GUIDE TO NEW ORLEANS LITTLEKNOWN NOLA Secret spots and hidden gems EAT FUN FOOD FETES PLAY PARADES APLENTY RELAX SPRING FOR A SPA PROMOTION Cane & Table, the French Quarter’s Caribbean oasis MARCH 2019 wheretraveler.com Fresh Florida STONE CRABS Now Available Open p.m Daily | 322 Magazine Street | 504.522.7902 | chophousenola.com ART & EY&S 3708 Magazine St 504-891-4494 ArtAndEyesNewOrleansLA.com BEWARE THE EYES THAT MARCH INDY EYEWEAR LIKE NO WHERE ELSE JOSE BASSO and CLAUDIA HENRIQUEZ-JOHNSON opening reception 16 march 2019 6pm on exhibit through april 2019 221 Royal Street I New Orleans I 504.586.0202 I www.windsorfineart.com I info@windsorfineart.com New Orleans CONTENTS 03.19 SEE MORE OF NEW ORLEANS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM the plan             the guide 18 Ask the Expert DINING XX Geoff Polson Concierge at the Holiday Inn Express St Charles Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood Plus a month full of food fests 10 Editor’s Note A 90-minute exploration of Algiers Point to make the most of your time in New Orleans 28 SHOPPING XX Chic stores and unique boutiques Plus spring for a spa treatment and float-scale flowers 12 Hot Dates Hamilton Rapping revolutionaries, Pink, Freedia Gras, “the biggest free party on earth” and 30 other ideas to add to your list 15 GALLERIES + 34 ANTIQUES XX A citywide gallery crawl Plus George Rodrigue’s “Dream” job and bizarre beadwork 40 ENTERTAINMENT XX 64 New Orleans Your Way XX 50 Curated Crescent City itineraries for history lovers, LGBTQ travelers and outdoor enthusiasts Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations Plus St Louis Cathedral GUIDE TO NEW ORLEANS 17 LITTLEKNOWN NOLA Secret spots and hidden gems EAT FUN FOOD FETES PLAY PARADES APLENTY RELAX SPRING FOR A SPA PROMOTION Cane & Table, the French Quarter’s Caribbean oasis MARCH 2019 wheretraveler.com COVER PROMOTION Carrots en mole and other islandflavored fare from Cane & Table, one of the city’s under-the-radar dining gems ©RANDY P SCHMIDT where now Hidden gems and tucked-away treasures 15 Mardi Gras parades, three cultural celebrations, two music festivals and one for the books 17 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER XX 56 PLANTATION COUNTRY Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road Plus a colorful history 14 Local Knowledge 16 Out + About CONNECT WITH US NAVIGATE Dining on the down low, hot restaurant dish and a side of cheese fries, chased with Miller ponies W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019 MAPS Explore the city from north to south and A to Z pages 61-63 (LEFT) ©THE LIPPIN GROUP; (CENTER, TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (CENTER, BOTTOM) ©THE VINTAGE Tours, attractions, museums, bars and clubs Plus cooking up a good time and Aurora Nealand CANE & TABLE 1 D E C AT U R S T R E E T | F r e n c h Q u a r t e r , N e w O r l e a n s Cane & Table celebrates tropical classic cocktails and Caribbean cuisine with influences from the flavors and heritage of New Orleans RESERVATIONS (504) 581-1112 HOURS Sunday-Thursday DINNER FROM 5PM-11PM Friday & Saturday DINNER FROM 5PM-MIDNIGHT Saturday & Sunday BRUNCH FROM 10:30AM-3PM HAPPY HOUR Named one of Esquire’s best bars in America and a James Beard Foundation Award semifinalist of Outstanding Bar Program, Cane & Table is a culinary and cocktail gem that offers reprieve in the iconic and bustling New Orleans’ French Quarter Cane & Table is elevated revelry you don’t want to miss on a trip to New Orleans Monday - Friday, 3PM UNTIL 6PM caneandtablenola.com @caneandtable YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® NEW ORLEANS PIANO LOUNGE • PATIO • RESTAURANT EAT, DRINK & MVP | EDITORIAL & DESIGN Doug Brantley Jennifer Keller Vaz CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Lorin Gaudin, Nora McGunnigle EDITOR ART DIRECTOR MVP | CIRCULATION CIRCULATION MANAGER/SALES COORDINATOR Heather Goodwin ADVERTISING JAMES G ELLIOTT CO., INC Pat O'Donnell Lois Sutton 504.522.6468, l.sutton@jgeco.com EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR PUBLISHER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Stephanie Cantrell 504.522.6468, s.cantrell@jgeco.com Ashlea Kelly 504.522.6468, a.kelly@jgeco.com MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Donna W Kessler Dennis Kelly VICE PRESIDENT, OPERATIONS Angela E Allen HEAD OF DIGITAL Richard H Brashear II DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION Scott Ferguson PRESIDENT CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER MVP | CREATIVE Haines Wilkerson Margaret Martin MANAGING EDITOR Jennifer McKee DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Isaac Arjonilla CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MVP | MANUFACTURING & PUBLICATION SERVICES Donald Horton Karen Fralick PUBLICATION SERVICES MANAGER Mickey Kibler DIGITAL IMAGING Erik Lewis DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR E-mails for all MVP employees except contributors: firstname.lastname@morris.com MVP | NEW ORLEANS 324 Chartres St., 2nd floor, New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 522-6468; (504) 522-0018 (fax) MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN William S Morris III William S Morris IV PRESIDENT & CEO where traveler.com EST 1933 LOCALLY OWNED WWW.PATOBRIENS.COM W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019 Where® magazine is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications Co., LLC 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, morrismedianetwork.com Where magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications Where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions All rights reserved Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited MVP is a proud sponsor of Les Clefs d’Or USA We got your local strawberries right here! ADVERTISEMENT )2 )1 Winner years in a row, New Orleans Magazine Tops of the Town for Brunch 2016, 2017, 2018 125 Camp Street | 504-561-8844 | www.redgravycafe.com S RAMPART RSITY PL TOULOUSE UNIVE E EEF 400 ST LOUIS Y 500 BURGUNDY 100 O'K IBERVILLE LO 300 CONTI A OL BIENVILLE N RAMPART 200 Louisiana Superdome BARO NNE )6 DAUPHINE HermannGrima House )9 )8 Canal MP )2 )4 E HE )8 DECATUR Jackson B S Insecterium RS ETE N P WITH A $35 ROCK SHOP PURCHASE 125 BOURBON ST | +1-504-529-5617 #HardRockCafe | hardrock.com ©2018 HARD ROCK INTERNATIONAL (USA), INC ALL RIGHTS RESERVED Expires 12/31/19 * terms and conditions apply S ULA O PIT OU TCH )8 CHARTRES Z RA YD PO ZIN GA MA A EETC LIA GIFT * ROYAL DORSIERE JU FREE Vieux Carré Police Station CA TC NA Ernest N Morial Convention Center CANAL Bienville )8 EXCHANGE ALLEY ON COMM Toulouse Historic N.O Collection )3 ST CHARLES VIER GRA Dumaine IDO RD Ursulines ION Esplanade UN )9 PE RIVERFRONT STREETCAR STOPS )6 BOURBON CARONDELET RS ETE S P Harrah’s Casino Canal Place Shopping Aquarium of the Americas & Entergy Imax Algiers Theatre Riverwalk Ferry Creole Queen STR ONT RFR Steam RIVE Gray Line Tour Natch Departures Woldenberg Riverfront Park ADVERTISEMENT )3 )4 NN R on at 30 10 00 16 hartres t, New Orleans Reservations 30 www.kpauls.com )5 Ghost & Vampire Combo Tour FRENCH QUARTER Y N TH O N ST A BURGUNDY 1200 KERLEREC 1100 ESPLANADE 1000 BARRACKS URSULINES 900 ST PHILIP ST ANN DUMAINE 800 ORLEANS ST PETER RAMPART 700 1000 600 GOV NICHOLLS Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts Armstrong Park )5 PA U G ER 900 DAUPHINE TO 800 BU Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop BOURBON L YA MOONWALK Fren mboat hez Mississippi River FI EL D Old U.S Mint ch M ar ket Flea Gov N icho lls S t W har f Mar ket ESPLANADE IA N ES )1 )7 DECATUR Brewery EL YS TR AR MADISON H Pedestrian Mall RO Ursuline Convent C Pedestrian Mall PH AU Washington Square Park 500 WILKINSON ROW D 600 BeauregardKeyes House CHARTRES Jackson Square EN C ROYAL Gallier House Madame John's Legacy AR FR )9 H 700 PIRATE’S PERE ALLEY ANTOINE ALLEY American Aquatic Garden Rated Top Ten Ghost Tours in the World 718 N Rampart St, New Orleans, LA 70116 New Orleans #1 Haunted Tour 504.666.8300 Historic Algiers Point www.FrenchQuarterPhantoms.com )6 )7 KILLER POBOYS Internationally Inspired, Chef Crafted, New Orleans Style Sandwiches Local Artists Gifts Full service bead store (no Mardi Gras beads) 85 French Market Pl., 1228 Decatur St., New Orleans, LA 70116 504.561.0046 sales@theartistsmarketnola.com www.theartistsmarketnola.com 219 Dauphine (504) 462-2731 Wed - Mon | 10AM - 8PM 811 Conti @ Erin Rose Bar (504)252-6745 Wed - Mon | 10AM - Midnight ADVERTISEMENT )1LET THE SPIRITS MOVE YOU! )2 )3 TAO SPA Reflexology and therapy Relax feet, body & mind THREE LOCATIONS 837 Canal Street (plus, full service nail salon) 212 Chartres Street 140 Carondelet (body wraps and stone massages available) 210.843.8276 S RAMPART Y PL 100 O'K BARO NNE Use Code WHERE Online or Offline! * BOURBON )2 UN IDO RD ION PE or visit spiritsandspellstour.com meets nightly at 7pm CANAL CARONDELET 504-667-5570 !0 ST CHARLES at hex • 1219 decatur street EXCHANGE ALLEY MP CA E NA Z HE TC Harrah's Casino Creole Queen MUSTDONOLA.COM RS ETE S P Riverwalk !0 S ETER N P Canal Place Shopping Centre Aquarium of the Americas Algiers Ferry RIV TCAR TREE NT S O ERFR Entergy IMAX Theatre J Jackson Brewery Insecterium S RA YD PO PIT OU TCH )4 DECATUR ZIN S St Louis !1 Cathedral WILKINSON ROW DORSIERE GA MA LA OU PIRATE'S ALL ROYAL Vieux Carré Police Station )2 ON VIER GRA DESTINATION KITCHEN Historic N.O Collection CHARTRES COMM !1 BURGUNDY Pedestrian Mall * Not valid with other offers or booking agents 700 HermannGrima House )2 book by phone or online! 600 DAUPHINE PER PERSO 855.353.6634 )7 500 ST PETER ERSIT TOULOUSE UNIV FE EE 400 CONTI YO LO BIENVILLE LA 300 ST LOUIS N RAMPART 200 $7 offN Fun Fabulous Tour Experiences 907 Bourbon Street (504) 592-4666 IBERVILLE HAUNTED SITES! VOODOO LEGENDS! MAGICAL HISTORY! SECRET RITUALS! M Natchez Steamboat Gray Line Tour Departures Woldenberg Riverfront Park His Alg Po Mississippi River )4 )6 )5 Serving Lunch & Dinner Courtyard Brunch on Weekends Live Music Thursday - Sunday 504-524-9632 Cafe Du Monde 900 1000 Other notable landmarks: KERLEREC 1200 BARRACKS 1100 GOV NICHOLLS 1000 URSULINES 900 ST PHILIP DUMAINE ST ANN 800 ESPLANADE Since 1862, New Orleans’ most delicious coffee and beignets We ship our coffee blend and beignet mix anywhere 1-800-772-2927 www.cafedumonde.com 510 Toulouse St NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM D IN PH 800 AU Lafitte's Blacksmith E )3 Shop 700 ORLEANS ADVERTISEMENT LEY PERE ANTOINE ALLEY )6 ch M arke t 600 F lea Mar Gov Nic holl sS t W har f storic giers oint FR MADISON 500 F R E N C H ke t EL Y Fren R Old U.S Mint U AT MOONWALK )1 )6 DECATUR )8 EC D )5 A )8 )7 )9 Ursuline Convent H Pedestrian Mall BeauregardKeyes House C Jackson Squar e Gallier House Madame John's Legacy The French Quarter is one of the nation’s oldest residential communities Please treat this historic neighborhood with respect Q U A R T E R WA L K I N G T O U R )9 Arc of Greater New Orleans (ArcGNO) recycles parade throws, trinkets & beads for resale through its Mardi Gras Recycle Center, which provides jobs for individuals with autism, Down syndrome or other developmental disabilities )8 THE GUIDE Plantation Country Shades of the Past During the early 19th century, plantation homes lacked many modern amenities, but life along River Road was anything but dull and dreary A number of historic homes that are now open to the public illustrate just how vibrant the era actually was Take “Steamboat Gothic” San Francisco (shown), for example, with its myriad architectural influences, where skilled artisans were brought in to handpaint the ornate ceilings and faux-grain woodwork Or Houmas House, the “Crown Jewel of River Road,” where the striking interiors mirror the gorgeous grounds, which provide a year-round riot of color Laura reflects its Creole heritage with vivid exterior hues of ocher, red and blue, while antebellum homes erected by Americans, such as Nottoway (the “White Castle of Louisiana”) and Oak Alley, were typically painted white DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley Tours are offered daily, am-4 pm $20 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free and under Advance group rates available Closed all major holidays www.destrehanplantation.org 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095 EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and pm $20 adults, $6 ages and under; free for children under www.evergreenplantation.org 4677 Hwy 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837 HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably “Hush Hush, Sweet Charlotte”) Tours are offered daily, am-7 pm $24; $15 grounds only Overnight accommodations available Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details www.houmashouse.com 40136 Hwy 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380 There’s a lot more going on this month Visit us online: OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there The West African folk Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, am-5 pm $22 adults, $8 the site Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $5 ages 6-12 Group rates available by Lonely Planet travel guide Guided tours are www.oakalleyplantation.org 3645 Hwy 18, Vachoffered daily, 10 am-4 pm $20 adults, $6 children erie, La., 888.279.9802 ages 6-17 www.lauraplantation.com 2247 Hwy 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690 ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property Americans along River Road Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine am-4 pm $10 adults, $6 children www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com 4250 Hwy 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment $5 www.africanamericanmuseum.org 985.369.7151 406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553 NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De- signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm Reservations required www.hrsa gov/hansens/museum 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg 12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950 SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home, built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages and under Group discounts Closed major holidays www.san- RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the Civil War; today only a handful remain 56 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019 ©SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T RY Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc are subject to seasonal change Always call ahead to avoid disappointment Index Plantations & Museums 56 Near New Orleans 56 Baton Rouge & Beyond 57 Dining 58 franciscoplantation.org 2646 Hwy 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756 ST JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877 The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to pm $20 adults, $18 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children and under Group rates available Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter www.stjosephplantation.com 3535 Hwy 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078 WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12 www.whitneyplantation.com 5099 Hwy 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300 Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres Daily tours are offered am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov $5; children 12 and under free www.aftonvilla.com 9047 Hwy 61, St Francisville, La., 225.635.6773 BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site www butlergreenwood.com 8345 Hwy 61, St Francisville, La., 225.635.6312 COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r com 57 THE GUIDE P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings B&B accommodations available Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays $7 www cottageplantation.com 10528 Cottage Lane, St Francisville, La., 225.635.3674 GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays) Open Mar.-Oct., am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4 www.greenwoodplantation.com 6838 Highland Rd., St Francisville, La., 225.655.4475 MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits Guided historic tours are offered daily, am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12 Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10 www.myrtlesplantation.com 7747 Hwy 61, St Francisville, La., 225.635.6277 NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended Guided tours are offered daily, am-4 pm $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under www.nottoway.com 31025 Hwy South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730 OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children and under free www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site 11788 Hwy 965, St Francisville, La., 225.635.3739 ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under free www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index 12501 Hwy 10, St Francisville, La., 225.635.3332 RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life Open daily (except major holidays), am-4:30 pm $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages and under free sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437 Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 58 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019 yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties L (daily), D (Tu-Su) www.thecabinrestaurant.com 5405 Hwy 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007 CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays L (daily); Su brunch www.houmashouse.com 40136 Hwy 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841 CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak L (M-F), D (M-Sa) www.cafelafourche.com 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451 THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built until 2013 The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily www houmashouse.com 40136 Hwy 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841 FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921 Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered B, L, D (daily) 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236 GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463 PLANTATION TOUR S LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova- tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china D (W-Sa) www.houmashouse com 40136 Hwy 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841 THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant offers sweeping views of the plantation’s oaks and seasonally inspired Cajun and Creole fare, with daily lunch and dinner specials The bar, located in what was once the Randolph-family bowling alley, features classic Louisiana cocktails, local beers and an extensive wine list B, L, D (daily); Su brunch www.nottoway.com 31025 Hwy South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730 OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring Plantation country calls for serious sustenance Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery Worked up an afternoon appetite? Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road B, L (daily) www.oakalleyplantation.com 3645 Hwy 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country Be part of an unforgettable experience Open Daily | 25 mins from New Orleans FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095 or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org T hrow them back & make a difference! E veryone loves Mardi Gras but hauling heavy beads in your luggage is no fun S o, why not give them back and make a huge impact on the city and many of its citiz ens? Arc of Greater New Orleans (ArcGNO) recycles parade throws, trinkets & beads for resale through its Mardi Gras Recycle Center, which provides jobs for individuals with autism, Down syndrome or other developmental disabilities THE GUIDE MAP CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER A B C D E F G LSU Health Sciences Center 10 JU Mercedes-Benz Superdome Smoothie King Center BC N.O Pelicans Joy Theater Champions Square Rampart Streetcar Line Orpheum Theater HY HS Cancer Survivors Park la oyo car et tre S e Lin RO WG NO L Civic Theatre HT HW BI PM AC Canal Streetcar Line HD LP RZ DI OV HF FP RS LQ St r tca ree St L Cath ML OO LH ST MR WQ QC FI RC WH Cha BH BW EJ NA Wilkinson IN St rles WQ La Supreme Court Building BL LM IC AH SM PC MA CM JW SC DO HC RH DR e Lin MD AS HI CO PL SJ DT HE WC SB Toulouse St Wharf Canal WO Place LE CA LW National WWII Museum HH RA PZ RE EB CN SH MC Canal St Ferry Landing HL OR Outlet Collection at Riverwalk Poydras St Wharf Cana l St Ferr y HG HP Girod St Riverfront Wharf Streetcar Line HA Julia St Cruise Terminal & Parking Garage A B 62 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019 C New Orleans International Cruise Terminal 1/8 mi 200 m D E F G MAPS These maps correspond to the listings sections of Where® magazine Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination H J I K 10 N Ro be r ts on St N le Vil rre St qu Ur ar t tS s rai Ma St NC FS LK SP C St de lau MM e Av BO N m Ra AJ pa 90 CL rt St Louis hedral CY Bu PD t eS hin up t yS Da Madison LR nd u rg SO PV French Market HM l ya Ro St Gov Nicholls St Wharf ain St Sp Riverfront Streetcar Line R St Crescent Park hA oc KEY HM Hotel Street Direction French Quarter Transit Routes Riverfront - $1.25 St Charles - $1.25 Magazine - $1.25 Canal St - $1.25 Loyola - $1.25 Rampart - $1.25 H I J Jazzy Passes day - $3 day - $9 31 day - 55 Ride RTA buses and streetcars as much as you’d like AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BC B on Canal, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 BW Best Western St Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5 EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St Charles, 333 St Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HE Holiday Inn Express-St Charles, 936 St Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MC Marriott at the Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 e NA NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 AveNine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 90 n i l kNO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 n a r OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St Louis St., 529-5333 F4 PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 RH Royal St Charles Hotel, 135 St Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4 K w w w.wh e re t rave l e r com 63 [WHERE INSIDE] New Orleans Your Way History Buffs LGBTQ Visitors Outdoors Lovers Predating the city itself, the (1) French Market is the oldest public market in the U.S The recently revamped open-air venue retains its historic ambiance, while offering a number of food stalls, fresh produce and souvenir items There are dozens of “cities of the dead” to explore If you can visit only one, make it St Louis No 1— which counts voodoo priestess Marie Laveau and (still-living) actor Nicolas Cage among its aboveground tombs—and make it with the nonprofit (2) Save Our Cemeteries, which helps fund restoration and preservation The crumbling walls at the (3) Napoleon House hint at its early age (circa 1812) A warm muffuletta and an icy Pimm’s Cup in the courtyard make for a picture-perfect NOLA moment In June 1977 thousands gathered in (1) Jackson Square for the nation’s first protest against Anita Bryant’s anti-gay efforts; in June 2015 gays and lesbians once again congregated to celebrate the Supreme Court’s ruling on same-sex marriage Just off Jackson Square is (2) Stanley, named for Marlon Brando’s character in Tennessee Williams’ “A Streetcar Named Desire.” Order the Eggs Stanley, then give your own shout-out to the playwright in front of 632 St Peter Street, where he penned his masterpiece Take a Vieux Carré cocktail for a spin at the revolving (3) Carousel Bar in the Hotel Monteleone, where Williams was a regular, Liberace was first to tickle the ivories and Truman Capote claimed to have been conceived Set off on a high-speed (1) Airboat Adventures tour, which covers 20,000 acres of cypress swamp Opt for a small-boat, early-morning outing, when the swamp is most picturesque and the wildlife is hungry for company Ever petted a gator? You will (2) New Orleans Jogging Tours let you work in a history lesson while jogging the city The educational, two-hour treks start at the edge of the French Quarter then wind through the Central Business District and into the Garden District As one the most bike-friendly cities in the U.S., New Orleans counts a number of two-wheel vendors (3) Confederacy of Cruisers is among of the most popular, offering rentals as well as guided rides and cocktail/culinary excursions 64 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I M A R C H 2019 (LEFT, FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; ©SHAWN FINK; ©NAPOLEON HOUSE; (CENTER, FROM TOP) ©ART DE VIE/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©STANLEY; ©HOTEL MONTELEONE; (RIGHT, FROM TOP) ©AIRBOAT ADVENTURES; ©CHERYL GERBER; ©SHAWN FINK UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS ... ArtAndEyesNewOrleansLA.com BEWARE THE EYES THAT MARCH INDY EYEWEAR LIKE NO WHERE ELSE JOSE BASSO and CLAUDIA HENRIQUEZ-JOHNSON opening reception 16 march 2019 6pm on exhibit through april 2019 221... april 2019 221 Royal Street I New Orleans I 504.586.0202 I www.windsorfineart.com I info@windsorfineart.com New Orleans CONTENTS 03.19 SEE MORE OF NEW ORLEANS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM the plan    ... MAKE TODAY AN AUDUBON DAY — — — WHERE CALENDAR MARCH For more information: wheretraveler.com Search the full New Orleans calendar at wheretraveler.com TOP STOPS 28 additional ideas worth entertaining