root meaning “mixed,” “confused” — was an Italian yolk-thickened spiced wine in the 15th century, and by 1800 was sometimes foamy and sometimes not (Even some modern zabaglione recipes are not whipped but stirred, and come out more like a winey crème anglaise.) The French discovered zabaglione around 1800, and by 1850 had incorporated it into their system of sauces as a dessert cream with the more refined-sounding name sabayon In the 20th century they extended the principle to savory cooking broths and stocks, and to lighten classical yolk-based butter and oil sauces, including hollandaise and mayonnaise (For the sauces, see p 639.) Zabaglione Technique The standard method for making zabaglione is to mix equal volumes of sugar and yolks, add the wine — usually Marsala, and anywhere from the same to four times the volume of yolks — set the bowl above a pan of simmering water, and whip for several minutes until the mix becomes foamy and thick During the mixing and initial foaming, the elaborately nested spheres of yolk proteins are unpacked for action Dilution, the wine’s acidity and alcohol, and air bubbles all disrupt the yolk granules and lipoprotein complexes into their component molecules so that those molecules can coat the air bubbles and stabilize them When the temperature reaches 120ºF/50ºC, high enough to unfold some of the yolk proteins, the mix thickens, traps air more efficiently, and begins to expand As the proteins continue to unfold and then bond to each other, the foam rises into fluffy mounds The key to a maximally light zabaglione is to stop the heating just when the foam teeters on the cusp between liquid and solid Further cooking will produce a stiffer, denser, eventually tough sponge as the proteins overcoagulate Zabaglione is traditionally made in a ... some of the yolk proteins, the mix thickens, traps air more efficiently, and begins to expand As the proteins continue to unfold and then bond to each other, the foam rises into fluffy mounds The key to a maximally light zabaglione is to... until the mix becomes foamy and thick During the mixing and initial foaming, the elaborately nested spheres of yolk proteins are unpacked for action Dilution, the wine’s acidity and alcohol, and. .. The key to a maximally light zabaglione is to stop the heating just when the foam teeters on the cusp between liquid and solid Further cooking will produce a stiffer, denser, eventually tough sponge as the proteins overcoagulate