✓eat in✴eat out✴eat away AUGUST 2012 ` 100 Delicious India! from classic to new ✴ Vicky Ratnani's chic Indian salads ✴ Manish Mehrotra's Bihari menu o ro sh Mu Flavoured rasams m Meetha gone global Biryanis on trial Eat like a Bengali Mumbai's Friends Union thali Multiculti Delhi on the plate an da loo ch aat sal ad p 90 Trishna's step-by-step butter-garlic crab p 144 WorldMags.net WorldMags.net Big Indian love Calling India a food paradise is like saying the sea is wet Mind-numbing variety in cuisines? We've got it Spices that changed the course of history? That too The world's most exciting fruit? Yep Astounding street food, groundbreaking chefs, swanky restaurants And curry Yes, curry CURRYLICIOUS! We salute—and salivate over— India’s amazing curries, p 92 I marvel at the sheer hugeness of our incredible world of flavours and spices, at how I'll never be able to know it all And that's a wonderful thing This issue is our loving tribute to the nation Some reasons to tuck in: Curries old and new: It's deliciously ironic The 'authentic' Indian curry that has rocked the planet from the Balti houses of Birmingham to the karee raisu stalls of Japan would be unrecognisable in its country of origin So what does curry mean to Indians? Turn to Meher Dasondi's special feature on curries to get a true taste curry It’s got the planet in a spice-crazed swoon Cook — and drool — along with us as we celebrate the sensational Indian curry in all its punchy hues Recipes MEHER DASONDI Photographs PRATEEKSH SHOP Salads gone desi: At the height of the monsoon when produce is bountiful, it's fun to kick off some well-worn salad customs and find new roles for beloved Indian ingredients in them Chef Vicky Ratnani's modern Indian salads feature stars of Indian cooking and tweak them subtly, cleverly, so each dish remains true to a classic salad even while offering fresh tastes and textures Uber sexy eat in modern veggie eat in modern veggie MEHRA Props courtesy GOOD EARTH, FAB INDIA, THE RASAM RUSH Our flavoured rasams are hot stuff Like seriously P 64 eat in entertaining L2 entertaining.indd 92 14/07/12 11:05 AM this flavoured versions that tweak Love rasam? You’ll flip for our ever so deliciously fiery tomato classic from the south Recipes NAREN THIMMAIAH Photographs ‘‘ SUDEEP GURTU Ask folks from the south of India what their comfort food is and the answer is most likely to be rasam This tangy-spicy and simple dish is famous for its rejuvenating properties It’s a soup for some, a meal with rice for many or a palate cleanser before the main course Little wonder then that rasam is popular all over the country For this feature I have shared my recipe for basic rasam along with other exciting variants to suit everyone’s palate – green mango, pepper and pineapple rasam ‘‘ Chef, Naren Thimmaiah, Executive The Gateway Hotel, Bengaluru 13/07/12 9:58 PM Rasam-STAN 13/07/12 9:58 PM 044-047-L3 044-047-L3 Rasam-STAN Bihar on your plate: Extending the revelry of Anurag Kashyap's headline-making gamcha party for Gangs of Wasseypur at Cannes, we spotlight the relatively lesser-known cuisine of Bihar Indian Accent chef Manish Mehrotra does the honours with an earthy menu from his beloved native state (It was my first encounter with litti chokha and I’m totally smitten.) R1.indd 65 R1.indd 64 Little big biryanis: No five-star restaurant offers biryanis to compare to the ones served in the local eateries of India You'll spend no more than a couple hundred rupees, the plates will be strictly functional and you'll drink nimbu pani or lassi instead of wine or beer But the biryanis you'll eat here are cooked by masters and are some of India's most delicious Turn to p 108 eat out spy restaurant There's heaps more From local Indian grains that bring a nutritional boost to the table to our wonderful homemade achars, from slurp-friendly flavoured rasams to an easy menu from Bengal The owner of Haji Noor Mohammed Biryaniwale, Haji sahib with his degh PM 13/07/12 9:48 058-062-L1 res spy-STAN R1.indd 108 BIG ON BIRYANI? It’s the little joints that serve up the meanest plates P 108 To the wonderful people who contributed to this edition, and to you, dear reader, who will cover it with stains from repeated use, we dedicate this sumptuous spread Please, help yourself Sona Bahadur, editor WorldMags.net green chilli tsp, chopped coriander leaves 6g chaat masala tsp black salt (kala namak) tsp olive oil 15ml THE MARINA DE curd 150g mustard oil 30g ginger-garlic paste 30g red chilli paste 15g Kashmiri red chilli powder tsp garam masala powder tsp black salt a pinch fenugreek (kasuri methi) 6g lemon juice to taste cumin powder 6g coriander powder 6g THE RAITA beetroot 180g olive oil curd 1/2 cup black salt a pinch chaat masala tsp dill tsp, chopped coriander tsp, chopped ■ Cut the salmon into neat cubes Whisk all the ingredients together for the marinade Marinate the salmon for 30-40 minutes ■ Cook for minutes on the grill or sauté in a hot pan for 3-4 minutes with olive oil Do not overcook ■ To prepare the dressing, heat some olive oil, add mustard seeds, cumin seeds and curry leaves Once they splutter, add the onions, ginger, garlic and chillies and cook for a minute or so ■ Deglaze the pan with lime juice Add coconut milk and simmer for two minutes ■ Cool and blend the dressing Season it with salt and pepper ■ Toss the arugula, the vegetable s and the prawns with the cooled dressing Garnish with fresh coriander ■ PER SERVING 247.17 kcals, protein 12.70g, carbs 10.70g, fat 17.63g, sat fat 11.35g, fibre 2.70g, salt 0.3g Seared salmo mango chaat n and Serves ■ 25 minutes + marinatin g ■ EASY Tandoori-flavoured salmon chunks with the sweetnes s of silky Alphonso mangoes make for a remarkab le salad High in Omega-3 fatty acids and antioxidants, it scores on the health front as well The beet yoghurt is just the proverbia l icing on the cake salmon 300g red bell pepper 150g, roasted Alphonso mangoes or any other sweet, ripe mango 150g coconut cream (malai) 60g raw mangoes 30g ■ Cut the red bell pepper and the mango into cubes Tear the malai into strips Slice the raw mango into paperthin slices using a mandolin slicer ■ Roast or boil the beetroot until soft Peel and purée along with the olive oil, curd, black salt, chaat masala, dill leaves and coriander Blend to a smooth, silky purée ■ Pan sear the salmon for to minutes until pink but not totally cooked ■ Toss with the fresh coriander , chopped chillies, coconut malai, peppers and diced mango ■ Spoon the red beet raita over along with sprigs of coriander, dill and a drizzle of black salt, chaat masala and olive oil ■ PER SERVING 582.50 kcals, protein 26.43g, carbs 27.43g, fat 41.43g, sat fat 15.50g, fibre 5.75g, salt 1.9g L1 weekend.ind d 86 SALAAM, SALAD! Make way, Mr Caesar Modern Indian salads are here! 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Log in now! 122 eat in eat out Inspiring, seasonal recipes that work every time Restaurants on trial, cafés with character and signature recipes 44 MEALS FOR ` 700 108 RESTAURANT SPY 52 LUNCHBOX 116 PRO VS PUNTER 54 READY IN 30 120 OFF THE EATEN TRACK A week’s worth of budget meals Smart lunchbox solutions Quick and easy recipes 64 MODERN VEGGIE Try our flavoured rasams 72 WEEKEND MENU A line up of Bihari delights 82 WEEKEND In search of the perfect biryani Delhi’s Yeti on trial Mumbai’s Friends Union Joshi Club thali 123 SIGNATURE DISH Punjab Grill’s Salmon Tikkas Salads with a desi twist 92 ENTERTAINING The united colours of curry 102 SHOW-OFF Anjum Anand’s Indian desserts 148 SUBSCRIBE to Good Food India WorldMags.net PRO vs PUNTER Feel like the average diner doesn’t always agree with professional reviews? Become our punter in the ‘Pro vs Punter’ section and review a restaurant along with a seasoned pro To apply, write to us at bbcgoodfood@wwm.co.in August 2012 28 ON TEST Mango pickles 29 BARGAIN HUNTER Wallet-friendly food and drink deals 30 NEED TO KNOW The punchy world of Indian achars 34 FOOD ISSUES 129 eat away Foodie holiday ideas and recipes from around the world 126 EAT LIKE A LOCAL: KOLKATA & DARJEELING Easy yet standout Bengali dishes 132 CITY ON THE PLATE: DELHI The capital’s multicultural food scene 137 BUDGET AND BLOWOUT A foodie’s guide to Chennai 140 POSTCARD FROM BENGALURU Karen Anand eats her way through the Garden City first bite 10 OVER TO YOU Reader recipes, comments and letters 21 FIRST BITE Local Indian grains 24 NEWS, TRENDS AND SHOPPING New products, gadgets we love and more Good Food investigates Indian fruit 38 NIGHT OUT Coffee gets a boozy kick 40 BOOKS & COOKS This month’s delicious new reads 41 WHAT’S ON August’s must-watch food television masterclass 97 Shahi mirch bhara paneer Out & about JUST A FEW GOOD PLACES TO EAT FEATURED THIS MONTH 143 COOK LIKE A PRO Kumaon The handiest microwave rice cooker Darjeeling Delhi 144 CHEF SKILLS n Karam Sethi’s step-by-step Garlic, Black Pepper and Butter Crab with Paratha Lucknow n n n n Bihar 146 DO IT YOURSELF Four Indian pickles to try at home n Mumbai Kolkata n 147 WINE GUIDE Vikram Doctor’s pick of the best Indian wines 150 TOP PRODUCER Natural preserves and pickles from Umang n Bengaluru Hyderabad n n Chennai n Kochi 154 MY LIFE ON A PLATE Actor Shazahn Padamsee on the food she loves THE BBC GOODFOOD LEGACY T BBC GoodFood is the UK’s largest selling food magazine with a readership of over 1.1 million T bbcgoodfood.com is the UK’s most popular recipe site attracting 3.7 million unique users per month T The hugely successful iPhone & iPad apps have had over 70,000 downloads till date WorldMags.net over to you readers write Over to you For top restaurant, recipe and travel tips, we ask you, our readers, to keep us on the pulse Write to us! We love hearing from you E-mail us your feedback, your favourite recipes and your comments at bbcgoodfood@wwm.co.in Let’s be in touch! FOOD NATION Kochi Good Food reader Veena Nair shares her tips on where to eat in her hometown GOOD FOOD STAR RECIPE Chicken narangi pyaaza Serves n 40 minutes + hour for marinating n EASY chicken 800g, boneless salt a pinch ginger-garlic paste 100g cinnamon 1-inch piece cloves cardamom ghee 120g onions 300g, sliced baby onions 300g, halved chilli powder 20g turmeric powder 20g tomatoes 200g, finely chopped yoghurt 160g cashew paste 60g oranges 8, juiced and diced garam masala powder 5g aniseed (saunf) powder 10g ginger powder 5g ginger 20g, julienned lime wedges to garnish mint sprigs to garnish n Dice the chicken and marinate with salt and ginger-garlic paste Keep aside for an hour Temper the cinnamon, cloves and cardamom in ghee Add sliced onions and baby onions n Add chilli powder, turmeric and fry for minutes Add the chicken and sear well Then add the chopped tomatoes and cook till the chicken is done, about 25 minutes n Add in the yoghurt, cashew paste and orange juice Add garam masala powder, saunf and ginger powder Serve hot garnished with the ginger juliennes, orange dices and mint sprigs accompanied with lime wedges n PER SERVING 769.65 kcals, protein 80.60g, carbs 37.01g, fat 31.85g, sat fat 10.15g, fibre 7.55g, salt 0.4g HOW YOU PIMPED IT I made a fresh plum sauce to add a new dimension to the recipe I substituted the boneless chicken with chicken drumsticks and ghee with olive oil, then baked the chicken after sautéing the masalas and onions in olive oil I also cooked the juices from the chicken dish with the cashew and plum sauce before serving Ruchi Mathur is a food blogger who blogs at ruchisimplyfood.blogspot.com 10 BBC GoodFood breakfast starts with characteristic south Indian delicacies like dosas and idlis and proceeds to lesser-known dishes like idiappam and mutta curry (string hoppers and egg roast) The best place for this is the Gokul Oottupura (Tel: +91 484 2203841) chain of restaurants Affordable, clean and easily accessible, it is the best place for an authentic vegetarian breakfast T LUNCH Though the traditional ela sadya (a feast served on a plantain leaf) used to consist of 11 to 24 dishes, today, due to lack of time, we tend to prefer fewer choices But the karimeen pollichathu (spicy fish steamed in plantain leaf), chemmeen ularthu (dry roasted prawns), tharavu varattiyathu (pepper duck) and mutton piralan (lamb in gravy) still hold a special place in our hearts Try them at Grand Pavilion (Tel: +91 484 2382061) restaurant, at Hotel Grand on M G Road T DINNER Ever heard of Kethel’s chicken? It’s a unique, patented, tender chicken fry from the Rahmaniya Group of restaurants They have four outlets across Kerala and have been in the business for more than 60 years In Kochi, Rahmaniya (kethelschicken.com) is situated on Banerjee Road, Kaloor JOIN OUR TASTE TEAM Our Taste Team comprises readers and home cooks who try our recipes and give us feedback on what they liked and what they would differently Read p 99 to see Pinky Gaikwad’s twist on the Kaikiri stew On this page, Ruchi Mathur shares how she adapted the Chicken narangi pyaaza featured on p 94 Go to p 76 to see what Chandrama Mohanty thought of our Litti chokha with tamataar-khajur chutney Write to us at bbcgoodfood@wwm.co.in to join us WorldMags.net AUGUST 2012 Photograph JUDY REDDER T BREAKFAST A typical Kerala of ‘spherification’ and ‘sous vide’ (slow cooking under vacuum at a precise temperature) with the ease of a Michelin-starred chef I love his Deconstruction of Insalata Caprese, the Potato And Wasabi Soup and the Duck Confit Incidentally, Caperberry is the first restaurant in India to serve Indian truffles, which have recently been discovered in the forests of Chikmagalur I find that a good way to sample the food is the prix fixe lunch or better still, the tasting menu at dinner Abhijit also has a more casual-style Mediterranean restaurant called Fava in UB City I recommend this one, too In fact, I find UB City much better to eat at rather than shop You will find all the big international brands there, but I usually head straight to the food court after I have glanced quickly at the shop windows Jean Michel Jasserand is French Above: Edo’s bento box Bottom left to right: Toscano serves superlative pizzas; With Abhijeet Saha of Caperberry by birth but almost a true-blue Bengaluru soul by now I first met him when he was the executive chef at The Leela Bengaluru a few moons ago He used to create some unusual things (including an entire French cheese board) for the Sunday brunch at Citrus which used to be and probably still is quite a social event Along with his young protégé Goutham Balasubramanian, he has opened Toscano, an Italian style trattoria and Café Noir, a Parisian style patisserie, both in UB City (UB City, 24,Vittal Mallya Road) I also try out the quirkily named Pink Poppadom (Tel: +91 80 25558888) at the smart new Ista Hotel, very centrally located off MG Road I don’t know if I would call it fusion; perhaps ‘modern Indian’ is more appropriate Whatever you choose to call it, it is a feat of creativity Chef Biswas who is responsible for creating this menu, won Best Chef of the year last year in Bengaluru and deservedly so His Foie Gras Galouti Stack with Honey, Flashed Bakarkhani and Tandoori Duck and Quail with Pomegranate Dressing are outstanding as is the Gucchi Farci (morel mushrooms stuffed with almond and apricot in a white makhani sauce) I also love his Kasundi Fish Paupiette (a classic Bengali dish made with a twist) I only leave after trying the Strawberry Phirni and the Paan Shot – a gulp of paan in a glass The prices are ridiculously low for this kind of food Last and by no means the least, is Edo (Tel: +91 80 22119898) the WorldMags.net Japanese restaurant at the ITC Gardenia Gardenia is probably one of the most beautiful ITC properties in the country and an environmantallyfriendly LEED Platinum Green Hotel To my mind, Edo is the finest Japanese restaurant in the country today and probably the best kept secret in the fine dining brigade It serves sublimely executed dishes Izakaya style, in café-like interiors done up in pinewood In addition to superlative sashimi and sushi, they also have nimono (dishes steamed and served in broth) robatayaki (a sort of mixed grill) and tempura, crisp and perfectly seasoned And don’t miss dessert (not normally a star in Japanese restaurants) especially the homemade sour cherry and the black sesame ice creams along with the green Tea Ra Misu Chef Miyazaki presides over the whole restaurant What’s more, you don’t have to take out a mortgage to eat here; it is priced quite reasonably Obviously, the city is also a source of great food products I always pop in to Namdhari (namdharifresh com) There are several outlets throughout the city but I usually end up going to the one in Indira Nagar or Koramangala They stock pots of fresh herbs and keep a good variety of products, imported and local, as well as very fresh organic fruit and vegetables from their own farms Everything is seasonal so you may not find the same products everytime I look out for the huge variety of fresh chillies, especially their red and green jalapenos For serious foodies with a bottomless budget, the French brand of cookware, Le Creuset (cookware.lecreuset.com) has opened its own dedicated store on Lavelle Road I also find good ground coffee (with and without chicory) and roasted beans in most supermarkets Cotha’s and Sidapur from Coorg are the brands I look out for So yes, in conclusion, if I had to pick my favourite foodie city in India, it would have to be Bengaluru masterclass COOK LIKE A PRO Smart ways to improve your kitchen skills Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photograph GARETH MORGANS In this section T Karam Sethi’s butter-garlic-pepper crab masterclass p 144 T Homemade Indian pickles p 146 T New wine varieties in India p 147 VED O R P P A MICROWAVE RICE COOKER All cooks have their go-to technique for cooking each grain of rice to fluffy perfection While some insist on draining the boiling water at the last minute, many assert that if your ratio of water to rice is precise, there’s no need to so Sadly, no single method is foolproof since the type of rice used (short-grained, basmati etc) dictates its cooking time This is where the microwave rice steamer comes in Simply throw in a cup of rice and two cups of water, screw on the lid and watch it bubble away at express speed (timings vary depending on the microwave) We tested it with different rice varieties and were happy to report zero cases of khichdi-like sludge Also, no more supervising the stove for potential spillage! Microwave rice cooker, ` 215 onwards Available at stores selling cookware and kitchen appliances AUGUST 2012 WorldMags.net BBC GoodFood 143 KARAM SETHI’S Masterclass Karam Sethi, head chef of London’s Trishna restaurant, shows how to pick cooked crab, then creates a sumptuous dinner dish with it Karam Sethi was born in London and spent his childhood summers in Delhi His kitchen experience includes stints at Bukhara in Delhi, Trishna in Mumbai and Zuma in London He took over as head chef of Trishna in London from early last year SIVE P U L C EX BY-STE STEP-ECIPE R 144 BBC GoodFood Garlic, black pepper and butter crab with paratha Serves as a starter or as a light lunch n 40 minutes n A LITTLE EFFORT The paratha recipe makes more than you’ll need but you can freeze the leftovers for another time butter 190g, melted vegetable oil tsp garlic paste tbsp (made by crushing fresh garlic cloves) crab x 750g-1kg, steamed black pepper tbsp chives tbsp, finely chopped THE PARATHAS plain flour 600g egg 1, beaten golden caster sugar tbsp (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) chives tbsp, chopped butter or ghee tbsp, melted condensed milk tbsp (optional) ghee or oil for frying, 125ml salt to taste n Pick the crab meat from the crab and keep the white and brown meat in separate bowls (see our masterclass on the next page) n To make the paratha, sift the flour in to a bowl, add the egg, salt, sugar, chives and melted butter Combine 250ml water with the condensed milk and add it in WorldMags.net n Mix to make a soft dough Roll the dough into a ball and cover with a damp cloth and leave to rest for about 30 minutes to hour n Divide the dough into 12 small balls Brush with ghee or oil, cover and leave to rest for a minimum of 30 minutes n Flatten the dough balls and stretch each one out into a circle as far as it will go n Fold the edges inward, continuing until you have a round shape of approximately 15 cm in diameter Press down lightly Fry the paratha in ghee until crisp on the outside but still very soft inside n To make the crab, heat the butter and oil in a pan Once hot, add the garlic paste and cook on a low heat without colouring for minutes Add the brown crab meat and cook for a further minute, followed by the white crab meat and black pepper Cook for a further minutes and then add the chives and remove from the heat Check the seasoning and add salt if needed as the brown crab meat acts as seasoning Serve sprinkled with some more chives and the warm paratha n PER SERVING (as a starter for 4) 700 kcals, protein 19.6g, carbs 63.4g, fat 42.6g, sat fat 22.8g, fibre 2.8g, salt 1.8g AUGUST 2012 Styling ARABELLA MCNIE Food styling SONJA EDRIDGE Recipe KARAM SETHI Photographs DAVID MUNNS masterclass chef skills Find the joint where the shell is attached to the body Use your fingers or a knife to push and crack the body away There is a natural joint that will give way under pressure and allow you to remove the body The feathery dead man’s fingers (gills) are attached to each side of the body Remove and discard them and any that are left in the shell Twist and pull the claws and legs away from the body Tease the white meat from the cavities in the body with a pick or skewer Keep in a separate bowl to the brown meat AUGUST 2012 Scoop the brown crab meat from the shell and keep in a bowl Use a small mallet or back of a heavy knife to crack the claws WorldMags.net Next, cut the body of the crab in half using a heavy knife Use a pick to pull all the meat from the claws Check through all the white meat for stray shell pieces before you use it BBC GoodFood 145 masterclass diy Homemade pickles Add a touch of spice to boring meals with these simple, homemade pickles Mango avakkai (hot Andhra-style mango pickle) Chhundo (sweet and spicy Gujarati grated mango pickle) Aromatic whole lime pickle (Punjabi kala nimbu pickle) Makes 1kg n 30 minutes + resting n EASY Makes 1kg n 30 minutes + resting n EASY Makes 1kg n 30 minutes + resting n EASY Dip 1kg unpeeled chunks of raw mango in 600ml raw sesame oil, squeezing out the excess oil Combine 150g chilli powder, 40g sun-dried and powdered mustard seeds, 20g roasted and powdered fenugreek seeds, 10g turmeric powder and 250g salt evenly to form a mixture Roll the mango pieces in the spice mixture and arrange in a jar Sprinkle over a little spice mixture and pour over a little oil Repeat this process until all the mango pieces are layered Cover and set aside for days On the fourth day, pour over the remaining oil to cover the mixture Stir well The pickle is ready to use after weeks It lasts for one year Mix 10g chilli powder, 10g turmeric powder and 10g powdered cumin seeds which are roasted in oil Combine 1kg shredded Rajapuri mango with 600g sugar, 25g salt and the spice blend, evenly Spread the mixture in a shallow, wide-mouthed jar and cover with a thin cloth Sun the mixture for days until the syrup attains a single-thread consistency, stirring times daily The pickle lasts for year Combine 1kg whole limes, cloves and 10g crushed carrom seeds (ajwain) with 225g salt and 10g black salt Pack in a jar and pour over 50ml lime juice Sun the pickle until the limes become brown and tender The pickle is ready for use It lasts for year Recipes courtesy USHA’S PICKLE DIGEST by Usha Prabhakaran Sour and spicy green chilli pickle Makes 1/2kg n 30 minutes + resting n EASY 146 BBC GoodFood Photograph DINODIA PHOTO Stir fry 500g slit green chillies in 50ml oil till tender Grind 15g sun-dried mustard seeds and 15g sun-dried peppercorns into a powder Roast 10g fenugreek seeds and 5g asafoetida in a little oil and grind into a powder Add the roasted spice powders and 125g salt to the chillies and mix thoroughly When the mixture has cooled, add in 125ml lime juice, 200ml oil (after heating) and stir well Cap tightly and set aside for weeks The pickle will then be ready for use It lasts for months WorldMags.net AUGUST 2012 S NE TO WI W D HO RE E OR ST New Indian Varietals nd ou ys ar lwa ing ed A ge t ov ght e a ou th ry t m nli no su es t d is ct rov sn’ e e le tt dir mp bo to is i ork th c ne d wi ose — he he xp ide t t e t ot e he s tha ur t s n re e s is on ak nd ing nsu M a e ot t ly d a l e i s an s or st oce pr 10-MINUTE WINE GUIDE Food writer Vikram Doctor spotlights six hot international wine varieties now being produced in India Vikram Doctor writes about a broad range of issues for the Economic Times He is also a well known food writer and blogger AUGUST 2012 W hen India’s winemakers first started planting near Nasik and Bangalore 15-20 years ago, they planted the workhorses of the wine world – varieties like Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc that can produce good wine under a fairly wide range of conditions They also planted trendy varieties like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay The results were fairly clear The workhorses did well and produced some really good wine The trendy varietals mostly did badly and thus, it was clear which varietals would work in India The growth of the global wine industry has spread the cultivation of some superstar varietals at the expense of many local ones, but these are still used to make wines at regional levels A few Indian winemakers have now started looking at these grapes, especially from places like Sicily and Spain, where the summers can approach an Indian intensity Andrea Valentinuzzi, who makes the wines at Reveilo, started with excellent Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, but also planted lesserknown varietals – Nero d’Avola and Sangiovese for red wine and Grillo for white wine Fratelli has also recently launched a Sangiovese Malbec from Argentina is another varietal that seems promising But the one attracting most interest is Tempranillo from Spain These wines should reach the market next year, but till then here are a few new or lesser-known varietals worth trying Reveilo Nero d’Avola (` 675, Godrej Nature’s Basket and leading wine stores, Mumbai) This red wine has dark berry flavours, but not the jammy excess of Shiraz It has some of the structure of Cabernet Sauvignon, but not its severity, and has a lively peppery aftertaste Such a powerful wine needs to be paired with an equally powerful dish; go for red meat such as raan or rogan josh Sula Dindori Viognier (` 740 in Mumbai at Godrej Nature’s Basket and leading wine stores, ` 640 in Delhi at Godrej Nature’s Basket) An Indian white that’s not sweet, although its fresh flowery aroma can trick you into thinking it is This lovely aroma helps conceal a steeliness that might be disconcerting for those used to softer, sweeter Indian whites The perfect partner? A pork vindaloo Reveilo Sangiovese (` 695, Godrej Nature’s Basket and leading wine stores, Mumbai) The key component of many famous Tuscan wines, this is fruity, smooth, slightly spicy and just a little sweet, and makes for wonderfully easy drinking This, Reveilo’s most versatile wine, goes well with a buttery masala gravy The tangy creaminess of the gravy will be counteracted perfectly by the acidity in the wine Sula Red Zinfandel (` 550 in Delhi, ` 549 in Mumbai, available at most wine stores) This has been around for a while, but tends to get overlooked in Sula’s large portfolio It’s nice as a change, a strong, smooth and only very slightly sweet red with a peppery, spicy finish This spiciness is what makes this one of the best wines to order along with Indian food Try it with a seekh kebab dressed with mint sauce Reveilo Grillo (` 605, Godrej Nature’s Basket and leading wine stores, Mumbai) This wine doesn’t have sugar, but has no mouth-puckering dry notes either Its main impression is of a wonderfully refreshing citrusiness, lots of dry lime and grapefruit flavours Serve with crispy tandoor-cooked vegetables Chateau d’Ori Cabernet-Merlot (` 660, Godrej Nature’s Basket and selected wine stores, Mumbai) Merlot is not a new varietal, but one of the stars of the wine world This is a wine with strong structure This dish merits a well done barrah kebab (lamb on the bone marinated with spices and grilled), a lamb gravy or a Madras beef curry Food and wine pairings ROHAN JELKIE, Tulleeho / Tulleeho Wine Academy WorldMags.net BBC GoodFood 147 WorldMags.net WorldMags.net Kumaoni Preserves & pickles Anita Paul, co-founder of the Pan Himalayan Grassroots Development Foundation, talks to Good Food about UMANG, the unique women-centric company she helped set up and its Kumaoni brand of pickles, preserves and natural foods As told to VIDYA BALACHANDER Photographs courtesy KALYAN AND ANITA PAUL basic issues like safe drinking water, sanitation, renewable energy and rainwater harvesting My husband Kalyan and I set up the Pan Himalayan Grassroots Development Foundation in 1992 after having worked in the development sector for over a decade Since its inception, Grassroots has focused on enabling mountain communities in Uttarakhand and Himachal Pradesh to plan, implement and share the costs of bringing forth change and development in various sectors that have a direct bearing on their quality of life We began by addressing After almost a decade of such work, the communities began to organise Self Help Groups i.e groups of about 10 to 15 neighbours and friends, coming together to help each other financially and personally Each producer-member of the group could participate in one or more business ventures to supplement the family income in a sustainable manner We encouraged some of our women team leaders to assist village women to establish businesses that support the poor Within a span of a few years, the Mahila Umang Producers Company was set up The businesses that fall under the UMANG umbrella include fruit preserves and pickles, natural seasonal honey and organic spice powders, among other things HOW ETHICAL IS UMANG? Organic: The Kumaoni range of products is not organically certified However, the company follows the Participatory Guarantee System (PGS), an organic certification system that enables producers and consumers to collectively define certification standards No artificial colours or flavours are added Fair trade: UMANG is founded upon the idea of sustainability and fair trade The organisation is governed by a board constituting of producer-members According to Kalyan Paul, the idea of UMANG is for consumers to “directly assist economically poor households through ‘trade and not aid’.” 150 BBC GoodFood The soft, temperate fruits of the hills such as apricots and plums are difficult to transport over long distances and therefore fetch low prices In order to add value to these fruits, we decided to set up a processing unit for making fruit preserves and pickles Over the years, the product range has increased to 15 items that are available through the year The fruit preserve range includes apple jelly, apricot jam, plum jam, WorldMags.net orange marmalade, strawberry jam, guava jelly and apple and pear jelly The small team of specially trained women also produces fruit chutneys such as mango, apricot and plum, pickles such as lime, green chilli and garlic, and natural honey in eucalyptus, lychee and wild flower flavours They are all completely natural and no artificial colours are added The product range also includes natural attas, spices and pulses All products are sold under the common brand names of Kumaoni and HimKhadya Our product range is not organically certified However, only fruits that are not sprayed with chemical pesticides are processed by UMANG We have also initiated the process of certification for staple foods such as millets and bean through a unique method called the Participatory Guarantee System (PGS) All items are branded as HimKhadya, which indicates safe food from the Himalaya region UMANG has its own flagship showroom in Naini village, located 10 km outside Ranikhet town at a height of 6,000 feet This showroom is very popular and our annual sale from the store is now ` 30 lakh per annum Besides this, there are 50 shops and hotels in the region that retail UMANG products In recent times, they have also reached metros like Delhi and Bangalore through a marketing initiative called Himjoli AUGUST 2012 top producers preserves and pickles ‘‘ The soft, temperate fruits of the hills such as apricots and plums are difficult to transport over long distances and therefore fetch low prices In order to add value to these fruits, we decided to set up a processing unit for making fruit preserves and pickles ‘‘ Anita Paul with the Kumaoni range of jams, jellies, pickles and honeys WorldMags.net Recipe index T VEGETARIAN T READY UNDER 30 MINUTES T LOW FAT T T T T 126 Kewpie’s tomato chutney STARTERS, SNACKS & SOUP T T T T 84 Chargrilled Kerala spiced prawns T T T T 88 Goan sausage-pav panzanella T T T T 90 Hariyali chicken salad with tomato kasundi dressing T T T T 24 Honeyed carrots T T T T 76 Kaddoo phool pakoda and aam ki chutney T T T T 52 Light carrot pachdi T T T T 90 Mushroom and aloo chaat salad T T T T 123 Salmon tikka T T T T 86 Seared salmon and mango chaat T T T T 46 Spicy potato cakes with chilli and coriander T T T T 52 Sprouted moong crunch T T T T 91 Watermelon, pineapple, beansprouts and feta crumble DESSERTS, BREAKFASTS & BAKING T T T T 103 Carrot kheer T T T T 24 Homemade granola T T T T 24 Honey friands T T T T 105 Musk melon rasayana T T T T 80 Parwal ki mithai T T T T 130 Rasagullas T T T T 103 Vermicelli with orange cream T T T T 104 Sweet saffron yoghurt T T T T 40 The Savoy Chill T T T T 106 Velvety mango mousse MAINS Meat T T T T 95 Dhabe ka gosht T 98 Safed maas T T T T 54 Singapore noodles Poultry T T T T 24 Chicken and veggie stir fry T T T T 50 Coronation chicken T T T T 46 Chicken pasanda T T T T 94 Chicken narangi pyaaza Fish and seafood T T T T 44 Bengali fish parcels T T T T 58 Crab and pea risotto with basil T T T T 145 Garlic, black pepper and butter crab with paratha T T T T 96 Prawn caldeen T T T T 44 Smoked salmon kedgeree T T T T 128 Tatul ilish bhaja T T T T 56 Tikka-style fish 152 BBC GoodFood Vegetarian T T T T 100 Aloo paneer nazakat korma T T T T 128 Alur dom T T T T 41 Baked aubergines with tomatoes, basil and pine nuts T T T T 128 Bati chorchori T T T T 60 Bean enchiladas T T T T 58 Cauliflower, broccoli and mature cheddar gratin T T T T 52 Cauliflower parathas T T T T 60 Fusilli with glorious green spinach sauce T T T T 74 Ghugni kachori T T T T 48 Italian baked aubergines T T T T 76 Litti chokha with tamatar khajur chutney T T T T 99 Kaikiri stew T T T T 78 Khatta meetha badam sitaphal T T T T 54 Marinated tofu with ginger broth T T T T71 Pineapple rasam T T T T 78 Sarson wale aloo T T T T 97 Shahi mirch bhari paneer T T T T 22 Thalipeeth T T T T 56 Turmeric pulao T T T T 52 Veggie khichdi T T T T 101 Watermelon curry T T T T 48 Zucchini risotto with crisp capers and sage SIDES & SAUCES T T T T 146 Aromatic whole lime pickle T T T T 24 Honey and mustard marinade WorldMags.net Bicerin Bombay Pimms Coffee hazelnut Coffee martini Spanish coffee VKBC2 JAIN T T T T 146 Chhundo (Sweet and spicy Gujarati grated mango pickle) T T T T 52 Corn bhel T T T T 11 Go green cucumber surprise T T T T 66 Goddu (no-dal) rasam T T T T 80 Lai ka ladoo T T T T 146 Mango avakkai (Hot Andhra-style mango pickle) T T T T 71 Mango rasam T T T T 68 Milagu (pepper) rasam T T T T 84 Rajma, kabuli chana, green beans and papdi with tamarind-jaggery vinaigrette T T T T 146 Sour and spicy green chilli pickle T T T T 88 Surti fafdaa with broccoli dip T T T T 68 Thengai paal (coconut milk) rasam T T T T 66 Tomato rasam AUGUST 2012 Photograph PRATEEKSH MEHRA DRINKS T T T T 38 T T T T 26 T T T T 38 T T T T 38 T T T T 38 T T T T 38 Shop talk AHMEDABAD Organic Haus Oriental House, S V Kinariwala Road, Law Garden Tel: +91 79 26445593 BENGALURU Foodworld Gourmet 301, Gottigere village, Uttarahalli village, Bannerghatta Main Road Tel: +91 80 32466586 Gourmet – Food World No 88, Shariff Bhatia Towers, MG Road Tel: +91 80 41474789 Where to find everything from prawns to paprika Market, Lodhi Road Tel: +91 11 24642509 Near Deer Park Tel: +91 11 41650164 Ashok General Store 113, Main Market, Opposite Dilli Haat, INA Market Tel: +91 11 24617561 Dubden Green 4-A, Near Electric Sub Station, Shahpur Jat Tel: +91 11 32905310, +91 9810131343 Flanders Dairy – The Cheese Ball 31 Mehr Chand Market, Lodhi Road Tel: +91 11 24653789 Nature’s Basket #755, 80 Feet Road, 4th Block, Next to Costa Coffee, Koramangala Tel: +91 80 41317401 Fortune Gourmet 144/9, Ground Floor, Kishangarh, Vasant Kunj Tel: +91 11 65642270/ 9868899956 Sorbet – The gourmet food store Address: No 287, Varthur Road, Siddapura, Whitefield Tel: +91 80 28543245 Gogia’s 280, Main road, INA Market Tel: +91 11 24624809/ 24644618 CHENNAI Amma Nana Chamiers Road, opp Park Sheraton Hotel, Nandanam Tel: +91 44 24350596 INA Market Aurobindo Marg, INA Colony, Opposite Dilli Haat Le Marche  58, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar, Near Priya Cinema Tel: +91 11 43232100/41669111 Mercado No 64, Rukmani Road, Kalakshetra Colony, Besant Nagar Tel: +91 44 28173965 Master’s Bakers G-33, Usha Chambers, Community Centre, Ashok Vihar Tel: +91 11 27419061/ 27430734 Nuts ‘n’ Spices New no 75, Mahatma Gandhi Road, Nungambakkam Tel: +91 44 28268180, 42039351 Modern Bazaar 18-B, Community Centre, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar Tel: +91 11 41669777 HYDERABAD Nature’s Basket Urmila Towers, Road No 10, Opp Rainbow Hospital, Banjara Hills Tel: +91 40 23355399 NEW DELHI A- Mart A-1, Mahipalpur Extension, NH-8 Tel: +91 11 26789999 Ahuja Vegetable Store Shop No- 37, INA Market Tel: +91 11 24644116 Photograph DAVID MUNNS Allied Fruits and Florists 58-B, Khan Nature’s Basket Ground floor, D /15, Between BP Petrol Pump and Def Col Flyover Tel: +91 11 46698777 46, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar, Ground floor & basement Tel: +91 11 40571919 • Palkit Impex C-82, Basement, Shivalik, Malviya Nagar Tel: +91 11 26673437 Passion Cheese Select Citywalk Mall, District Centre, Saket Tel: +91 11 40599916 Nature’s Basket S-201, 2nd Floor, Ambience Mall, Ambience Island, NH-8 Tel: +91 124 4665753 KOLKATA Afraa Deli City Centre, Salt Lake Tel: +91 33 23581111 Gourmet Gallery 27/9C, Chandi Ghosh Road, Regent Park Tel: +91 33 23818510 MUMBAI Country of Origin Maneesha Building, 69/A, Napean Sea Road, Malabar Hill Tel: +91 22 23642221 Dolce Vita Ground Floor, Grand Galleria, High Street Phoenix, Phoenix Mills, Lower Parel Tel: +91 22 24964307 Food Bazaar Infinity Mall, Raheja Classic, New Link Road, Andheri (W) Tel: +91 22 67583090 Foodhall Palladium, High Street Phoenix, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel Tel: +91 22 30264581 Gourmet West Westside, Army and Navy Building, 148 M.G Road, Kala Ghoda Tel: +91 22 66360499 Hypercity Ground Floor, Malad (W) Tel: +91 22 40501300 Lallu & brothers Shop no 1&2, Pali Market, Pali Hill Road, Pali Hill, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 26409295 Nature’s Basket Pigpo Jor Bagh Market Tel: +91 11 24611723/ 24626930 227, Samarth Vaibhav Building, •Opposite Tarapur Towers, Adarsh Pindi Fruit Mart Defence Colony Market Tel: +91 11 41552530/ 24333593 • Steak House 13/8 Jor Bagh Market Tel: +91 11 24611008/ 24611129 • The French Farmer Tel: Call Roger Langbur +91 9810166196, +91 11 26359701 • • Yamato Ya –The Japanese Store B-6/9, Safdarjung Enclave, AUGUST 2012 GURGAON Kim’s Mart DT Mega Mall, LG 36, Gurgaon Tel: +91 124 2562189 Nagar, Lokhandwala, Andheri (W) Tel: +91 22 26300766 Shop No 4, BG-India , Hiranandani Gardens, Powai Tel: +91 22 25707706 2-5 Parul Apartment, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu Tel: +91 22 26117893 133, Hill Road, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 26425050 Opp Mahalaxmi Temple , Warden Road, Mahalaxmi, Tel: +91 22 23526775 WorldMags.net Patel stores Near Mehboob Studio, Krishnachandra Marg, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 26558909 Ratna stores Haware Parekh, Sion-Trombay Road, Opposite Union Park, Chembur Tel: +91 22 25203389 Reliance Fresh Crystal Paradise Mall, DuttaJi Salavi Road, Off Veera Desai Road, Opposite Janaki Centre, Link Road, Andheri (W) Tel: +91 22 26743750 Framroze Court, Phalke Road, Dadar (E) Tel: +91 22 24155017 • • Santé Shop Number 1, Sahina Apartments, Pali Market, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 40060020 Spencer’s Hyper Market 1406A/28A, Malad (W) Tel: +91 22 42686130 Tutto Bene Delicatessen Spencer’s Hyper Market, Ground Floor, Located in Inorbit Mall, Malad (W) Tel: +91 9823485988 PUNE Dorabjee & Co Pvt Ltd B-1, Moledina Road, Camp Cantonment Tel: +91 20 26052883 Nature’s Basket Mansur Ali Tower, 3, •Galaxy Society, Max Mueller Lane, Near AXIS Bank, Dhole Patil Road Tel: +91 20 26160540 Shop No 155/1A, Kumar Crystal Aundh Tel: +91 20 25889530 • Providore GF 104, Anand Park, Baner Road, Aundh Tel: +91 20 65601551 Tutto Bene Delicatessen Shop No 1, Princeton Flair, Lane No 8, Koregaon Park Tel: +91 20 66077193 Tutto Bene Delicatessen G 14 Sacred World Mall, Wanowrie Tel: +91 20 26806933 Gourmet Websites Gourmet Company www.gourmetco.in Olive Tree Trading olivetreetrading.com Foodzig www.foodzig.com Delicious Now www.deliciousnow.com BBC GoodFood 153 spotlight shazahn padamsee My life on a plate Source The Times of India Group, Copyright © (2012), Bennett, Coleman & Co Ltd, All rights reserved Shazahn Padamsee The bubbly Shazahn Padamsee made her debut with the movie Rocket Singh and acted in several South Indian films before featuring in Madhur Bhandarkar’s Dil Toh Baccha Hai Ji Her most recent movie was the Akshay Kumar starrer Housefull Here the pretty woman  talks about her obsession with crispy bombil, Ryan Gosling and Jamie Oliver, though not in that order As told to PARAG MANIAR How often you cook? Not too often because I have a great cook at home But I have made quite a good breakfast on some days — scrambled eggs and chai Most prized kitchen tool you own? My gas lighter It’s a very fancy one, funky and super long I am petrified of fire and scared of getting my hands burnt, which is why my mother has kept it What’s your cooking style – relaxed and easy or kitchen Nazi? Kitchen Nazi! I get terribly hyperactive while cooking Even in a restaurant I get stressed because I am very indecisive and not know what to order What’s the one dish you’ll never touch? Karela (bitter gourd) for sure Your dream party guest list includes… Ryan Gosling! If I had a party, I would invite only him and then claim that my other friends didn’t turn up so I could be alone with him If you had to cook a romantic meal, what would be on the menu? Homemade pasta would be both healthy and delicious 154 BBC GoodFood Your most loved restaurant in the world? Gajalee, the seafood restaurant in Mumbai I visit it chiefly for the Bombay duck (bombil) but I also love the other seafood there If you had to spend a day with any one chef, who would it be? Jamie Oliver Besides being a good cook, he is hot, too! If you had to open a restaurant, what kind of place would it be? I would open a restaurant serving several different cuisines and include all the things we make at home, which is yummy food that is healthy at the same time Pet peeve in a restaurant? When the waiters have no knowledge about the food being served in their own restaurant They work there and it’s their job to know all about the food in the restaurant! A sudden surge of unexpected guests turn up at your house What you do? I would quickly turn out a grilled fish and stuffed mushrooms Your guilty food pleasure? Fried fish I can live solely on it The dishes you love the most? Fried Bombay duck (bombil) and pepperoni pizza Padamsee’s idea of a romantic meal — a light, healthy pasta If I had a party, I would invite only Ryan Gosling, then claim my other friends didn’t turn up so I could be alone with him! WorldMags.net What is your signature dish? Bombay duck, of course! Your favourite food moment from a movie or book? From Salaam Namaste where a pregnant Preity Zinta has the sudden urge to have a Ben & Jerry’s ice cream and walks down to the store in the middle of the night Ben & Jerry’s has the best ice cream, hands down! AUGUST 2012 Photograph WILL HEAP What is your earliest food memory? Cerelac! I still have it sometimes especially before going to the gym A venture of Lite Bite Foods (P) Ltd “ Wade through the gastronomic diversity of the Southern Coast experiencing our fresh home-style cuisine recreating centuries old culinary traditions” DELHI | GURGAON | PUNE WorldMags.net/zambar.india /zambar1 331795D8 WorldMags.net ... the food she loves THE BBC GOODFOOD LEGACY T BBC GoodFood is the UK’s largest selling food magazine with a readership of over 1.1 million T bbcgoodfood.com is the UK’s most popular recipe site... mags.timesgroup.com /good- food. html 18 BBC GoodFood WorldMags.net AUGUST 2012 need to know live masterclass Habanero Tequila Fired Cottage Cheese Maximum Mexican BBC Good Food India together with Chef Vikas... say, why choose at all? Bon appetit! All about BBC Good Food India s Privilege Programme At BBC Good Food India, we believe no reader of ours should ever have to sit down to anything less than a