.C., 44 Sarre cemetery, Thanet, Kent, England, 198n9 Saugus, Mass., 17 Schmorl’s nodes, 187n74 scissorsmiths, probate inventories of, 121 seamstresses, 10, 39, 63, 89–90, 158, 168, 169, 170, 171, 173, 175, 187n75, 200n41, 204n5 Sears and Roebuck catalog, 108, 166 Seville, Spain, 109, 119 Sewall, Jane, 69 Sewall, Nicholas (Major), 69 Sewall, Susannah, 69 sewing, gendered nature of, 4, 169, 174– 176, 196n41 sewing birds, 3, 161–162 See also clamps, sewing shagreen, 111, 197n60 shears, finds of in France, 116 in Iran, 116 235 Iron Age, 116, 117 medieval, 117 in Roman Egypt, 116 sheepshearing, 116–117, 123, 124, 198n4 Sheffield, England, 119, 120, 121, 125, 128, 132, 198n12, 199n17, 199n19, 199n24 Silchester, England, 61 silk trade, 91, 146 Simons Brothers Company of Philadelphia, 107 Smith, Adam, 19, 20 Smithsonian Institution, 92 Society for Historical Archaeology, Solingen, Germany, 119 Southampton, England, 13, 193n61 Hamwih Saxon settlement, 75, 193n61 Six Dials area, 193n63 Southington Cutlery Company, 120 souvenirs, 111, 164 Spain, 80, 109, 119 Spencer-Peirce-Little Farm, Newbury, Mass., 1, 6, 7, 106, 135, 136, 159, 159 spinning, 138–143, 147 spools (thread) See thread winders Springfield, Mass., 99 Staffordshire, England, 96 St Augustine, Fla., 44, 186n66 steamboat passengers, 169–170 Stern Brothers and Company of New York, 108 St George, Robert Blair, 85 stilettos, 163–164, 190n44, 203n50 St John’s site, 40–41, 97, 135–136, 187n77, 188n1, 191n49 Van Sweringen site, 97 St Mary’s City, Md cemetery, 186n66, 186n68, 186n71, 187n73 St Nicholas Parish Church, Lanark, Scotland, 185n65 stockfish, 46 Stockstadt, Germany, Limes fort at, 76 Stow, John, 47 Strough, England, 29 236 Index Studley, England, 49, 50 Stump family farm, Glasgow, Del., 171–172 Stuyvesant, Peter, 68 Survey of London and Westminster, 47 Sweet Track, Somerset, England, 12 Sydney, Australia Armsden House, 61 Cumberland/Gloucester Street sites, 61, 158, 196n54 Rocks neighborhood, 61, 106, 159, 200n41 Syria, 89 tailors, 10, 39, 73, 120, 126, 168, 171, 172, 173, 174, 174, 175, 180n1, 187n74, 189n23, 196n41, 200n41 Taino Indians, 98 Tattershall, Edward, 183n49 Tayler, Daniel Foote (D F.), 20, 21 Tepe Yahya, Iran, 46 Thame, Oxfordshire, England, 153, 202n38 Thiers, France, 119 thimble cases, 110–111 Thimble Collectors’ Encyclopedia, 89 thimble rings, 91–92, 93, 95, 96, 97, 102– 103 table 4.1, 183n33 thimbles Australian, 99 chronology of, 102–103 table 4.1 and femininity, 100 finds of Indian, 99 Islamic, 92 Viking, 92 interpretive potential of, 89, 111–114 styles of Abbasid-Levantine, 92–93 Hispano-Moresque, 92 Turko-Slavic, 92 Thomas, Nicholas, 113 thread winders, 160 thumbscrews, 161–162 Thurrock, Mucking, England, 198n9 Tibet, 64 Tilbury Fort, Tilbury, Essex, England, 42, 123 Tjørnuvík, Faroe Islands, 12 Toledo, Spain, 119 Traditional Country Craftsmen, 66 Treasury of the United States, 153 Triplex Middle Slave Cabin, Hermitage Plantation, Tenn., 62–63, 64, 158, 164, 166, 187n75, 202n40 Trondheim, Norway, 65, 199n28 Tryon, Rolla Milton, 153 Tylecote, R F., 21, 182n31, 182n32, 185n65 Tyres Gate property (#8), Bermondsey, England, 193n67 Ubelaker, Douglas, 36, 39 Ulrich, Laurel Thatcher, 84, 85 Union Army (U.S Civil War), 120 Untermeyer Robbins Company of New York, 108 Unwin, Joan, 121 U.S Army, 170 Useful Arts (booklet), 20 Valenciennes, France, 152 Van Beuningen–de Vriese Collection, Rotterdam, 191n47 Vermont, 132 verulanium, 193n63 vingerhoeds, 95, 195n30 Von Hoelle, John, 89, 92, 93, 194n6 Waite Thresher and Company, Providence, R.I., 108 Waltham Abbey, England, 29 Waterman, Charles, patented sewing bird, 161, 162 waterpower, 49, 119, 147 weaving, 143–151 Bronze Age, 144 Iron Age, 144 medieval, 143, 145 Neolithic, 143 Index postmedieval, 145 Roman, 144 Saxon, 143, 144, 145 tablet, 12 Upper Paleolithic, 90 Viking, 144 See also linen production Webster Company, North Attleboro, Mass., 108 Wellman, Howard, 192n52 Wentworth, Maria, tomb of, Toddington, Bedfordshire, England, 169 Weoley Castle, Birmingham, England, 65, 199n28 West Cumberland, England, 164 West Midlands of England, 49, 50 West Oakland, Calif See Cypress Freeway Replacement Project, West Oakland, Calif Wethersfield, Conn., 19 White, Carolyn, 184n51, 185n64 Wigmaker’s Art, 183n49 Wilkinson, Jeremiah, 19 William and Mary, rulers of England, 96 William Rogers Manufacturing Company, Hartford, Conn., 120 Williamsburg, Va See Colonial Williamsburg Wiltshire, England, 201n13 Winchester, England, 145 237 Winterthur Museum, 71, 125, 162 Wiss, Frederick, 120 Wiss, Jacob, 120 witch bottles, 180n1 witches (and pins), 10, 180n1 Woman’s Institute of Scranton, Pa., 137 women’s activities, archaeology of, 1, Woodfield, Charmian, and Ian Goodall, 183n33 Woollen Act of 1660, 185n65 Woolworth, Alan, 189n28 Worcester, England, 96 Worcestershire-Warwickshire border area, England, 49 workbaskets, 111, 137, 169, 204n1 workhouses, 158, 173 world system, 113 Worshipful Guild of Needlemakers, 49 Wright, Lemuel W., 20, 21 Wylie, Alison, Yamin, Rebecca, 158, 164 York Archaeological Trust, 190n31 York, England Anglo-Danish, 75 Viking (Jorvik), 60, 61 Zalkin, Estelle, 92, 106, 110, 195n16 zen huan See thimble-rings .. .Findings Findings The Material Culture of Needlework and Sewing Mary C Beaudry Yale University Press New Haven & London Published with assistance from the foundation established in memory of. .. archaeologists assume are women’s things or part of the sewing assemblage In the following chapters, I examine items of the material culture of needlework and sewing that are most likely to survive in... interpretation In the concluding chapter, I attempt to ‘‘stitch together the evidence’’ by turning to a wider consideration of the significance of sewing and needlework in the lives of men and women,