THE PANJAB, NORTH-WEST FRONTIER PROVINCE AND KASHMIR BY SIR JAMES DOUIE, M.A., K.C.S.I SEEMA PUBLICATIONS C-3/19, R P Bagh, Delhi-110007 First Indian Edition 1974 Printed in India at Deluxe Offset Press, Daya Basti, Delhi-110035 and Published by Seema Publications, Delhi-110007 EDITOR'S PREFACE In his opening chapter Sir James Douie refers to the fact that the area treated in this volume—just one quarter of a million square miles—is comparable to that of AustriaHungary The comparison might be extended; for on ethnographical, linguistic and physical grounds, the geographical unit now treated is just as homogeneous in composition as the Dual Monarchy It is only in the political sense and by force of the ruling classes, temporarily united in one monarch, that the term Osterreichischcould be used to include the Poles of Galicia, the Czechs of Bohemia and Moravia, the Szeklers, Saxons and more numerous Rumanians of Transylvania, the Croats, Slovenes and Italians of "Illyria," with the Magyars of the Hungarian plain The term Punjábi much more nearly, but still imperfectly, covers the people of the Panjáb, the North-West Frontier Province, Kashmír and the associated smaller Native States The Sikh, Muhammadan and Hindu Jats, the Kashmírís and the Rájputs all belong to the tall, fair, leptorrhine Indo-Aryan main stock of the area, merging on the west and south-west [Pg vi]into the Biluch and Pathán Turko-Iranian, and fringed in the hill districts on the north with what have been described as products of the "contact metamorphism" with the Mongoloid tribes of Central Asia Thus, in spite of the inevitable blurring of boundary lines, the political divisions treated together in this volume, form a fairly clean-cut geographical unit Sir James Douie, in this work, is obviously living over again the happy thirty-five years which he devoted to the service of North-West India: his accounts of the physiography, the flora and fauna, the people and the administration are essentially the personal recollections of one who has first studied the details as a District Officer and has afterwards corrected his perspective, stage by stage, from the successively higher view-point of a Commissioner, the Chief Secretary, Financial Commissioner, and finally as Officiating Lieut.-Governor No one could more appropriately undertake the task of an accurate and well-proportioned thumb-nail sketch of North-West India and, what is equally important to the earnest reader, no author could more obviously delight in his subject T H H ALDERLEY EDGE, March 9th, 1916 [Pg vii] NOTE BY AUTHOR My thanks are due to the Government of India for permission to use illustrations contained in official publications Except where otherwise stated the numerous maps included in the volume are derived from this source My obligations to provincial and district gazetteers have been endless Sir Thomas Holdich kindly allowed me to reproduce some of the charts in his excellent book on India The accuracy of the sections on geology and coins may be relied on, as they were written by masters of these subjects, Sir Thomas Holland and Mr R B Whitehead, I.C.S Chapter XVII could not have been written at all without the help afforded by Mr Vincent Smith's Early History of India I have acknowledged my debts to other friends in the "List of Illustrations."[Pg viii] J M D May 1916 [Pg ix] CONTENTS CHAP PAGE I Areas and Boundaries II Mountains, Hills, and Plains III Rivers 32 IV Geology and Mineral Resources 50 V Climate 64 VI Herbs, Shrubs, and Trees 71 VII Forests 86 VIII Beasts, Birds, Fishes, and Insects 90 IX The People: Numbers, Races, and Languages 96 X The People: Religions 114 XI The People: Education 122 XII Roads and Railways 127 XIII Canals 132 XIV Agriculture and Crops 142 XV Handicrafts and Manufactures 152 XVI Exports and Imports 159 XVII History: Pre-Muhammadan Period, 500 B.C.- 160 1000 A.D XVIII History: Muhammadan Period, 1000 A.D.- 168 1764 A.D XIX History: Sikh Period, 1764 A.D.-1849 A.D XX History: British Period, 1849 A.D.-1913 A.D 188 XXI Archaeology and Coins 200 XXII Administration: General 212 XXIII Administration: Local 217 XXIV Revenue and Expenditure 219 XXV Panjáb Districts and Delhi 224 XXVI The Panjáb Native States 271 XXVII The North-west Frontier Province 291 181 XXVIII Kashmír and Jammu 314 XXIX Cities 325 XXX Other Places of Note 347 TABLES I Tribes of Panjáb including Native States and 359 of N.W.F Province II Rainfall, Cultivation, Population, and Land 360 Revenue III Agricultural Diagrams 362 IV Crops 364 V Revenue and Expenditure of Panjáb 366 Index 367 [Pg xi] LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FIG PAGE Arms of Panjáb Orographical Map (Holdich's India) Nanga Parvat (Watson's Gazetteer of Hazára) 11 Burzil Pass (Sir Aurel Stein) 13 Rotang Pass (J Coldstream) 15 Mt Haramukh (Sir Aurel Stein) 16 R Jhelam in Kashmír—View towards Mohand 18 Marg (Sir Aurel Stein) Near Náran in Kágan Glen, Hazára 19 (Watson's Gazetteer of Hazára) Muztagh-Karakoram and Himalayan Ranges in 21 Kashmír (Holdich's India) 10 The Khaibar Road (Holdich's India) 23 11 Panjáb Rivers (Holdich's India) 33 12 The Indus at Attock (Sir Aurel Stein) 37 13 Indus at Kafirkot, D.I Khán dt (Sir Aurel Stein) 38 14 Fording the River at Lahore (E B Francis) 42 15 Biás at Manálí (J Coldstream) 44 16 Rainfall of different Seasons (Blanford) 62, 63 17 Average Barometric and Wind Chart for January 65 (Blanford) 18 Average Barometric and Wind Chart for July 66 (Blanford) 19 Banian or Bor trees (Sir Aurel Stein) 75 20 Deodárs and Hill Temple (J Coldstream) 80 21 Firs in Himálaya (J Coldstream) 82 22 Chinárs (Sir Aurel Stein) 83 23 Rhododendron campanulatum (J Coldstream) 84 24 Big Game in Ladákh 92 25 Yáks (J Coldstream) 93 26 Black Buck 95 27 Map showing density of population (Panjáb 97 Census Report, 1911) 28 Map showing increase and decrease of population 98 (Panjáb Census Report, 1911) 29 Map showing density of population in N.W.F 99 Province (N.W Provinces Census Report, 1911) 30 Map showing density of population in Kashmír 100 (Kashmír Census Report, 1911) 31 Jat Sikh Officers (Nand Rám) 103 32 Blind Beggar (E B Francis) 107 33 Dards (Sir Aurel Stein) 108 34 Map showing races (from The People of India, by 109 Sir Herbert Risley With permission of W Thacker and Co., London) 35 Map showing distribution of languages (Panjáb 111 Census Report, 1911) 36 Map showing distribution of religions (Panjáb 115 Census Report, 1911) 37 Raghunáth Temple, Jammu 116 38 Golden Temple, Amritsar (Mrs B Roe) 117 39 Mosque in Lahore City (E B Francis) 118 40 God and Goddess, Chamba (H.H the Rája of 120 Chamba) 41 A Kulu godling and his attendants (J Coldstream) 121 42 A School in the time preceding annexation 124 43 Poplar lined road to Srínagar (Miss M B Douie) 128 44 Map showing railways 129 45 Map—Older Canals 134 46 Map—Canals 137 47 Map of Canals of Pesháwar district 141 48 Persian Wheel Well and Ekka (Sir Aurel Stein) 143 49 A drove of goats—Lahore (E B Francis) 144 50 A steep bit of hill cultivation, Hazára 146 (Watson's Gazetteer of Hazára) 51 Preparing rice field in the Hills (J Coldstream) 147 52 Carved doorway (Sir Aurel Stein) 151 53 Shoemaker's craft (Baden Powell Panjáb 153 Manufactures) 54 Carved windows (Sir Aurel Stein) 155 55 Papier maché work of Kashmír (Baden 156 Powell Panjáb Manufactures) 56 The Potter 157 57 Coin—obverse and reverse of Menander 163 58 Mártand Temple (Miss Griffiths) 166 59 Bába Nának and the Musician Mardána 174 60 Guru Govind Singh 176 61 Mahárája Ranjít Singh 182 62 Mahárája Kharak Singh 185 63 Nao Nihál Singh 185 64 Mahárája Sher Singh 185 65 Zamzama Gun (E B Francis) 187 66 Sir John Lawrence (from picture in National 189 Portrait Gallery) 67 John Nicholson's Monument at Delhi (Lady 190 Douie) 68 Sir Robert Montgomery 191 69 Panjáb Camels at Lahore (E B Francis) 193 70 Sir Charles Aitchison (Bourne and Shepherd) 194 71 Sir Denzil Ibbetson (Albert Jenkins) 198 72 Sir Michael O'Dwyer (R Rámlál Bhairulál and 199 Son) 73 Group of Chamba Temples (H.H the Rája of 201 Chamba) 74 Payer Temple—Kashmír (Sir Aurel Stein) 202 75 Reliquary (Government of India) 203 76 Colonnade in Kuwwat ul Islám Mosque 204 77 Kutb Minár (Miss M B Douie) 205 78 Tomb of Emperor Tughlak Sháh (Miss M B 206 Douie) 79 Jama Masjid, Delhi 207 80 Tomb of Humáyun (Miss M B Douie) 207 81 Bádsháhí Mosque, Lahore (E B Francis) 208 82 Coins 210 83 Skeleton District Map of Panjáb 223 84 Delhi Enclave 225 85 Hissár district with portions of the Phulkian States 226 etc 86 Rohtak district 228 87 Gurgáon district 230 88 Karnál district 231 89 Ambála district with Kalsia 233 90 Kángra district 235 91 Biás at Manálí (J Coldstream) 237 92 Religious Fair in Kulu (J Coldstream) 238 93 Kulu Women (J Coldstream) 239 94 Hoshyárpur district 240 95 Jalandhar district and Kapurthala 242 96 Ludhiána district and adjoining Native States 243 97 Ferozepore district and Farídkot 244 98 Gurdáspur district 246 99 Siálkot district 247 100 Gujránwála district 248 101 Amritsar district 250 102 Lahore district 251 103 Gujrát district 252 104 Jhelam district 254 105 Ráwalpindí district 255 106 Shop in Murree Bazár (Lady Douie) 256 107 Attock district 257 108 Mianwálí district 259 109 Sháhpur district 261 110 Montgomery district 263 111 Lyallpur district 264 112 Jhang district 265 113 Multán district 266 114 Muzaffargarh district 268 115 Dera Ghází Khán district 269 116 Mahárája of Patiála (C Vandyk) 272 117 Mahárája of Jínd 277 118 Mahárája Sir Hira Singh of Nábha (Bourne and 278 Shepherd) 119 Mahárája of Kapúrthala 279 120 Rája of Farídkot (Julian Rust) 280 121 Nawáb of Baháwalpur 281 122 Native States of Chamba, Mandí, Suket, Biláspur 284 123 Rája Surindar Bikram Parkásh of Sirmúr 285 124 Rája of Chamba (F Bremner) 287 125 Bashahr (Sketch Map by H W Emerson) 289 126 Sir Harold Deane (F Bremner) 292 127 North-west Frontier Province 293 128 Dera Ismail Khán district 294  Katás; 201  Káthias; 263  Keonthal State; 287  Keppel, Sir George Roos; 197  Khaibar; 23, 309  Rifles; 308, 309, 313  Khairímúrat hills; 30, 258  Khánkí weir; 195, 310  Khánwáh Canal; 263  Kharrals; 263  Khatrís; 105, 106  Khattaks; 297, 298  Kheora Salt Mine; 51, 351  Khojas; 104  Khosas; 170  Khost; 311  Khowar; 308  Khurmana river; 311  Khushálgarh railway bridge; 130  Kila Drosh; 307, 308  Kirána hill; 261  Kishngangá river; 40, 261, 319  Kohála; 40, 257  Kohát district; 296-298  salt; 57, 58, 296  town and cantonment; 356  Kolahoi mountain; 14  Kúka rising; 192, 193  Kulu; 17, 235, 237, 238  Kunar river; 23, 37, 307  Kunáwar; 289  Kunhár 40, 301  Kurram militia; 313  river; 39, 260, 295, 311  valley; 24, 296  Ladákh; 64, 65, 109, 112, 319-321  Laghárís; 270  Lahore city; 169, 173, 334-339  district; 251, 252  division; 245  railway bridge; 43  Lahul; 64, 236  Lake, Lord; 183  Land Alienation Act, XIII of 1900; 196  Land Revenue; 220, 221  Landai river; 38  Landí Kotal; 357  Languages; 110-113  Lárjí; 43  Lawrence Memorial School; 234  Lawrence, Sir Henry; 186, 188  Sir John; 188-191  Legislative Council; 195, 216  Leh; 35, 64, 65, 358  Leprosy; 101  Liddar valley; 40  Lieutenant Governors; 188-199  Local Self Government; 195, 217, 218  Lohárs; 106, 152  Loháru State; 283  Loláb valley; 40  Lowárí pass; 307, 308  Lower Bárí Dốb Canal; 138, 262, 267  Chenáb Canal; 136, 137, 195, 263, 265  Jhelam Canal; 137, 138, 197, 260  Swát Canal; 140, 141, 298  Ludhiána district; 242, 243  town; 153, 349  Lulusar lake; 301  Lunds; 270  Lurí bridge; 45  Lyall, Sir James; 194  Lyallpur district; 263, 264  town; 353  Macleod, Sir Donald; 191  Mahaban mountain; 36  Mahirakula; 164  Mahmúd of Ghazní; 168  Mahsud Wazírs; 196, 312  Malakand pass; 299, 305, 306, 357  Malerkotla State; 283  town; 354  Máli ká parvat; 301  Malka; 305  Mallagorís; 308, 309  Mamdot; 244  Mamunds; 306  Manálí; 43, 237  Mandí State; 283, 284  town; 354  Mangal; 287  Mansehra; 356  Mardán; 298, 299  Márkanda torrent; 47  Mártand temple; 166, 358  Marwats; 296  Mazárís; 270  Mazhbís; 106  Meghs; 107  Menander; 163, 164  Mendicants; 106  Meos; 229  Metals; 59  Mianwálí district; 258-260  Miram Sháh; 357  Miranzai; 297  Moghal Empire; 171-180  Mohmands; 308, 309  Mongol invasions; 170  Montgomery, Sir Robert; 191  Montgomery district; 261, 262  town; 353  Mudkí battle field; 186, 282  Muhammad Ghorí; 169  Muhammad Tughlak; 170, 171  Muhammadan Architecture; 204-208  Muhammadan States; 280-283  Muhammadans; 118, 119, 252, 262, 291  Muín ul Mulk; 179  Mulráj, Diwán; 186-282  Multán district; 266, 267  division; 262  Multán city; 154, 166, 183, 186, 340, 341  district; 266-267  division; 262  Municipalities; 217  Murree; 68, 256, 303, 351, 352  Musa ká Musalla mountain; 301  Musallís; 106  Mutiny of 1857; 227  Muzaffargarh district; 267, 268  Nabha State; 271, 277, 278  town; 354  Nádir Sháh; 178  Náhan State; 285  town; 354  Nálagarh State; 207  Nanga parvat (mountain); 12  Naráina, battlefield of; 232  Nardak; 232  Nathiagalí; 356  Naushahra; 298, 356  North West Frontier Province; 197, 291-313  North Western Railway; 120-131  Nun and Kun peaks; 12, 324  Occupations; 101, 102, 105, 106, 152-156  O'Dwyer, Sir Michael; 199  Ohind; 37  Orakzais; 196, 297, 309-311  Otu weir; 47  Pabar river; 288  Pabbí hills; 252  Pahárpur canal; 292  Paiwar Kotal; 24  Pakhlí plain; 302  Pákpattan; 353  Palosí; 36  Pángí; 14, 286  Panipat; 172, 179, 232, 348  Panjkora river; 38, 306, 307  Panjnad river; 41,  Parachas; 106  Parachinár; 311, 357  Pataudí State; 283  Patháns; 105, 260, 294, 299, 300, 304, 311  Patiála State; 180, 271-274  town; 354  Pattan Munára; 354  Payech, see Payer  Payer; 201, 358  Pesháwar city; 160, 164, 169, 184, 341, 342  district; 298, 299  Petroleum; 59  Phillaur; 46, 243  Phulkian States; 196, 271-278  Pihowa; 232, 348  Pírghal mountain; 24  Pití, See Spití  Plague; 97-99, 100, 195, 245  Population; 96-113  Pottery; 152, 156  Powindahs; 25  Pressure, barometric; 65-67  Punch; 358  Railways; 128-131  Rájput Hill Chiefs (Simla); 288  Rájputs; 104, 240, 241, 245, 248, 254, 288  Raldang mountain; 288  Rámpur ;45, 289  Ranbir Singh, Mahárája of Jínd; 277  Ranjít Singh, Mahárája; 181-184  Ráví river; 41-43, 247, 251, 262, 266, 267, 286  Ráwalpindi cantonment and town; 256, 352  district; 255-257  division; 252  Religions, Kashmír; 114  N W F Province; 114  Panjáb; 114-117  Ripon, Lord; 195  Ripudaman Singh, Mahárája of Nábha; 270  Rivaz, Sir Charles 197  Rivers; 32-49  Road, Grand Trunk; 127  Roads; 127, 128  Rogí cliffs; 45  Rohtak district; 228, 229  Roos-Keppel, Sir George; 197  Rotang pass; 14, 236  Rúpar; 46, 348  Sabaktagin; 167, 168  Sádik Muhammad Khán, Nawáb of Baháwalpur; 281, 282  Sad Istragh mountains; 22  Safarmulk lake; 301  Safed Koh range; 24, 311  Saiyyids; 105, 304  Sakesar; 29, 352  Sakkí stream; 250  Salt; 57, 58  Salt Range ;29, 30, 253, 254, 257, 258, 262  Geology of; 51-53  Flora of; 76, 77  Samána range; 297  Rifles; 297, 298  Sam Ránízai; 306  Sangrúr; 276, 354  Sansár Chand, Rája; 183  Sapphires; 60  Saráj; 235, 237  Sarusti torrent; 46, 47, 231, 232  canal; 47  Sasserlá; 20  Sattís; 256  Sháh Álam, Emperor; 181  Sháhjahán; 173  Sháh Shuja; 184  Sháhpur district; 260-262  Shawal; 24  Shekhbudín; 31, 356  Shekhs; 105  Sher Khán; 170  Sher Singh Mahárája; 184  Shigrí glacier; 236  Shipkí pass; 45  Shooting; 94, 95  Shuidár mountain; 24  Shyok river; 36  Sialkot district; 247  town and cantonment; 164, 350  Siáls; 266  Sídhnai canal; 139, 267  Sikandar Lodí; 171  Sikarám mountain; 24  Sikh Jats; 104, 250, 252, 276, 280  wars; 186, 187  religion; 117, 118  Sil torrent; 258  Simla district; 254  hill station; 67, 68, 342-344  Hill States; 287-290  Sind valley; 40  Sirhind canal; 135, 136, 195, 227, 245, 271, 275, 276, 280  Sirhind, town; 177, 180, 354, 355  Sirmúr State; 285  Siwaliks; 27, 52, 53  Skárdo; 36, 321  Smallpox; 101  Sốn torrent (Hoshrpur); 241  (Ráwalpindí), see Sohán  Sobráon, battle of; 186  Sohág Pára Canals; 262  Sohán torrent; 38, 253, 256  Southern Panjáb Railway; 130  Spití; 55, 235, 236  river; 45, 288  Stúpas; 202  Súds; 106  Sulimán range; 26, 27, 270, 290  Sultánpur (Kulu); 238  Sultánpur (Kapúrthala); 278  Sunárs; 106  Surindar Bikram Parkásh, late Rája of Sirmúr; 285, 286  Sutlej inundation canals; 267  river; 45, 46, 245, 262, 266, 281, 288  Takht i Sulimán mountain; 26  hill (Kashmír); 318  Tamerlane See Timúr  Tanáwal; 302, 303  Tanáwal hills; 302  Tarkanrís; 307  Tarkháns (carpenters); 106, 152  Terí; 296  Thakkars; 107  Thal desert; 149, 259-261, 262, 265, 267  Thal (Kohát); 297, 311, 356  Thandiáni; 356  Thanesar; 165, 168, 232, 348  Tilla hill; 29  Timúr (Tamerlane); 171  Tirach Mir mountain; 22, 308  Tirah Campaign; 176  Tiwánas; 260  Tochí valley; 24, 296  Tons, river; 48  Torrents, action of; 47, 48  Trade; 159  Traders; 105, 106  Tribal militias; 312  Triple Canal Project; 138, 197  Túmans Biloch; 270  Turís; 311  Uch; 355  Uchiri range; 307  Udyána; 304  Ujh torrent; 42  Umra Khán; 196  Unhár river; 302  University, Panjáb; 125, 126  Upper Bárí Dốb Canal; 135, 191, 247, 249, 251  Chenáb Canal; 138, 139, 249  Jhelam Canal; 138, 139, 252  Swát Canal; 141, 298  Utman Khel; 306  Vaccination; 101  Wána; 24, 196, 312, 357  Wattús; 263  Wazíristán; 312  hills; 24  militias; 313  Wazírs Darwesh Khel; 312  Madsud; 312  Weavers; 102, 152, 154  Wellesley, Marquis of; 182  Arthur; 183  Wells; 143, 144  Western Jamna Canal; 135, 227, 232, 273, 276  Wular lake; 40  Yakúb Khán, Amir; 194  Yárkhun river; 305, 307  Yasín river; 307  Young, Sir Mackworth; 195  Yúsafzais; 299, 304, 305, 306  Zaimukhts; 310  Zakaria Khán; 178  Zakha Khel; 309  Zamzama gun; 187  Zanskár; 320  Himálaya; 10, 286  river; 36  Zojilá; 12 FOOTNOTES: [1]They are held to be of Turkish origin [2]Raverty's "The Mehran of Sind and its Tributaries," in Journal of Asiatic Society of Bengal, 1897 [3]Sand Buried Ruins Of Khotan, pp 14-15 [4]See Sykes' History of Persia, pp 179-180; also Herodotos III 94 and 98 and IV 44 [5]"The Indians clad with garments made of cotton had bows of cane and arrows of cane tipped with iron."—Herodotos VII 65 [6]This gun, known to the readers of Kim, stands on the Lahore Mall Whoever possesses it is supposed to be ruler of the Panjáb [7]See page 166 [8]Some estates lying to the east of the Jamna and belonging to the United Provinces have recently been added to the enclave [9]H = Hindu, M = Muhammadan, S = Sikh [10]Not shown in map [11]See page 169 [12]This leading tribe in the Panjáb is known as Ját in the Hindi-speaking Eastern districts and as Jat elsewhere [13]Ch.=Christian [14]There is a project for improving the water-supply of inundation canals in the west of the district by building a weir across the Chenáb below its junction with the Jhelam [15]J.=Jain [16]For recent history see page 196 [17]See page 196 ... 257 10 8 Mianwálí district 259 10 9 Sháhpur district 2 61 110 Montgomery district 263 11 1 Lyallpur district 264 11 2 Jhang district 265 11 3 Multán district 266 11 4 Muzaffargarh district 268 11 5 Dera... the people of the Panjáb, the North-West Frontier Province, Kashmír and the associated smaller Native States The Sikh, Muhammadan and Hindu Jats, the Kashmírís and the Rájputs all belong to the. .. into the Bay of Bengal, and the Indus carrying the enormous discharge of the north-west Himálaya, the Muztagh-Karakoram, and the Hindu Kush ranges into the Indian Ocean Simla stands on the south-western