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direct Europe FOR DUMmIES ‰ 3RD EDITION by Reid Bramblett Europe For Dummies,® 3rd Edition Published by Wiley Publishing, Inc 111 River St Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 www.wiley.com Copyright © 2005 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana Published simultaneously in Canada No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400, fax 978-646-8600 Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317-572-3447, fax 317-572-4355, e-mail: brandreview@wiley.com Trademarks: Wiley, the Wiley Publishing logo, For Dummies, the Dummies Man logo, A Reference for the Rest of Us!, The Dummies Way, Dummies Daily, The Fun and Easy Way, Dummies.com and related trade dress are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc., and/or its affiliates in the United States and other countries, and may not be used without written permission Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer Used under license All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners Wiley Publishing, Inc., is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book LIMIT OF LIABILITY/DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTY: PLEASE BE ADVISED THAT TRAVEL INFORMATION IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE AT ANY TIME — AND THIS IS ESPECIALLY TRUE OF PRICES WE THEREFORE SUGGEST THAT YOU WRITE OR CALL AHEAD FOR CONFIRMATION WHEN MAKING YOUR TRAVEL PLANS THE AUTHORS, EDITORS, AND PUBLISHER CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THE EXPERIENCES OF READERS WHILE TRAVELING YOUR SAFETY IS IMPORTANT TO US, HOWEVER, SO WE ENCOURAGE YOU TO STAY ALERT AND BE AWARE OF YOUR SURROUNDINGS KEEP A CLOSE EYE ON CAMERAS, PURSES, AND WALLETS, ALL FAVORITE TARGETS OF THIEVES AND PICKPOCKETS For general information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S at 800-762-2974, outside the U.S at 317-572-3993, or fax 317-572-4002 Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books Library of Congress Control Number: 2004117339 ISBN: 0-7645-7529-5 Manufactured in the United States of America 10 3B/QV/QR/QV/IN About the Author Reid Bramblett has lived in Europe on and off since the age of 11, and is the author of ten travel guides, including Frommer’s Tuscany & Umbria and Frommer’s Northern Italy He is Associate Editor of Budget Travel magazine, the creator of the awardwinning TravelTools.net, and a contributor of travel articles to such publications as Newsweek, The Miami Herald, and the Dallas Morning News When not on the road, he splits his time between New York and his native Philadelphia Dedication This book is dedicated to Frances C Sayers, who is largely responsible for it being (a) finished, and (b) accurate Author’s Acknowledgments My editor, Christine Ryan, did an excellent job of pointing out all the many, many places where what I originally wrote was confusing, out of place, or simply defied all laws of physics Readers have her to thank for any coherence they might find within these pages My parents first brought me to Europe (kicking and screaming) at the age of 11 to live in Rome, and proceeded to teach me all about vagabonding around the Continent over the next two years These pages are, in large part, just me cribbing from those two masters at the art of travel James Sayers and Matt Finley have both contributed greatly to this book over its various editions — I made them all the difficult bits — and are both living proof that no one really lasts more than one season as a travel writer’s assistant And finally, my gratitude to Boy Scout Troop 116, which — over the course of three weeks in the summer of 2000 — reminded me (a) of all those minor aspects of life on the road we travel writers take for granted yet would save first-timers hours of agony and confusion if only someone would have warned them first, and (b) that the promise to lead a group of teenage boys across Europe is a serious thing and should probably never be agreed upon after one’s sixth pint of Guinness Publisher’s Acknowledgments We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our Dummies online registration form located at www.dummies.com/register/ Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following: Editorial Editors: Elizabeth Kuball and Christine Ryan Copy Editor: Elizabeth Kuball Cartographer: Elizabeth Puhl Editorial Manager: Carmen Krikorian Editorial Assistant: Nadine Bell Senior Photo Editor: Richard Fox Cover Photos: Front, Bob Krist/ eStock Photo; back, Larry Fisher/ Masterfile Cartoons: Rich Tennant, Composition Project Coordinator: Kristie Rees Layout and Graphics: Lauren Goddard, Joyce Haughey, Shelley Norris, Barry Offringa, Lynsey Osborn, Heather Ryan, Julie Trippetti Proofreaders: David Faust, Leeann Harney, Jessica Kramer, Carl William Pierce, TECHBOOKS Production Services, Inc Indexer: TECHBOOKS Production Services, Inc www.the5thwave.com Publishing and Editorial for Consumer Dummies Diane Graves Steele, Vice President and Publisher, Consumer Dummies Joyce Pepple, Acquisitions Director, Consumer Dummies Kristin A Cocks, Product Development Director, Consumer Dummies Michael Spring, Vice President and Publisher, Travel Brice Gosnell, Associate Publisher, Travel Kelly Regan, Editorial Director, Travel Publishing for Technology Dummies Andy Cummings, Vice President and Publisher, Dummies Technology/General User Composition Services Gerry Fahey, Vice President of Production Services Debbie Stailey, Director of Composition Services ... For Dummies RV Vacations For Dummies Walt Disney World & Orlando For Dummies EUROPE Also available: England For Dummies Europe For Dummies Germany For Dummies Ireland For Dummies London For Dummies. .. Alaska For Dummies Arizona For Dummies Boston For Dummies California For Dummies Chicago For Dummies Colorado & the Rockies For Dummies Florida For Dummies Los Angeles & Disneyland For Dummies. .. Paris For Dummies Scotland For Dummies Spain For Dummies OTHER DESTINATIONS Also available: Bahamas For Dummies Cancun & the Yucatan For Dummies Costa Rica For Dummies Mexico’s Beach Resorts For Dummies