Wine Tasting: A Professional Handbook Second Edition Food Science and Technology International Series Series Editor Steve L Taylor University of Nebraska – Lincoln, USA Advisory Board Ken Buckle The University of New South Wales, Australia Mary Ellen Camire University of Maine, USA Roger Clemens University of Southern California, USA Hildegarde Heymann University of California – Davis, USA Robert Hutkins University of Nebraska – Lincoln, USA Ron S Jackson Quebec, Canada Huub Lelieveld Bilthoven, The Netherlands Daryl B Lund University of Wisconsin, USA Connie Weaver Purdue University, USA Ron Wrolstad Oregon State University, USA A complete list of books in this series appears at the end of this volume Wine Tasting: A Professional Handbook Second Edition Ronald S Jackson Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute, Brock University, St Catharines, Ontario, Canada Academic Press is an imprint of Elsevier 30 Corporate Drive, Suite 400, Burlington, MA 01803, USA 525 B Street, Suite 1900, San Diego, California 92101-4495, USA 84 Theobald’s Road, London WC1X 8RR, UK Copyright # 2009, Elsevier Inc All rights reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher Permissions may be sought directly from Elsevier’s Science & Technology Rights Department in Oxford, UK: phone: (þ44) 1865 843830, fax: (þ44) 1865 853333, E-mail: permissions@elsevier.com You may also complete your request online via the Elsevier homepage (http://elsevier.com), by selecting “Support & Contact” then “Copyright and Permission” and then “Obtaining Permissions.” Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data APPLICATION SUBMITTED British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN: 978-0-12-374181-3 For information on all Academic Press publications visit our Web site at www.elsevierdirect.com Printed in the United States of America 09 10 Dedication To my wife, Suzanne Ouellet v This page intentionally left blank Table of Contents PREFACE .xv ACKNOWLEDGMENTS xix ABOUT THE AUTHOR xxi CHAPTER Introduction Tasting Process Appearance Clarity .4 Color Viscosity Spritz Tears .6 Odor Orthonasal (in-glass) Odor In-mouth Sensations .14 Taste and Mouth-feel 14 Odor—Retronasal .16 Finish 18 Overall Quality 19 Postscript 21 References .22 CHAPTER Visual Perceptions 27 Color 27 Color Perception and Measurement 27 Significance in Tasting 32 Origin and Characteristics 34 Red Wines .34 Rose´ Wines 40 White wines .40 Clarity 41 Crystals 41 Sediment 42 vii viii Table of Contents Proteinaceous Haze 43 Phenolic Haze 43 Casse 43 Deposits on Bottle Surfaces 44 Microbial Spoilage 44 Viscosity 45 Spritz .46 Tears 48 Suggested Readings 49 References .49 CHAPTER Olfactory Sensations 55 Olfactory System .56 Nasal Passages 56 Olfactory Epithelium, Receptor Neurons, and Cerebral Connections .58 Odorants and Olfactory Stimulation 65 Chemical Compounds Involved 68 Acids 69 Alcohols 69 Aldehydes and Ketones 69 Acetals 70 Esters 70 Hydrogen Sulfide and Organosulfur Compounds 71 Hydrocarbon Derivatives 72 Lactones and Other Oxygen Heterocycles 73 Terpenes and Oxygenated Derivatives .73 Phenolics 74 Pyrazines and Other Nitrogen Heterocyclics 75 Sensations from Trigeminal Nerve 75 Vomeronasal Organ 76 Odor Perception 77 Sources of Variation in Olfactory Perception 87 Odor Assessment in Wine Tasting .97 Off-Odors 98 Acetic Acid (Volatile Acidity) 99 Baked 99 Buttery 99 Corky/Moldy 99 Ethyl Acetate 100 Ethyl Phenols 100 Table of Contents Fusel 101 Geranium-like 101 Light Struck 101 Mousy 101 Oxidation 102 Reduced-Sulfur Odors 103 Sulfur Odor 104 Untypical Aging Flavor (untypischen Alterungsnote, UTA) 104 Vegetative Odors 104 Other Off-Odors 105 Chemical Nature of Varietal Aromas 105 Suggested Readings 111 References 112 CHAPTER Taste and Mouth-Feel Sensations 129 Taste 130 Sweet, Umami, and Bitter Tastes 135 Sour and Salty Tastes (ASIC and ENaC Channels) 138 Factors Influencing Taste Perception 140 Physicochemical 140 Chemical 141 Biologic 143 Psychologic 145 Mouth-Feel 146 Astringency 147 Burning 151 Temperature .151 Prickling 152 Body (Weight) 153 Metallic .154 Chemical Compounds Involved 154 Sugars .154 Alcohols 155 Acids 156 Phenolics 157 Polysaccharides 162 Nucleic Acids 162 Taste and Mouth-Feel Sensations in Wine Tasting 163 Appendix 4.1: Measuring Taste Bud Density 164 Suggested Readings 165 References 166 ix 482 Index Taste perception (Continued) psychological factors, 145–146 food chemistry, 430 neurocircuitry, 132–133 papillae, 130–132, 134–135 salty, 138–140 sour, 138–140 sweet, 135–138 taste buds counting, 164–165 overview, 130–131 supporting cells, 130–131 taste genes, 134, 136–137 taste-odor combination detection, 445 thresholds and testing, 193–194 umami, 135–138 Tasters accuracy, 180 number for tasting, 220–221 occupational hazards, see Occupational hazards, wine tasting preferences in wine, 280 selection basic requirements, 182–186 panelist identification, 186–187 tests sample organization, 190 sweetness, 192–193 taste acuity, 190–192 taste recognition, 190 threshold assessment, 193–194 types of expertise, 231 tasting, see Pre-tasting organization; Tasting design training and testing analysis of variance, 204–207 consistency in testing, 203 discrimination tests short-term wine memory, 201–202 varietal differentiation, 199–201, 286 varietal dilution, 197–199, 286 experience importance, 208 feedback, 189 impact on performance, 187 odor recognition tests fragrance, 195 off-odors tests, 195–197, 284–285 success rate, 196 odor samples aroma and bouquets, 281–282 off-odors, 283 preparation, 189 olfactory memory improvement, 188 score variability, 205–207 taste/mouth-feel response sheet, 284 wine acceptability versus general public, 184 Tasting design information provided, 221–222, 305 perceptive error sources, 222–225 sample preparation, 222 timing, 225 Tasting process appearance clarity, color, spritz, tears, viscosity, finish, 18 holistic sampling, 21–22 in-mouth sensations mouth-feel, 14–16, 163–164 taste, 14–16, 163–164 odor orthonasal odor, 6–9, 11–13 retronasal odor, 16–18 sniffing, 7–8 terminology, 9–11 overview of sequence, 2–3 quality, 19–21 recording, 11–13 Tasting room booths, 210–211 climate control, 210 cuspidors, 211 data collection, 211–212 lighting, 208–209 palate cleansers, 211 qualitative wine assessment, 303 Tasting sheets, see Score sheets Tasting situations consumer preference tastings, 324–326 home tastings, 336 in-store tastings, 328–329 trade tastings, 327–328 wine appreciation courses, 329–333 wine competitions, 322–324 wine tasting societies, 333–336 TCA, see Trichloroanisole TDN, see 1, 1, 6-Trimethyl–1, 2-dihydronaphthalene Tears definition, 468 formation, 48 tasting process, Teeth, erosion, 280 Temperature aging, 417 carbonation perception effects, 151–152 fermentation, 360–361 mouth-feel, 151–152 olfaction effects, 153 qualitative wine assessment, 308–309 quantitative wine assessment, 213–215 taste effects, 308 taste perception effects, 140–141, 153 wine presentation, 454 Tempranillo, 355–356, 443 Terminology aroma descriptors overview, 227, 232–233 red wine, 371 white wine, 366 color descriptors, 5, 228 communication, 229–230, 313–317 descriptor validity, 226 flavor descriptors, 227–228 food and wine pairing, 430 generation by tasters versus supplied, 233 Index odorants, 73–74 odor detection thresholds, 79 odors, 9–11, 86–87, 91 qualitative wine assessment, 313–317 ranking wines, 228 training importance, 230–231 verbalization of sensory perception, 228–229 wine varieties, 350 Terpenes, 73–74 Terroir, 392, 468 Testing, see Tasters Threshold assessment, 193–194 detection, 77–84, 144 differentiation, 84–86 recognition, 84–85 TI analysis., see Time-intensity analysis Time-intensity (TI) analysis, 268–271 Trade tastings, 327–328 Training shoots, 400–401 tasters, see Sensory training; Tasters Training-based expertise, 231 Treacle, 379 Trebbiano, flavor intensity, 443 Triangle test, 253, 286 Trichloroanisole (TCA) detection threshold, 77 electronic nose detection, 276–277 off-odor, 99–100, 414 Trigeminal nerve, 75–76 1, 1, 6-Trimethyl–1, 2-dihydronaphthalene (TDN) odor, 72, 104 Rieslings, 416 Tristimulus colorimetry, 31 Turbinates, 57 Tyrosol flavor, 162 structure, 158 U UDP glucuronosyl transferase, olfaction role, 58 Umami, perception, 135–138 Untypical aging flavor, off-odor, 104 Untypischen alterunsnote, see Untypical aging flavor Urea, taste thresholds, 132 V Vanillin, odor, 75 Vanilloid receptors, 151, 439 Varietal differentiation test, 197–199, 286 Varietal dilution test, 199–201, 286 Vegetative odors, off-odors, 104–105 Vermouth, 384 Vineyard disease, 402 macroclimate, 392 maturity of fruit, 402–403 microclimate, 392–395 nutrition and irrigation, 401–402 rootstock, 396–398 species, variety, and clone, 395–396 training of shoots, 400–401 yield, 398–400 Vinho verde, 376 Vino santo, 365 Vintage Port, 382 Vinyl phenols, 74, 79 Viognier, 354, 420 Viscosity definition, 468 determinants, 45 tasting process, Visual characteristics, see Appearance Visual perception, 27–48 Vitaspirane, odor, 73–74 Viura, 354, 443 Volatile, 68, 468 Volatile acids, 468 Volatility, 68, 306–307 Volume, tasting samples, 216, 311 Vomeronasal organ, 76 Von Ebner’s gland, 134 W Wine appreciation course score sheet, 318 tastings, 329–333 Wine competitions, tastings, 322–324 Wine ‘diamonds,’ 42 Wine identification, 331–333 Winemaker, quality influences, 403–404 Wine presentation breathing, 306–307, 454 cellaring, 452–453 glasses, 453–454 label removal, 457–458 preservation after opening, 454–457 sequence, 450–451 temperature, 454 Winery, quality influences adjustments, 410 aging, 414–419 aging potential, 418, 420 blending, 410–411 bottle closure, 413–414 fermentation fermentor, 406–407 lactic acid bacteria, 407, 409–410 yeasts, 407 oak cooperage, 411–413 prefermentation processes, 404–406 processing, 411 winemaker, 403–404 Wine questionnaire, 327 Wine spirit, 468 Wine tasting societies, tastings, 333–336 Y Yeasts, quality influence, 407 Yield, quality influences, 398–400 Z Zinfandel color, 41 flavor intensity, 443 overview of features, 356 zNose, 275–276 Zygosaccharomyces bailii, spoilage, 44 483 This page intentionally left blank Food Science and Technology International Series Maynard A Amerine, Rose Marie Pangborn, and Edward B Roessler, Principles of Sensory Evaluation of Food 1965 Martin Glicksman, Gum Technology in the Food Industry 1970 Maynard A Joslyn, Methods in Food Analysis, second edition 1970 C R Stumbo, Thermobacteriology in Food Processing, second edition 1973 Aaron M Altschul (ed.), New Protein Foods: Volume 1, Technology, Part A—1974 Volume 2, Technology, Part B—1976 Volume 3, Animal Protein Supplies, Part A—1978 Volume 4, Animal Protein Supplies, Part B—1981 Volume 5, Seed Storage Proteins—1985 S A Goldblith, L Rey, and W W Rothmayr, Freeze Drying and Advanced Food Technology 1975 R B Duckworth (ed.), Water Relations of Food 1975 John A Troller and J H B Christian, Water Activity and Food 1978 A E Bender, Food Processing and Nutrition 1978 D R Osborne and P Voogt, The Analysis of Nutrients in Foods 1978 Marcel Loncin and R L Merson, Food Engineering: Principles and Selected Applications 1979 J G Vaughan (ed.), Food Microscopy 1979 J R A Pollock (ed.), Brewing Science, Volume 1—1979 Volume 2—1980 Volume 3—1987 J Christopher Bauernfeind (ed.), Carotenoids as Colorants and Vitamin A Precursors: Technological and Nutritional Applications 1981 Pericles Markakis (ed.), Anthocyanins as Food Colors 1982 George F Stewart and Maynard A Amerine (eds), Introduction to Food Science and Technology, second edition 1982 Hector A Iglesias and Jorge Chirife, Handbook of Food Isotherms: Water Sorption Parameters for Food and Food Components 1982 Colin Dennis (ed.), Post-Harvest Pathology of Fruits and Vegetables 1983 P J Barnes (ed.), Lipids in Cereal Technology 1983 David Pimentel and Carl W Hall (eds), Food and Energy Resources 1984 Joe M Regenstein and Carrie E Regenstein, Food Protein Chemistry: An Introduction for Food Scientists 1984 Maximo C Gacula, Jr and Jagbir Singh, Statistical Methods in Food and Consumer Research 1984 485 486 Food Science and Technology: International Series Fergus M Clydesdale and Kathryn L Wiemer (eds), Iron Fortification of Foods 1985 Robert V Decareau, Microwaves in the Food Processing Industry 1985 S M Herschdoerfer (ed.), Quality Control in the Food Industry, second edition Volume 1—1985 Volume 2—1985 Volume 3—1986 Volume 4—1987 F E Cunningham and N A Cox (eds), Microbiology of Poultry Meat Products 1987 Walter M Urbain, Food Irradiation 1986 Peter J Bechtel, Muscle as Food 1986 H W.-S Chan, Autoxidation of Unsaturated Lipids 1986 Chester O McCorkle, Jr., Economics of Food Processing in the United States 1987 Jethro Japtiani, Harvey T Chan, Jr., and William S Sakai, Tropical Fruit Processing 1987 J Solms, D A Booth, R M Dangborn, and O Raunhardt, Food Acceptance and Nutrition 1987 R Macrae, HPLC in Food Analysis, second edition 1988 A M Pearson and R B Young, Muscle and Meat Biochemistry 1989 Marjorie P Penfield and Ada Marie Campbell, Experimental Food Science, third edition 1990 Leroy C Blankenship, Colonization Control of Human Bacterial Enteropathogens in Poultry 1991 Yeshajahu Pomeranz, Functional Properties of Food Components, second edition 1991 Reginald H Walter, The Chemistry and Technology of Pectin 1991 Herbert Stone and Joel L Sidel, Sensory Evaluation Practices, second edition 1993 Robert L Shewfelt and Stanley E Prussia, Postharvest Handling: A Systems Approach 1993 Tilak Nagodawithana and Gerald Reed, Enzymes in Food Processing, third edition 1993 Dallas G Hoover and Larry R Steenson, Bacteriocins 1993 Takayaki Shibamoto and Leonard Bjeldanes, Introduction to Food Toxicology 1993 John A Troller, Sanitation in Food Processing, second edition 1993 Harold D Hafs and Robert G Zimbelman, Low-fat Meats 1994 Lance G Phillips, Dana M Whitehead, and John Kinsella, StructureFunction Properties of Food Proteins 1994 Robert G Jensen, Handbook of Milk Composition 1995 ¨ H Roos, Phase Transitions in Foods 1995 Yrjo Reginald H Walter, Polysaccharide Dispersions 1997 Food Science and Technology: International Series ´ngora-Nieto, Usha R Gustavo V Barbosa-Ca´novas, M Marcela Go Pothakamury, and Barry G Swanson, Preservation of Foods with Pulsed Electric Fields 1999 Ronald S Jackson, Wine Tasting: A Professional Handbook 2002 Malcolm C Bourne, Food Texture and Viscosity: Concept and Measurement, second edition 2002 Benjamin Caballero and Barry M Popkin (eds), The Nutrition Transition: Diet and Disease in the Developing World 2002 Dean O Cliver and Hans P Riemann (eds), Foodborne Diseases, second edition 2002 Martin Martin Kohlmeier, Nutrient Metabolism, 2003 Herbert Stone and Joel L Sidel, Sensory Evaluation Practices, third edition 2004 Jung H Han, Innovations in Food Packaging 2005 Da-Wen Sun, Emerging Technologies for Food Processing 2005 Hans Riemann and Dean Cliver (eds) Foodborne Infections and Intoxications, third edition 2006 Ioannis S Arvanitoyannis, Waste Management for the Food Industries 2008 Ronald S Jackson, Wine Science: Principles and Applications, third edition 2008 Da-Wen Sun, Computer Vision Technology for Food Quality Evaluation 2008 Kenneth David and Paul Thompson, What Can Nanotechnology Learn From Biotechnology? 2008 Elke K Arendt and Fabio Dal Bello, Gluten-Free Cereal Products and Beverages 2008 Debasis Bagchi, Nutraceutical and Functional Food Regulations in the United States and Around the World, 2008 R Paul Singh and Dennis R Heldman, Introduction to Food Engineering, fourth edition 2008 Zeki Berk, Food Process Engineering and Technology 2009 Abby Thompson, Mike Boland and Harjinder Singh, Milk Proteins: From Expression to Food 2009 Wojciech J Florkowski, Stanley E Prussia, Robert L Shewfelt and Bernhard Brueckner (eds) Postharvest Handling, second edition 2009 487 This page intentionally left blank PLATE 5.1 Sensory cubicle showing monitor with tasting form on which responses can be entered; note lids on wine glasses and slot for passing samples (Photo courtesy of Dr Gary Pickering, CCOVI, Brock University, St Catharines, Ontario.) PLATE 5.3 Sensory lab showing back of cubicles and prep area (Photo courtesy of Dr Gary Pickering, CCOVI, Brock University, St Catharines, Ontario.) PLATE 5.2 Sensory lab showing arrangement of cubicles (Photo courtesy of Dr Gary Pickering, CCOVI, Brock University, St Catharines, Ontario.) PLATE 5.4 Sensory lab showing ceiling red lights The flash used in taking the photo negates the actual impression of the use of only red light (Photo courtesy of Dr Gary Pickering, CCOVI, Brock University, St Catharines, Ontario.) PLATE 5.6 Double action cork screws, lever model of the Screwpull TM (Photo courtesy of Le Creuset, New York, NY.) PLATE 5.5 Double action cork screw, original model of the Screwpull TM and foil cutter (Photo courtesy of Le Creuset, New York, NY.) PLATE 5.7 Eight-bottle wine dispenser with refrigerated compartment for white wines (Photo courtesy of WineKeeper, Santa Barbara, CA.) PLATE 5.8 Spigot of wine dispenser (Photo courtesy of WineKeeper, Santa Barbara, CA.) PLATE 5.9 Individual dispensing unit and nitrogen tanks (Photo courtesy of WineKeeper, Santa Barbara, CA.) PLATE 5.11 Wine tasting glasses: left, Royal Leerdam Wine Taster #9309RL –229 ml, oz (ISO model), and right, Citation All Purpose Wine #8470 – 229 ml, oz (Photo courtesy Libbey Inc., Toledo, OH.) PLATE 5.10 Black ISO wine tasting glasses (Photo courtesy of Midnightsun Designs, Norrko¨ping, Sweden.) PLATE 5.12 Setup for assessing the effect of glass shape on the sensory attributes of wine (Photo courtesy of Drs M L Pelchat and J Delwicke, Ohio State University.) PLATE 5.13 Sparkling wine flutes: left, Royal Leerdam Allure Flute #9100RL –214 ml, oz; right, Citation Flute # 8495, 185 ml, oz (Photo courtesy Libbey Inc., Toledo, OH.) PLATE 5.15 z-Nose sampling machine (Photo courtesy of Electronic Sensor Technology, Newbury Park, CA.) PLATE 5.14 The Cyranose 320 electronic nose (Photo courtesy of Cyrano Sciences, Inc., Pasadena, CA.) PLATE 7.1 Grapes exposed to progressive drying in the recioto process: upper row healthy grapes; lower row of grapes infected with Botrytis cinerea (Photo courtesy Dr Usseglio-Tomasset, Instituto Sperimentale per l’Enologia, Asti, Italy.) PLATE 7.2 Storage location for the progressive slow grape drying for the production of recioto wines (Photo courtesy of Masi Agricola S.p.a., Italy.) PLATE 7.3 Cluster of botrytised grapes showing berries in different states of noble rot (Photo courtesy of D Lorenz, Staatliche Lehr-und Forschungsanstalt fu¨r Landwirtschaft, Weinbau und Gartenbau, Neustadt, Germany.) PLATE 7.4 Grapes protected with netting prior to harvesting for icewine (Photo courtesy of CCOVI, Brock University, St Catharines, Ontario, Canada.) PLATE 7.5 Harvesting grapes for the production of icewine (Photo courtesy of E Brian Grant, CCOVI, Brock University, St Catharines, Ontario, Canada.) PLATE 7.6 Dumping frozen grapes into press in preparation for juice extraction (Photo courtesy of E Brian Grant, CCOVI, Brock University, St Catharines, Ontario, Canada.) PLATE 9.1 Small wine cellar designed with sections containing twelve bottles (Photo courtesy of R Jackson.) PLATE 9.2 Pek Supremo wine preservation system (Photo courtesy of Pek Preservation Systems, Windsor, CA.) PLATE 9.3 Basic WHYNOT wine preservation system (Photo courtesy of Fresh Tech Inc., Tokyo, Japan.) PLATE 9.4 On design installed WHYNOT unit (Photo courtesy of Fresh Tech Inc., Tokyo, Japan.) ... this is a dubious assumption, it is safer to encourage tasters to cleanse their palate between each sample In contrast, olfactory adaptation may have an advantage For example, it may “unmask” the... music appreciation Critical tasting compares one or several wines against a real or theoretical standard In contrast, wine with a meal is intended to be savored as a liquid refreshment Although... mouth with wine before embarking on serious tasting Where tasters are unfamiliar with the characteristics of the Wine Tasting: A Professional Handbook, Second Edition Copyright # 2009 by Academic