VISIT TO THE HOLY LAND, EGYPT, AND ITALY By Madame Ida Pfeiffer. Translated from the German by H. W. Dulcken. PREFACE BY THE VIENNA PUBLISHER For two centuries the princes and nations of the West were accustomed to wander towards the land of the morning. In vain was the noblest blood poured forth in streams in the effort to wrest the country of our heavenly Teacher from the grasp of the infidel; and though the Christian Europe of the present day forbears to renew a struggle which, considering the strength that has been gradually increasing for the last six hundred years, might prove an easy one, we cannot wonder that millions of the votaries of Christianity should cherish an earnest longing to wander in the paths the Redeemer has trod, and to view with their own eyes the traces of the Saviour’s progress from the cradle to the grave. In the generality of cases, however, the hardships, dangers, and difficulties of such a journey were sufficient to overthrow the bravest resolution; and thus the wishes of the majority remained unfulfilled. Few men were found to possess the degree of strength and endurance requisite for the carrying out of such an undertaking; but that a delicate lady of the higher classes, a native of Vienna, should have the heroism to do what thousands of men failed to achieve, seemed almost incredible. In her earliest youth she earnestly desired to perform this journey; descriptions of the Holy Land were perused by her with peculiar interest, and a book of Eastern travel had more charms for her than the most glowing accounts of Paris or London. It was not, however, until our Authoress had reached a riper age, and had finished the education of her sons, that she succeeded in carrying into effect the ardent aspiration of her youth. On the 2d of March, 1842, she commenced her journey alone, without companions, but fully prepared to bear every ill, to bid defiance to every danger, and to combat every difficulty. That this undertaking should have succeeded may almost be looked upon as a wonder. Far from desiring publicity, she merely kept a diary, in order to retain the recollections of her tour during her later life, and to impart to her nearest relatives the story of her fortunes. Every evening, though often greatly exhausted with heat, thirst, and the hardships of travel, she never failed to make notes in pencil of the occurrences of the day, frequently using a sand-mound or the back of a camel as a table, while the other members of the caravan lay stretched around her, completely tired out. It was in the house of my friend Halm that I first heard of this remarkable woman, at a time when she had not yet completed her journey; and every subsequent account of Madame Pfeiffer increased my desire to make her acquaintance. In manners and appearance I found her to resemble many other women who have distinguished themselves by fortitude, firmness of soul, and magnanimity; and who are in private life the most simple and unaffected, the most modest, and consequently also the most agreeable of beings. My request to read our Authoress’s journal was granted with some timidity; and I am ready to assert that seldom has a book so irresistibly attracted me, or so completely fixed my attention from beginning to end, as this. The simple and unadorned relation of facts, the candour, combined with strong sound sense, which appear throughout, might put to shame the bombastic striving after originality of many a modern author. The scheme and execution of the work are complete and agreeable; strict truth shines forth from every page, and no one can doubt but that so pure and noble a mind must see things in a right point of view. This circumstance is sufficient in itself to raise the book above many descriptions of travel to the Holy Land, whose authors, trusting to the fact that their assertions could not easily be disproved, have indulged their fancy, seeking to impart interest to their works by the relation of imaginary dangers, and by exaggeration of every kind, for the sake of gaining praise and admiration. Many such men might blush with shame on reading this journal of a simple, truth-loving woman. After much trouble I succeeded in persuading the Authoress to allow her journal to appear in print. My efforts were called forth by the desire to furnish the reading public, and particularly the female portion, with a very interesting and attractive, and at the same time a strictly authentic picture of the Holy Land, and of Madame Pfeiffer’s entire journey. CONTENTS CHAPTER I. Departure from Vienna—Scene on board the steamer—Hainburg— Presburg—The “Coronation-mount”—Pesth—Ofen—The steamer Galata— Mohäcs—The fortress Peterwardein—Discomfort and bad management on board the steamer—Semlin—Belgrade—Pancsova—Austrian soldiers—The rock Babakay— Drenkova—Falls of Danube—Alt-Orsova—The “Iron Gate”—Cattle-breeding— Callafat—Vexatious delay CHAPTER II. Giurgewo—Interior of the town—Braila—Sanitary precautions— Galatz—Scarcity of good water—Ridiculous fear of the plague—The steamer Ferdinand—Entrance into the Black Sea—Stormy weather and sea- sickness—Arrival at Constantinople—Picturesque appearance of the city— Mosques—The dancing Dervishes—The Sultan and his barge—Pera—The great and little Campo—Wild dogs—Dirty state of the streets—Preparations in case of fire CHAPTER III. Scutari—Kaiks—The howling Dervishes—The Achmaidon, or place of arrows—The tower in Galata—The bazaar at Constantinople—Mosques—Slave- market—The old Serail—The Hippodrome—Coffee-houses—Story-tellers— Excursion to Ejub—Houses, theatres, and carriages CHAPTER IV. Walks and drives of the townspeople—The “Sweet Waters”— Chalcedonia—Baluklid—The great and little Campo—Feasts in Constantinople— Anniversary of Mahomet’s death—Easter holydays of the Greeks—Gladiators and wrestlers—Excursion to Brussa—Olive-trees—Mosques at Brussa—Stone bridge— Wild dogs—Baths and mineral springs—Return to Constantinople CHAPTER V. Contradictory reports—Departure from Constantinople on board theArchduke John—Scene on the steamer—Galipoli—The Dardanelles— Tschenekalesi and Kilidil Bahar—The field of Troy—Tenedos—Smyrna—Halizar— The date-palm—Burnaba—The Acropolis—Female beauty—Rhodes—Strong fortifications—Deserted appearance of the town—Cyprus CHAPTER VI. Arrival at Beyrout—Fellahs—Backsheesh—Uncomfortable quarters—Saida—Tyre—St. Jean d’Acre—Cæsarea—Excursion among the ruins— Jaffa—An Eastern family—The Indian fig-tree—An Oriental dinner—Costume of the women of Jaffa—Oppressive heat—Gnats—Ramla—Syrian convents—Bedouins and Arabs—Kariet el Areb, or Emmaus—The scheikh—Arrival at Jerusalem CHAPTER VII. Residence at Jerusalem—Catholic church—The “Nuova Casa”— Via dolorosa—Pilate’s house—The Mosque Omar—Herod’s house—Church of the Holy Sepulchre—Disturbances at the Greek Easter feasts—Knights of the Holy Sepulchre—Mount of Olives—Adventure among the ruins—Mount of Offence— Valley of Jehosaphat—Siloam—Mount Sion—Jeremiah’s Grotto—Graves CHAPTER VIII. Bethlehem—Rachel’s grave—Convent at Bethlehem—Beggars— Grotto of the Nativity—Solomon’s cisterns—St. John’s—Franciscan church at Jerusalem—Mourning women—Eastern weddings—Mish-mish—Excursion to the Jordan and the Dead Sea—Wilderness near Jerusalem—Convent of St. Saba CHAPTER IX. Ride through the wilderness to the Dead Sea—The Dead Sea—The river Jordan—Horde of Bedouins—Arab horses—The Sultan’s well—Bivouac in the open air—Return to Jerusalem—Bethany—Departure from Jerusalem—Jacob’s grave—Nablus or Sichem—Sebasta—Costume of Samaritan woman—Plain of Esdralon—Sagun CHAPTER X. Arrival at Nazareth—Franciscan convent—Tabarith—Mount Tabor—Lake of Gennesareth—Baths—Mount Carmel—Grotto of the prophet Elijah—Acre—The pacha’s harem—Oriental women—Their listlessness and ignorance—Sur or Tyre CHAPTER XI. River Mishmir—Saida—Arnauts—Desert-path—Residence of Lady Hester Stanhope—Beyrout—The consul’s—Uncomfortable quarters— Sickness—The Bazaar—Vexatious delays—Departure from Beyrout—Beautiful views—Syrian costumes—Damascus—Aspect of the city—House of the consul CHAPTER XII. The bazaar at Damascus—The khan—Grotto of St. Paul— Fanaticism of the inhabitants—Departure from Damascus—The desert—Military escort—Heliopolis or Balbeck—Stupendous ruins—Continuation of our voyage through the desert—The plague—The Lebanon range—Cedar-trees—Druses and Maronites—Importunate beggars—Thievish propensities of the Arabs CHAPTER XIII. The Lebanon—Druses and Maronites—Illness of Herr Sattler— Djebel or Byblus—Rocky passes—Dog’s-river—Return to Beyrout—Sickness— Departure for Alexandria—Roguery of the captain—Disagreeables on board— Limasol—Alarm of pirates—Cowardice of the crew—Arrival at Alexandria CHAPTER XIV. Alexandria—Keeping quarantine—Want of arrangement in the quarantine-house—Bad water—Fumigating of the rooms—Release—Aspect of the city—Departure by boat for Atfé—Mehemet Ali—Arrival at Atfé—Excellence of the Nile water—Good-nature of the Arab women—The Delta of the Nile—The Libyan desert—The pyramids—Arrival at Cairo CHAPTER XV. Cairo—Quarrel with the captain—Rapacity of the beggars—The custom-house—The consulate—Aspect of Cairo—Narrow and crowded streets— Costumes—The mad-house—Disgusting exhibition—Joseph’s well—Palace of Mehemet Ali—Dates—Mosques at Cairo—Excursion to the pyramids of Gizeh— Gizeh—Eggs hatched by artificial heat—Ascent of the pyramids—The sphynx— Return to Cairo CHAPTER XVI. Christian churches at Cairo—The Esbekie-square—Theatre— Howling dervishes—Mashdalansher, the birthday of Mahomet—Procession and religious ceremony—Shubra—Excursion through the desert to Suez—Hardships of the journey—Scenes in the desert—The camel—Caravans—Mirage—The Red Sea— Suez—Bedouin Camp—Quarrel with the camel-driver—Departure for Alexandria CHAPTER XVII. Return to Alexandria—Egyptian burials—Catacombs of Alexandria—Viceroy’s palace—Departure from Alexandria—The steamer Eurotas— Candia—Syra—Paros and Antiparos—The Morea—Fire on board—Malta— Quarantine—St. Augustine’s church—Clergymen—Beggars—Costumes—Soldiers— Civita Vecchia CHAPTER XVIII. The steamer Hercules—Syracuse—Neapolis—Ruins—Catanea— Convent of St. Nicholas—Messina—The Duke of Calabria—Palermo—The royal palace—Church of St. Theresa—St. Ignazio—Catacombs of the Augustine convent— Skeletons—Olivuzza—Royal villa “Favorite”—St. Rosalia—Brutality of the Italian mob—Luxuriant vegetation—Arrival at Naples CHAPTER XIX. Sojourn at Naples—Sickness—Laziness of the people—Royal palace—Rotunda—Strada Chiaga and Toledo—St. Carlo Theatre—Largo del Castello—Medina Square—Marionettes—St. Jesu Nuovo—St. Jesu Maggiore—St. Maria di Piedigrotta—Public gardens—Academy “degli Studii”—Cathedral of St. Januarius—St. Jeronimi—St. Paula Maggiore—St. Chiara—Baths of Nero— Solfatara—Grotto “del Cane”—Resina—Ascent of Vesuvius—Caserta CHAPTER XX. Caserta—Costume of the peasants—Rome—Piazza del Popolo— Dogana—St. Peter’s—Palaces—Borghese, Barberini, Colonna, etc.—Churches— Ancient Rome—The Colliseum—Departure for Florence—Bad weather—Picturesque scenery—Siena—Florence—Cathedral and palaces—Departure from Florence— Bologna—Ferrara—Conclusion LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 1. JERUSALEM 2. NAZARETH 3. CHURCHYARD AT SCUTARI 4. THE DEAD SEA 5. MOUNT CARMEL 6. LEBANON 7. BALBECK 8. ISTHMUS OF SUEZ CHAPTER I. Departure from Vienna—Scene on board the steamer—Hainburg—Presburg—The “Coronation-mount”—Pesth—Ofen—The steamer Galata—Mohäcs—The fortress Peterwardein—Discomfort and bad management on board the steamer—Semlin— Belgrade—Pancsova—Austrian soldiers—The rock Babakay—Drenkova—Falls of the Danube—Alt-Orsova—The “Iron Gate”—Cattle-breeding—Callafat—Vexatious delay. I had for years cherished the wish to undertake a journey to the Holy Land; years are, indeed, required to familiarise one with the idea of so hazardous an enterprise. When, therefore, my domestic arrangements at length admitted of my absence for at least a year, my chief employment was to prepare myself for this journey. I read many works bearing on the subject, and was moreover fortunate enough to make the acquaintance of a gentleman who had travelled in the Holy Land some years before. I was thus enabled to gain much oral information and advice respecting the means of prosecuting my dangerous pilgrimage. My friends and relations attempted in vain to turn me from my purpose by painting, in the most glowing colours, all the dangers and difficulties which await the traveller in those regions. “Men,” they said, “were obliged gravely to consider if they had physical strength to endure the fatigues of such a journey, and strength of mind bravely to face the dangers of the plague, the climate, the attacks of insects, bad diet, etc. And to think of a woman’s venturing alone, without protection of any kind, into the wide world, across sea and mountain and plain,—it was quite preposterous.” This was the opinion of my friends. I had nothing to advance in opposition to all this but my firm unchanging determination. My trust in Providence gave me calmness and strength to set my house in every respect in order. I made my will, and arranged all my worldly affairs in such a manner that, in the case of my death (an event which I considered more probable than my safe return), my family should find every thing perfectly arranged. And thus, on the 22d of March 1842, I commenced my journey from Vienna. At one o’clock in the afternoon I drove to the Kaisermühlen (Emperor’s Mills), from which place the steamboats start for Pesth. I was joyfully surprised by the presence of several of my relations and friends, who wished to say farewell once more. The parting was certainly most bitter, for the thought involuntarily obtruded itself, “Should we ever meet again in this world?” Our mournful meditations were in some degree disturbed by a loud dispute on board the vessel. At the request of a gentleman present, one of the passengers was compelled, instead of flying, as he had intended, with bag and baggage to Hungary, to return to Vienna in company of the police. It appeared he owed the gentleman 1300 florins, and had wished to abscond, but was luckily overtaken before the departure of the boat. This affair was hardly concluded when the bell rang, the wheels began to revolve, and too soon, alas, my dear ones were out of sight! I had but few fellow-passengers. The weather was indeed fine and mild; but the season was not far enough advanced to lure travellers into the wide world, excepting men of business, and those who had cosmopolitan ideas, like myself. Most of those on board were going only to Presburg, or at farthest to Pesth. The captain having mentioned that a woman was on board who intended travelling to Constantinople, I was immediately surrounded by curious gazers. A gentleman who was bound to the same port stepped forward, and offered his services in case I should ever stand in need of them; he afterwards frequently took me under his protection. The fine mild weather changed to cold and wind as we got fairly out into the great Danube. I wrapped myself in my cloak, and remained on deck, in order to see the scenery between Vienna and Presburg, which, no doubt, appears lovely enough when [...]... and these places were dignified by the name of “bazaars.” Curiosity led us into a wine-shop and into a coffee-house In both of these we found only wooden tables and benches; there were hardly any guests; and the few persons present belonged to the humblest classes Glasses and cups are handed to the company without undergoing the ceremony of rinsing We purchased some eggs and butter, and went into the. .. foreground, on the top of the mountain, lie the spacious and handsome barracks, which can contain 10,000 men The beautiful mosques, with their graceful minarets the palaces and harems, kiosks and great barracks the gardens, shrubberies, and cypress-woods the gaily painted houses, among which single cypresses often rear their slender heads,—these, together with the immense forest of masts, combine to form... portray the magnificent gorgeousness of the sight To land at Topona, and to be immediately surrounded by hired servants and hamaks (porters), is the fate of every traveller The stranger is no longer master either of his will or his luggage One man praises this inn, the other that {40} The porters hustle and beat each other for your effects, so that the custom-house officers frequently come forward with their... kaiks follow the procession The flags of the Turkish fleet and merchant-ships are hoisted, and twenty-one cannons thunder forth a salutation to the Sultan He does not stay long in the mosque, and usually proceeds to visit a barrack or some other public building When the monarch goes by water to the mosque, he generally returns also in his barge; if he goes by land, he returns in the same manner The most... to two uninhabited islands in the Sea of Marmora, the males to one and the females to another But dirt and filth increased in the city to such a degree, that people were glad to have them back again The town is not lighted Every person who goes abroad at night must take a lantern with him If he is caught wandering without a lantern by the guard, he is taken off without mercy to the nearest watch-house,... inclination to try again There was not the slightest chance of obtaining any sleep all night The dreadful howling of the wind among the masts and cordage, the fearful straining of the ship, which seemed as though its timbers were starting, the continual pitching and rolling, the rattling of the heavy cables above us, the cries, orders, and shouting of the captain and his sailors, all combined to form a... allow us to enjoy a moment’s rest In the morning, ill as I felt myself, I managed to gain the deck with the help of the steward, and sat down near the steersman to enjoy the aspect of that grandest of nature’s phenomena—a storm at sea Holding tightly on, I bade defiance to the waves, which broke over the ship and wetted me all over, as though to cool my feverish heat I could now form a clear and vivid... opposite the fortress of Fetislav, on board the steamer Zriny At five o’clock in the evening we passed the fortress of Widdin, opposite which we stopped, in the neighbourhood of the town of Callafat It was intended merely to land goods here, and then to proceed immediately on our voyage; but the agent was nowhere to be found, and so we poor travellers were made the victims of this carelessness, and compelled... for the night At an early hour on April 1st we sailed past Hirsova, and at two o’clock stopped at Braila, a fortress occupied by the Russians since the year 1828 Here passengers were not allowed to land, as they were considered infected with the plague; but our officer stepped forward, and vouched for the fact that we had neither landed nor taken up any one on the right bank of the river; thereupon the. .. according to his creed, we have not even a soul I had only stood a few moments, when the Sultan appeared on horseback, surrounded by his train He alone rode into the courtyard; the others all dismounted at the gate, and entered on foot The horse on which the Sultan rode was of rare beauty, and, as they told me, of the true Arabian breed; the saddle-cloth was richly embroidered with gold, and the stirrups, . VISIT TO THE HOLY LAND, EGYPT, AND ITALY By Madame Ida Pfeiffer. Translated from the German by H. W. Dulcken. PREFACE BY THE VIENNA PUBLISHER For two centuries the princes and. of the West were accustomed to wander towards the land of the morning. In vain was the noblest blood poured forth in streams in the effort to wrest the country of our heavenly Teacher from the. of the votaries of Christianity should cherish an earnest longing to wander in the paths the Redeemer has trod, and to view with their own eyes the traces of the Saviour’s progress from the