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Basics Fashion Design 04: Construction leads the reader through the essential stages of creating a garment, from pattern cutting and draping a mannequin, to finishing and haberdashery. Construction is the foundation of fashion design; it takes passion and skill to turn a two-dimensional drawing into a successful garment. This book guides you through the process, teaching you the theory, practical skills and techniques you need to succeed.
Chapter Seventeen Dressed Obsectives By studying the various draping steps in this chapter, the * Explore and define style lines and silhouettes over designer should be able to accomplish the following: the bust, hip, and waist to create folds, darts, * Manipulate the fabric and learn how to mold and pleats, and/or fullness shape the fabric on the dress form * Develop creativity and stimulate a variety of ideas * Maintain a smooth and easy-flowing design that * Enhance draping skills in handling pliable fabric to does not overwork a piece of fabric define a design and judge what designs are flatter- ing to a particular figure Bias-cut Slip Dress (— \ Because of the inherent stretchability designers, you should understand This dress is cut on the bias of a soft of bias fabric, designers such as fabric, which results in a closer fit Donna Karan used it to create new that if bias-cut garments are draped that stretches and conforms to the dress styles for the 1990s The bias- improperly, they will hug the body cut slip dress has won approval in and every imperfection will be movements of the body the retail market at all levels It can emphasized The slip dress is an alternative to } be slipped on over the head, which makes it easy to get into and out of, The bias cut slip dress is a sleeve- the bodysuit It may be worn alone _ and it is comfortable to wear As less styled dress with a neckline beginning above the bust It is held or with a soft cardigan, a tailored | in place with thin spaghetti straps blazer, or leggings Advanced Design Variations 278 [Bias-cut Slip Dress — Preparing the Fabric For the length and width ‘of the dress, measure and cut perfect 45-inch squares Drawa true bias line diago- ‘nally across the pieces of fabric Dresses a4 0 Bias-cut Slip Dress —Draping Steps Prepare the dress form Place pins on the dress form at the desired bustline Remove the bust level tape (bra) from the dress form SL 2 0 Pin the bias line of the fab- ric to the center front position of the dress form The fabric piece should extend at least 3 inches above the styled bustline Advanced Design Variations 260 Bias-cut Slip Dress —Draping Steps 0 Smooth, clip, and pin the 6 Clip, smooth, and fit the side seam down to the fabric across the neckline waistline As the side seam is style line Approximately 2 inches being fitted, a second slight flare will be created from the hipline in from center front, clip the fabric the middle of the princess panel from the top edge down to the Drape in the remaining of the side neckline style line Pin the neck- line style line seam at the clip seam below the waistline @ Create a slight flowing 0 Mark all key areas of the flare below the bust dress form of the center front panel Because the fabric is on the bias and is soft, the bust area can be Front Bustline Style Line Seam molded into a close-to-body fit As this bias drape is molded over the Waistline at Side Seam Place a bustline, a slight flare will be cre- waistline notch ated below the bust that extends Side Seam Lightly mark to the hemline Hem Follow the bottom of the 0 Smooth, clip, and pin dress form or a rung approximately 2 inches DO NOT REMOVE THE DRAPE from the first clip of the neck- FROM THE DRESS FORM line style line Mold and smooth the remainder of the bust area Continue to smooth the fabric across the neckline style line seam, over the bust, and toward the side seam 7) Pin the bias line of the fab- ric to the center back position of the dress form The fabric piece should extend at least 3 inches above the styled bustline Dresses 28] Bias-cut Slip Dress —Draping Steps 0 Smooth, clip, and pin the 0 Smooth, clip, and pin Q Drape and measure the fabric across the back neck- approximately 2 inches amount of spaghetti strap- line style line Approximately 2 from the first clip of the back ping needed for this design Add inches from center back, clip the neckline style line Mold and an inch for seam allowance fabric from the top edge down to smooth the remainder of the back the back neckline style line Pin the neckline area Continue to smooth neckline style line seam at the clip the fabric across the neckline style 9 Create a slight flowing flare below the back neck- line seam toward the side seam line style line As this bias drape 0 Clip, smooth, and fit the is being molded over the back side seam down to the neckline style line, a slight flare will be created at the princess waistline As the back side seam seam that extends to the hemline is being draped, pin it to the front side seam As the side seam is being fitted, a second slight flare will be created from the hipline in the middle of the princess panel Drape in the remaining of the side seam below the waistline Ô Match the back side seam to the front side seam, pin- ning and fitting the dress until the desired side seam shape is achieved 0 Mark all key areas of the dress form of the center front panel Back Bustline Style Line Seam Waistline at Side Seam Place a waistline notch Side Seam Lightly mark Hem Follow the bottom of the dress form or a rung Advanced Design Varéations 012 Me Slip Dress —Draping Steps True up the front and back dress Remove the fabric drape from the dress form True up ll seams, add seam allowances, \d trim excess fabric Pin the drape to the back drape Irn the finished drape to the form and check for accuracy, and balance Dresses 283 “Sculptured” Dress A “sculptured” dress has excess fab- bust and creates a smooth molded ric tucks or pleats around the bust effect in the waist area of the dress area that radiate from a shaped These multiple folds will hug, wrap, motif and blend to nothing at the and drape the body to produce a side seam The tucks or pleats distrib- sultry, sexy, and provocative dress ute and shape the fabric around the 0 Measure, along the straight of grain, 60 inches to 88 inches, which is the length for the front and back Snip and tear the fabric at this length Advanced Design Variations 284 “Sculptured” Dress — Preparing the Fabric Back Front Ệ Measure, along the cross- 60” grain, the width for the front and back a For the front drape, it will be Necessary to use the full width of the fabric goods |b For the back drape, measure from the center back to the side | seam, and add 8 inches Snip and ‘tear the fabric at this width The Measurement will be at least 18 inches S=———†8”——> *————— Width ofFabric ~———————* Draw the grainline for the front in the middle of the fabric lọce Draw the grainline for the back panel 10 inches from the edge Draw the crossgrain for the back panel 9 inches from the top of the fabric +