P á g ina 1 de 1Document 08/12/2006htt p ://www.netlibrar y .com/nlreader/nlreader.dll?bookid=26300&filename=Cover.html Page iii Perfumery Practice and Princi p les Robert R. Calkin Perfumer y Trainin g Consultant J. Stephan Jellinek Dra g oco, Holzminden, German y A WILEY-INTERSCIENCE PUBLICATION John Wiley & Sons, Inc. NEW YORK / CHICHESTER / BRISBANE / TORONTO / SINGAPORE P á g ina 1 de 1Document 08/12/2006htt p ://www.netlibrar y .com/nlreader/nlreader.dll?bookid=26300&filename=Pa g e _ iii.ht Page iv This text is p rinted on aci d -free p a p er. Co py ri g ht © 1994 b y John Wile y & Sons, Inc. All ri g hts reserved. Published simultaneousl y in Canada. Reproduction or translation of any part of this work beyond that permitted by Section 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act without the permission of the copyright owner is unlawful. Requests for permission or further information should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wile y & Sons, Inc., 605 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10158-0012. L ibrar y o f Con g ress Catalo g in g in Publication Data: Calkin, Robert R. Perfumery: practice and principles / Robert R. Calkin, J. Stephan Jellinek. p . cm. ISBN 0-471-58934-9 (alk. paper) 1. Perfumes. I. Jellinek, Joseph Stephan. II. Title. TP983.C33 1994 668'.54—dc20 93-41844 Printed in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 P á g ina 1 de 1Document 08/12/2006htt p ://www.netlibrar y .com/nlreader/nlreader.dll?bookid=26300&filename=Pa g e _ iv.ht Page v CONTENTS Preface vii Part I Basic Skills and Techni q ues 1 What It Takes to Be a Perfume r 3 2 The Student Perfumer Toda y 10 3 The Techni q ue of Smellin g 15 4 Perfumer y Raw Materials 19 5 The Learnin g and Classification of Raw Materials 24 6 The Floral Accords 44 7 The Techni q ue of Matchin g 58 Part II Aesthetics and the Fundamentals of Com p osition 8 The Biolo g ical Basis of Aesthetics 75 9 The Structure of a Perfume 83 10 The Use of Bases 94 Part III Studies in Fine Fra g rance 11 101 P á g ina 1 de 2Document 08/12/2006htt p ://www.netlibrar y .com/nlreader/nlreader.dll?bookid=26300&filename=Pa g e _ v.html The Descent of Perfumes 12 Selected Great Perfumes 107 P á g ina 2 de 2Document 08/12/2006htt p ://www.netlibrar y .com/nlreader/nlreader.dll?bookid=26300&filename=Pa g e _ v.html Page vi Part IV As p ects Of Creative Perfumer y 13 Perfumes for Functional Products 143 14 The Challen g e of New Materials 177 15 Constraints to Creation 180 16 The Perfumer and the Market 196 Part V Scientific Fundamentals 17 The Chemical Structure of Perfumer y Materials 207 18 Chemical Reactions in Perfumer y 222 19 The Ph y sical Basis of Perfumer y 234 20 Ps y cho p h y sics and Perfumer y 243 A pp endixes A Structural Grou p s 253 B The Functional Grou p s 258 C The Aldeh y des 261 D The Ionones 267 E 269 P á g ina 1 de 2Document 08/12/2006htt p ://www.netlibrar y .com/nlreader/nlreader.dll?bookid=26300&filename=Pa g e _ vi.ht Glossar y of Perfumes, S p ecialt y Raw Materials, and Bases Biblio g ra p h y 273 Index of Perfumer y Raw Materials and Bases 277 General Index 283 P á g ina 2 de 2Document 08/12/2006htt p ://www.netlibrar y .com/nlreader/nlreader.dll?bookid=26300&filename=Pa g e _ vi.ht Page vii PREFACE Some thirty years ago the perfumery profession was shaken by the commercialization of the gas chromatograph. In lectures, roundtable discussions, and private conversation hot debates centered around the question whether this analytical tool, by greatly simplifying the separation of complex mixtures of volatile materials, would make the p erfumer redundant. The initial stir soon calmed down, to be replaced by a feeling that the gas chromatograph, while highly useful to the analytical chemist and to quality control, would have little or no effect upon the p erfumer's essential j ob, the creation of p erfumes. Today it is becoming increasingly clear that this business-as-usual second reaction was as misguided as the panicky initial response had been. For gradually but surely, the gas chromatograph—which soon expanded its scope of effectiveness by the successive introduction of capillary columns, the mass spectrometer, and quantitative head-space analysis techniques—has profoundly changed the p erfumer's dail y work. In reviewing the changes, we concentrate upon the most salient ones: the erosion of secrecy and the intensification of competition, the acceleration of trends and of the trickle-down phenomenon, the rise of safet y and environmental concerns, and the refinement of p erformance measurement. Just one generation ago perfumers' work and the operations of the fragrance industry were steeped in secrec y . Access to the book of P á g ina 1 de 1Document 08/12/2006htt p ://www.netlibrar y .com/nlreader/nlreader.dll?bookid=26300&filename=Pa g e _ vii.h Page viii formulations was limited to a few trusted individuals. Perfumers kept to themselves any insights about the composition of famous perfumes which they might have acquired by dint of extensive matching efforts. The notion of giving customers information about the formulation of perfumes the y were bu y in g was anathema. The fact that anyone armed with good GC/MS equipment and experienced in using this equipment can today, within days, find out a great deal about the formulation of any perfume has radically changed this climate. Formulas are still confidential, but the value of this confidentiality has been greatly diminished by the knowledge that, whenever it is to their advantage, customers and competitors can analyze most perfumes more or less precisely. The practice of giving formulas to major customers, either partially open with keys, or in toto in sealed envelopes to be opened under certain s p ecified conditions, has lon g since ceased to be shockin g . This erosion of secrecy has logically led to a climate of more intensive competition, with results that are changing the face of the fragrance industry. Where formerly the industry offered good profit opportunities even to those companies that operated at less than peak efficiency, and the old artisan style of operation could survive alongside with the upcoming high technology approach, today only those fragrance houses are profitable that are either organized for peak efficiency or have specialized in optimally serving a specific niche of the market. In the brief span of five years (1986 to 1991) the share of world industry turnover accounted for by the ten largest fragrance and flavor suppliers increased from less than 50% to about two-thirds, and the trend continues. It would be an oversimplification to say that this development is due entirely to the gas chromatograph, but GC/MS certainl y has p la y ed a ma j or p art in it. It goes without saying that the growing pressures for efficiency in the industry are having marked effects also upon perfumers in their work, limiting their freedom of choosing raw materials (for the sake of keeping inventories in check), requiring them to accept judgments by evaluation boards or consumer panels on the quality and market appeal of their creations, and forcing them to make optimal use of the very tool that has played a major part in bringing about their new working environment, GC/MS. The task of exploring the composition of successful and trend-setting p roducts in the market, which formerly occupied a major portion of the time of many perfumers, has become the work of specialized perfumer-chemist teams who conduct it more efficiently, leaving the perfumers free—but also forcing them—to concentrate their efforts upon the truly creative as p ects of the j ob. P á g ina 1 de 1Document 08/12/2006htt p ://www.netlibrar y .com/nlreader/nlreader.dll?bookid=26300&filename=Pa g e _ viii Page ix Gas chromatographic analysis today throws an increasingly clear light upon questions regarding the p urity of natural perfumery materials. As a result perfurmers can now, if they are willing to pay the p rice, work with reliably pure materials; if they choose to use a commercial grade they know, more p recisel y than in the p ast, the material's de g ree of p urit y . The history of perfumery has always been marked by evolutionary changes. Perfumers studied the p erfumes they admired and built upon them, replacing their structural components by related yet different newer materials, shifting their center of gravity, introducing new nuances. At the heart of this process there was the quest for mastering the model perfume, and the modifications were like commentaries upon a classical text, highlighting certain of their features and showing their continued relevance in a changing world of fashions and styles. Mirroring the arduousness of the task of matching the model, the rhythm of this process was slow. When Madame Rochas, a commentary on Arpège, was launched in 1960, it took its place within an evolution of floral aldehydic perfumes that had continued without a break since 1921, the year of birth of Chanel No. 5. Fid j i ( 1966 ) was a direct descendant of L'Air du Tem p s ( 1948 ) . Today the appearance of descendants of important fragrances is a nearly instantaneous process. The development and launching of mutations of and commentaries upon such perfumes occur at high intensity within very few years, even months after their launching, affecting not only the world of fine fragrances but also, thanks to the ubiquitous trickle-down phenomenon, deodorants and other toiletries, even laundry care and household products. As quickly as the trend has taken off, so q uickl y ma y it die down when the attention of the marketin g communit y shifts to other models. It would be wrong to attribute this change of pace to the GC/MS technique of matching; its origin lies, rather, in a transformation of marketing objectives. But in making near-instant matches p ossible, the GC/MS technique has provided the technical conditions that have made the dramatic s p eedu p of derivation and of trickle-down p ossible. The role that the gas chromatograph and mass spectrometry, along with a host of other high- p owered new analytical techniques, have played in intensifying public concerns about the effects of fragrances and fragrance materials upon human health is perhaps not immediately obvious yet fundamental. One generation ago public opinion about the wholesomeness of foods was dominated by ideas about main ingredients: Fresh fruits and vegetables are good for you, candy is not; proteins are good, too much P á g ina 1 de 1Document 08/12/2006htt p ://www.netlibrar y .com/nlreader/nlreader.dll?bookid=26300&filename=Pa g e _ ix.ht [...]... http://www.netlibrary.com/nlreader/nlreader.dll?bookid=26300&filename=Page_10.h 08/12/2006 Document Página 1 de 1 Page 11 acquire the necessary knowledge of raw materials and basic perfumery formulation to enable him or her to work successfully on new creations, and to establish a personal perfumery style However, the role of the perfumer today, in an industry that has become increasingly technical and market orientated, demands a breadth of knowledge and experience that... http://www.netlibrary.com/nlreader/nlreader.dll?bookid=26300&filename=Page_9.html 08/12/2006 Document Página 1 de 1 Page 10 2— The Student Perfumer Today Like any other creative art the art of perfumery depends upon experience and technique as well as upon inspiration Experience and technique can only be acquired by an immense amount of patient study and hard work, frequently beset by disappointment and frustration Yet for the talented and enthusiastic student the... 08/12/2006 Document Página 1 de 1 Page 3 1— What It Takes to Be a Perfumer The decision to embark upon a career in perfumery is usually taken between the ages of 23 and 27 It is a serious decision because the job requires several years of demanding and rigorous training, a training so specialized as to be nearly useless for anything other than a career in the chosen field A basic understanding of creative perfumery. .. physical separation techniques such as distillation and extraction Natural products have been used for many thousands of years as the raw materials of perfumery Entire plants, flowers, fruits, seeds, leaves, as well as woods, roots, and the resins they exude, are all sources of fragrance materials Similarly the scent glands of animals such as the civet cat and the musk deer have been used since early civilization... purposes, in time also came to be used in perfumery http://ezproxy.twu.edu:2103/nlreader/nlreader.dll?bookid=26300&filename=Page_19 10/12/2006 Document Página 1 de 1 Page 20 A clear distinction between medicine and perfumery was not drawn until around 1800 In the previous centuries the main purpose of pleasing and beneficial fragrances was seen as warding off and curing the illnesses caused by noxious... technology, quality control, research, and general management—but only within the rather narrow confines of the fragrance industry or of small departments within fragrance-using companies such as cosmetics and household products firms And the perfumery skills that are useful in these functions are the ones that are learned within the first half-year of a good perfumery instruction course Those who... balanced by the gregariousness needed for the giveand-take that is at the heart of a successful team effort; (2) the reliance upon the perfumer's own aesthetic intuitions in their pursuit of the creative effort, tempered by a sensitivity toward the expectations of clients and consumers who may have very different tastes; and (3) the high standards and perfectionism that it takes to create fragrances... perfuming chemically active functional products, and we therefore strongly recommend that perfumers, except perhaps those specializing exclusively in alcoholic perfumery, should have a background in organic chemistry and be familiar with the fundamentals of physical chemistry A knowledge of botany enriches the understanding of natural perfume materials and their production but is not essential to the... been conducted for some time, candidates for the course are screened in a test that includes an odor recognition test and a series of triangle tests In the odor recognition tests, candidates are asked to identify different odors presented on a smelling blotter The odor selections range from fruits, spices, and other food-related odors to the odors of leather, cigar boxes, and paint thinner The score is... perceive and to remember odors as well as odor awareness and articulateness Women nearly always outperform men in this test An exceptionally high score is not a prerequisite for the perfumery training course, though a very low score may well indicate serious deficiencies that may affect one's career potential The triangle test is a measure of odor discrimination The candidate is presented, in random order, . P á g ina 1 de 1Document 08/12/2006htt p ://www.netlibrar y .com/nlreader/nlreader.dll?bookid=26300&filename=Cover.html Page iii Perfumery Practice and Princi p les Robert R 10158-0012. L ibrar y o f Con g ress Catalo g in g in Publication Data: Calkin, Robert R. Perfumery: practice and principles / Robert R. Calkin, J. Stephan Jellinek. p . cm. ISBN 0-471-58934-9 (alk erosion of secrecy and the intensification of competition, the acceleration of trends and of the trickle-down phenomenon, the rise of safet y and environmental concerns, and the refinement